Hutch08

iTrader: (1)

Well today I had the "lowering kit" put back in the truck today.

Before with Drop Shackles + 2" Block, and stock keys cranked to level:



Current with Drop Shackles, block removed, lowering keys de-cranked:






Fender measurements are 18.5"/20" from axle to fender and 33"/35" from ground to fender. Previous was 22"/22", so I came down the obvious 2" from the block in the back and about 3.5" in the front.

I really wish I could of gotten the back lower, but I don't think anyone makes more of a drop shackle and I'm not about to start a flip kit or doing hangers.

I didn't have time to get it aligned today so I may try cranking up the front an inch to get rid of some of the rake.

On the plus side, the bald 275/55r20's clear with plenty of room so finding a set of take off tires should be pretty easy

Here's some more pictures, do you think these CV angles look okay?



Don't mind the oil, it was a PS hose that's been replaced:

AKlowriderZ71

iTrader: (22)

I've seen a whole lot worse CV angles live long & happy lives with 600+ hp.

Keep an eye on your upper ball joints. They don't always live long at those operating angles. When they need replaced, you can flip your upper control arm over, and press the new ball joints in from the other side. Huge improvement for the operating angles of the upper BJ's.

Hulign

Looks good!

I just got thru doing upper, lower arms, rear flip and C notch. My tie rod ends are at a pretty good angle but everything else looks great. I can't advise about the 4x4 stuff until I get the 4.10 geared front installed. But from what I have seen in my creeping around there are some running CRAZY angles up front without any issues so we should be good.

Don't dismiss going lower...seems to be an addiction. Although my skid plate is pretty low so I think I'm good for a while.

Enjoy!

Hutch08

iTrader: (1)

Yah, it's not so much of how low I wanna go.. it's how much do I want to spend to go low. I just picked this truck up cheap for a work commuter and I don't want to sink a ton of money into it. The previous owner already had all of the parts I used so I just swapped them in.

Only way to drop the back lower is either to go hangers or flip kit, both of those will give me more than the extra inch I require. I guess for now my only viable option is to crank up the bars a bit to level things out.

Hutch08

iTrader: (1)

Thinking about making up some leaf spring clamps to try and bring down the *** end a little more... I've heard they're good for .75" and don't overly impact the ride quality.

Hutch08

iTrader: (1)

UPDATE: Installed a set of homemade leaf spring clamps on the front of the overloads, gained an extra 0.75" of drop so now I'm sitting exactly 1" higher in the back.

Around town the ride doesn't seem any different, but the truck feels more "tighter" when going over railroad tracks or potholes.

Also brought it in for an alignment, a few of the alignment bushings were seized and couldn't be maxed out. So they set the Toe, drivers side camber is -0.1* but passenger side is -0.9*. Caster is positive a few degrees on both sides, more so on the pass side. I've heard thats actually a good thing for tracking straight and a little more on the right will help with the contour of the road.

The truck seems to drive straight, obviously the right front tire will probably wear a little on the inside but is it something I really need to worry about and get the bushings changed immediately?

FFDP

iTrader: (2)

It might show some minor wear after several thousands of miles the way it is.

If you rotate the tires like normal I bet you will never notice anything untill the tire is half gone if not more. Then edge wear will show more and by that time you wouldnt care and just get new tires when it worn enough.