I've heard of several people running 15lbs of boost and 10's in the quarter still running the stock G80.

 

I won't be running 15#.
If I were those running 10's in 1/4, I'd have a Truetrac on standby.

 

Why don't you do a quick change rear, then you can have your 4.10's at the track and your 3.42's for the ride home

 

Ah No!

I think a cam change may be in order 1st.

 

Do it...9 inch ftw

 

Seriously, I think I wanna do a cam 1st. I looked in the stickies where Blown Chevy had em. I looked under cam thread; there was just a blank gray area.

After the cam, I'll pin the crank.

So, that said, I tried a search. Perhaps I didn't spend enuff time searching or does anyone know where a part/tools list is?

I've yet to read up on cam R&R in the GM manual. I know when I read on tranny install, I read thru 50-100pgs tho.
I'm not lookin to buy every J-tool known to man.

Cam Swap What do I need?

-I have my cam. It's a Comp 212/218. I have 918's & some 1.75 Comp rockers.

-I plan to get an ARP crank bolt 234-2503. ARP is reuseable & bulletproof. I could use a stock GM tq-yield bolt as well. If ya know that GM p/n throw it up even if I don't use it. I like options.

-I plan to get the Crane valve spring tool, either buy or borrow. I know some on here have it. A few have offered to loan it out if I pay shipping. Basic hand tools I have, are there any LS specific oddball tools I'd need to do job?

What are other parts I'd need?
Retainers, locks & valve seals, right?

After cam, I'll do crank pin kit, sorry I don't have to worry once Radix is on. I won't change cams unless I go to a LS6, GT2-3, GT7, or GT11. Maybe a Vinci Trucker, as some like AKlow have said how nice it is off & on boost. If I get a nice ET change w/. 212/218 cam swap, I'll stop swappin cams. At least for a while. I know they offer 2pc timing covers, but they're prolly $200 or so. It's only money, right. If I went that route, I assure I don't want a 2 pc. cover that leaks. Thoughts / helpful advice?

 

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23

 

Use a 5/16" wooden dowel rod to hold the lifters up, instead of the tool listed in the how-to.

 

Helpful, as always Roger.

I checked over that thread. Correct me if I wrong, but Metric gear wrenches to me are ratcheting box wrenches, so I think I have the common Metric sizes. My guess is the 24mm 1/2" Dr. skt is for the crank bolt. I noticed ARP is 1 1/16 12 pt.

I needed those seal p/n's, so those will come in handy. Those were my concern in my parts shopping list. I also was worried if I was gonna have to drop oil pan. Another source of leaks & ya gotta worry bout alignment. Unless ya have those 2 fancy tools.

J-41476
J-41480

 

I would recommend using a 3/8 dowel rod and sand 1 side down to a 5/16 thickness it holds the lifters more snug.

Gaskets that are recommended:
Waterpump, front cover, front crank seal, valve covers, depending on valvesprings could need valve seals.
Hardware:
Crank bolt, cam bolts
tools:
metric set 3/8 and 1/2 drive, torque wrench for both, impact 1/2, lifter holding tools, spring compressor, i used the long waterpump bolts for the cam install tool, compression test hose to apply air pressure to cylinders.
Extras
silicone to help hold the waterpump gaskets, coolant (might as well flush the system...your there), do and LOF. lube for cam