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Did your downpipe hit a brake line? Putting mine on now and it won’t line up to the turbo because of a brake line
That was a slightly embarrassing situation. I did bend that squarish loop of brake line that's right under the downpipe but after getting it all together, I *think* that may have been unnecessary.
I had the drivetrain supported by a couple of jacks under the rear of the transmission and transfer case since I had the mount out. One must have had some seal issues and very slowly let the back of the engine down. So the engine was at an angle, with the downpipe at same angle, compared to the brake line. Once it was all back together and the trans mount back in, there was significant room around that line.
That was a slightly embarrassing situation. I did bend that squarish loop of brake line that's right under the downpipe but after getting it all together, I *think* that may have been unnecessary.
I had the drivetrain supported by a couple of jacks under the rear of the transmission and transfer case since I had the mount out. One must have had some seal issues and very slowly let the back of the engine down. So the engine was at an angle, with the downpipe at same angle, compared to the brake line. Once it was all back together and the trans mount back in, there was significant room around that line.
Hope that helps.
mine is sitting on jack stands at ride height and I couldn’t get it to work without moving the brake line. Just unbolted it fromthe frame and bent it for now.
on the downpipe there are 2 bungs which did you install your wideband in and did you install another O2 in the other? My disc ON3 gave me doesn’t work so I’m winging it.
I belive I put the WB in the manifold and the passenger O2 in the DP. I believe this was on the recommendation of On3.
I had the same problem with my disc. I was allowed to download the videos but can't remember where from. PM me your email address and I'll shoot you a link to download from my Onedrive. BTW, it isn't instructions but videos of an installed setup for reference. It is still helpful.
I belive I put the WB in the manifold and the passenger O2 in the DP. I believe this was on the recommendation of On3.
I had the same problem with my disc. I was allowed to download the videos but can't remember where from. PM me your email address and I'll shoot you a link to download from my Onedrive. BTW, it isn't instructions but videos of an installed setup for reference. It is still helpful.
PM sent.
Seems off to have the WB in the manifold. It would only be reading the passenger side AFR and not drivers. Also the O2 would be reading both drivers and passenger in the downpipe. Hurts my brain. Might call Weapon X and see what they say so i only have to do it once. Btw i used RTV on the manifold and turbo flange. Fingers crossed, I do not want to pull the turbo back out. Those bolts suck!
PM sent.
Seems off to have the WB in the manifold. It would only be reading the passenger side AFR and not drivers. Also the O2 would be reading both drivers and passenger in the downpipe. Hurts my brain. Might call Weapon X and see what they say so i only have to do it once. Btw i used RTV on the manifold and turbo flange. Fingers crossed, I do not want to pull the turbo back out. Those bolts suck!
You are right. I told you backwards. WB in DP and pass O2 in manifold. 2nd O2 position in DP not used currently.
Thanks! Hope to be back on it soon. Actually clearing some shop space today to fit the powder coating/curing oven and the new air compressor. Finally decided to pull the trigger and just get something I always wanted and should be enough for anything I do in the future short of industrial/water blasting. Far physically larger than I expected though I should have known a 10HP compressor wouldn't be small. I absolutely cannot even nudge this thing by myself. Going to have to invest in a pallet jack now. 34CFM @ 175PSI and 38 @ 100. MUCH quieter than the outgoing "5HP" Husky (~11CFM @ 90PSI). Like work right next to it without being annoyed or fatigued quiet.
EMAX is Eaton, BTW.
A little tool ****:
(regular-sized milk crate right next to it for size reference. Don't know what I was thinking really but it was on sale for $2200 ordered through Home Depot with a 5-year warranty so it's here to stay for a while I guess)
Thanks! Hope to be back on it soon. Actually clearing some shop space today to fit the powder coating/curing oven and the new air compressor. Finally decided to pull the trigger and just get something I always wanted and should be enough for anything I do in the future short of industrial/water blasting. Far physically larger than I expected though I should have known a 10HP compressor wouldn't be small. I absolutely cannot even nudge this thing by myself. Going to have to invest in a pallet jack now. 34CFM @ 175PSI and 38 @ 100. MUCH quieter than the outgoing "5HP" Husky (~11CFM @ 90PSI). Like work right next to it without being annoyed or fatigued quiet.
EMAX is Eaton, BTW.
A little tool ****:
(regular-sized milk crate right next to it for size reference. Don't know what I was thinking really but it was on sale for $2200 ordered through Home Depot with a 5-year warranty so it's here to stay for a while I guess)
That is some compressor!
Great thread, I've read it through completely twice, now. I'm planning to turbo my 2011 2WD 4.8 Silverado and am in the "research" stage. Your thread has been EXTREMELY helpful and informative.
Jul 26, 2018 | 12:24 PM
