I'm glad I'm not paying for a trubo kit I have +$500 in my hot side piping right now including manifolds, and that includes the $450 it cost to have it coated. LMFAO!

But I agree... if you don't have a definitive plan going into it, and use new parts exclusively, then the price gets out of hand quick. Example- braided -8an feed line and -6 return to my tank would have cost roughly 225 just for the line. instead I ran stainless hard line, bent it myself with my tubing bender, and only paid 50 bucks. as a side benefit it fits like OEM and is just as durable.

be thankful you don't pay mercury marine prices, a bare block for a high perf 2.5 is $6800 bucks or more. Just a basic rebuild (not replacing pistons) is $3500 for rings, bearings and seals.

 

Reason I'm sticking with a 4.8L is because I have another 4.8L that I'm looking at building into a 366c.i. (+.040" over, 4" stroke, 6.125" rod). I can't justify buying a 6.0L when I could build something simillar for a bit more and it will be forged to handle some boost reliably. I basically was just weighing out my options for a turbo or turbos. After reading all these posts, I will likely go with a single s400 from majestic and just size the exhaust housing accordingly. For the price ($6xx) you cannot beat it. From what I have been told about the 1.10 a/r exhaust housing, it should spool up fine with a 4.8L or bigger. This 4.8L that is in my truck now is really only going to stay in there until I can build the other engine I have into a 366. I thought I would be safer working out the bugs with a relatively stock 4.8L then with something that is built. I drive this truck about 70 miles everyday to work and would still like to continue getting 20+ hwy miles/gallon. Once I build the other engine, I will stop commuting with it as much, and I will not expect fuel economy like that.

 

I'm very interested in your build -- I know the other thread in internal says a lot about the viability of swapping in the big crank, but I'd always heard that didn't work. I was very interested to see KB's post about the 4.8/5.3 -> 383 builds... You've hit the nail on the head over there with the cylinder wall thickness -- I think you have the same issues with .040 (you need to verify the thickness and integrity of each cylinder in the block when going over .030 or so from what I've been told -- not sure if the .040 is considered "safe" or not)

Hmm. A 1.10 on a 4.8 = fast spool? I'm kinda skeptical about that.

 

As far as I know, a crank from a 5.3L, 5.7L, 6.0L can be swapped into a 4.8L to achieve more displacement. As someone said on the other thread, I think there is problems when you go over a 4.0" stroke (which the stroker crank I'm looking at is a 4.0" stroke). Many people are telling me that boring the 4.8L/5.3L blocks to a ls1 bore (3.903") will not be a problem... but I am really having a hard time believing it without knowing cylinder wall thicknesses. If and when I do build this other engine, I will likely just go .030" or .040" over, because I'm pretty sure if people are running nitrous or any other types of forced induction on these engines after being bored to a 3.903" bore, then I shouldn't have anything to worry about. As far as the 1.10 a/r housing goes.. Majestic and Bullseye Power have both told me similar things on the s400 series turbos. They have said if I stick with a smaller displacement engine (such as a 4.8L) that a 1.10 a/r housing would do me well. They did say that if I were to do something like a L92 headed lq4 that a 1.32 a/r housing would be better for something like that. As far as I know, these two turbo companies are pretty reputable, and I have a hard time not trusting their professional opinons.