FFDP

iTrader: (2)

Well a shorter length should raise the speed slightly but I'd need a side by side picture of a RCSB and a CCSB to see how different the pieces are made. Either way the aluminum shafts are like tin foil with cardboard liners to reduce NVH and the steels shafts are made pretty much the same way.

The front shafts don't seem to ever have this problem as they are built differently.

A 3in thick walled steel shaft that's high speed balanced should be more than enough to handle speeds above 120-130.

FFDP

iTrader: (2)

Here is a RCSB truck I remember seeing on youtube, stock steel shaft on the dyno and it went boom.

Boost-freak

great numbers bro , now turn up the boost a little more

driveshaft in 4wd not a problematic like 2wd thats how i seen it a lot

Boost-freak

it's a lowered truck maybe it's not running in good angles

RySmDPT14

Now, are you referring to just 1500 and not 2500 models? I had over 15 pulls on my 2500 with a 10” lift in 37’s my drive shaft is aluminum.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

I think their critical speed is a bigger issue. I believe stock height trucks with speed limiters removed have had this happen at high speed too. I think a 2 piece conversion is the solution. 4WD trucks have a shorter DS with a higher critical speed.
http://spicerparts.com/calculators/d...rpm-calculator

Choda

iTrader: (1)

awesome power for only 8 psi. Hows the fuel system keeping up? Does your tuner think 10 psi will not be an issue?

I 2nd the driveshaft question. I a regcab 4x4 has the shortest driveshaft available. Along with being stock ride height. both are in favor of it being fine.

I have an nnbs ecsb 4x4. alum D.S. and been 150mph a dozen times. The shafts i see breaking are 2wd and mostly crew cabs also have lowered trucks.

Mercier

iTrader: (2)

On3 has told me repeatedly that the fuel system on the L83 will handle 550RWHP. Tuner did not seem to think there was a problem adding more boost.

Currently I've developed a massive exhaust leak. I either blew the header gasket, lost a V-bands clamp, or perhaps I forgot to tighten the aux wideband plug in the downpipe. It's in the shop cooling down now and either after work today or tomorrow I'll get in there and see what's going on. I am afraid it is likely something very close to the head as driving down the road it's stinging my eyes, windows up or down.

Thanks all for the concerns on the driveshaft. I will likely looks for a quality replacement unit once I get things sorted anyway. Sounds like affordable insurance.

I did get the BOV spring changed. I was curious what the actual spring pressure difference was and had a valve spring tester staring at me so here's the "-6psi" spring(looks to be plain/bare steel w/ black stripe) that came from Tial and the "Yellow" (-11psi) compared. I swapped to the Yellow but as I've done more driving, I noticed that my in-gear idle vacuum is more around -19in/hg indicating the plain/-10psi spring.

When I swapped springs, I noticed less hunting and less boost drop on shifts(was pretty bad before) but then almost immediately the exhaust leak hit. The plain spring should be in later today and I'll compare that one as well if I can get the exhaust issue sorted. Going to pick up a couple of extra manifold gaskets just in case at lunch.

Stiffer spring necessitated using the vice to get the BOV housing buttoned up.

I also am finding a few places where lines are rubbing. My strategy has been(last pic) to cut hose and split it lengthwise and tie it to the line that is rubbing, acting as a shield. Do you guys have a better hack for such a thing?

Mercier

iTrader: (2)

Just going to leave this here.. Frustrated and itchy from ceramic wrap. To be continued tomorrow.

TrickTurbo

iTrader: (12)

To gain more clearance there you might to get more aggressive on bending the line to get around the pipe. Try starting the bending nudging process closer to the engine area.

You can also use compression union fittings and added tubing if you want to make longer.