Anyone else have this problem? Im on my third set its mostly my passenger side but my driver side blew today im thinking bad ground so im just going to cut the ground and connect a spade and connect to the frame somewhere i think...any input?

 

Bad ground won't cause the LED to burn out, it would be dim though. Burning out means too much voltage for the LED assembly. What kind of LEDs are you using? If it's the el cheapo Pilot LEDs then it's because they're designed for 12v (or rather 11.1) using the cruddiest resistors on the market, while your truck is sending 14ish volts to the DRL.

 

There xenon LEDs just blew another today there getting hot and blowing up. Is there some sort of in line volt regulator out there? I'd rather just fix the problem though

 

Ok, there's no such thing as a Xenon (a gas) Light Emitting Diode. Can you link me/show a picture of the light you are describing?

(unless the manufacturer name was Xenon, in which case it would be a subsidiary of Pilot and made in China)

 

4X Xenon Crystal White 6000K 3157 CREE 12 SMD LED Bulb Signal Brake Back Up | eBay

 

It's referring to the color. I have those LED's above and they are horrible in the GM DRL's. They are not designed for continuous use and more for backup lamps or turn signals. The Cree LED's create a lot of heat and just kills the bulb.

I use those T20 56 SMD LEDs in my DRL's just to have DRL's working and not have incandescents cook up the socket/housing again.

 

Yeah, that design is the cheapest mass produced SMD platform available. It doesn't have an internal driver (in most cases just two cheapest resistors) and is only intended for part-duty. For DRL you need to look at LEDs with internal drivers and metal cases, like the DX3's here (click to view site):




If you were to buy from that site make sure to ask if they have DX5LEDs in your desired color. They are brighter than DX3s and can be seen here on low brightness:

 

I'm going to put HIDs in instead

 

Cool info suburbazine , lookin good also