That scan that I mentioned is from my completely stock 03 Silverado, I am having problems with my 00 Silverado. I am not sure what the o2's read when I scanned the 00 Silverado, I wish I remembered. Thanks for the help, Knowing what the numbers mean make a big difference in how I attack this problem. The IGN DEG must be the timing, Am I right?

 

.88 up to .92 is a good range for a boosted set up. i dont remember the numbers for NA but it lower. .87 should be fine NA. maybe .83 to .88 or so would be my guess for NA.

with a wideband you can see the a/f ratio sweep 1 or even 2 full points and only get .02 change in the stock 02's. the only thing you can be certain of is if the stock 02's go under .500 then you are leaner than 14.7-1

 

This morning I drove up to visit Jesse @ wait4me performance and talked with him about my truck problems. I told him that I was going to get a dyno tune and he suggested that I buy EFI Live and a wideband gauge and then I can log while I drive my truck and send him the log via e-mail and and he will send me an updated tune based off of the information that I send him. Richard @ WCCH also suggested this to me on the phone and it sounds like a pretty good idea so I think I will do it and skip the dyno tune. While I was at his shop he backed off the timing about 4 deg, added some fuel, and firmed up the shifts a little bit more. I also told him about the low boost and he said that the belt may be slipping and then I remebered seeing alot of belt dust on the snout so maybe that could be part of the low boost problem? I am using the Metco 100mm idler pulleys w/ 3.1 pulley for the Radix, Should I buy a smaller belt or should I adjust the left idler pulley down? Right now the left idler pulley is about a little less than an inch from being all of the way up. I dont know if that make a difference or not. Does anybody know how much boost I should be seeing with my setup? I cannot drive my truck until the new Pacesetter Headers arrive, I am not impressed with the Hooker LT's because of the fitment issue. I also had a leak where the header flange bolts to the heads because the only way to bolt up the y-pipe was to leave the header bolts loose and then install the y-pipe and the tighten up the header bolts which caused the leak. If I would have tightened the header bolts first then the y-pipe would have not fit at all. As of right now I have 3 y-pipes and 2 set of headers that I am sending back. I should have kept the Pacesetter LT's that I had but I changed because I liked how the Hooker LT's had a flange at the collector to bolt up to the y-pipe, what a joke.

 

Maybe I'm mis-understanding, but you said the left pully is almost all the way up? Are you talking about the passenger side idler? If so the belt should be underneath right? The pulley should be all the way down....

 

Yea the passenger side idler pulley is what I am talking about. It can be adjusted up and down, right now mine is about an inch from the very top. I will adjust it down if that is where it needs to be. Thanks for the input.

 

Yeah, That belt should run under the idler, and after you have the belt on, you should still have a wrench on the idler to take as much tension off the belt as possible, then push the idler all the way down and tighten. In that position you should barely be able to get the belt off, and never be able to get the belt back on. It'll give you max tension, and more belt wrap.

 

Any updates have not heard anything in a while?

 

Richard

 

Thanks for asking, Next week I will have an update. My new Pacesetter LT's are going to be here on Monday April 24th. As soon as I install the Headers I will get to drive it again. I also bought EFI Live so hopefully I can get the problems with the tune figured out as well.

 

how well do the cal tracs work with the hotchkis kit? I have the tvs system on my joe gibbs and it doesnt get traction worth a sh$t. Cant wait for the results.