Lil stumpped.
#1
#2
If the plugs are too cold you will find carbon deposits on them. Tuning is really just spark (timing) and fuel. The only part of fueling that gets changed is wide-open throttle when the PCM is in open loop. Anything happening at part-throttle has to be timing.
In order to advance the timing and not get knock retard, you have to give a little bit of something back. Something like running 91 octane fuel, or installing a 180 degree thermostat, or putting on headers to better evacuate the combustion chambers. Even all of the above. If you don't take one of these step you could be getting enough knock retard to mitigate the improvements of the tuning.
I'm not a fan of hand-held tuners, or even mail-order tunes, but your times should not be exactly the same. That's rediculous and there is obviously a problem. The only advice I can give you has to be vague because you have no data to base it on. If you had a scanner I might suggest you log some PIDs, like RPM, MAP, LTrim B1+B2, TPS, and especially Timing and Knock Retard.
In order to advance the timing and not get knock retard, you have to give a little bit of something back. Something like running 91 octane fuel, or installing a 180 degree thermostat, or putting on headers to better evacuate the combustion chambers. Even all of the above. If you don't take one of these step you could be getting enough knock retard to mitigate the improvements of the tuning.
I'm not a fan of hand-held tuners, or even mail-order tunes, but your times should not be exactly the same. That's rediculous and there is obviously a problem. The only advice I can give you has to be vague because you have no data to base it on. If you had a scanner I might suggest you log some PIDs, like RPM, MAP, LTrim B1+B2, TPS, and especially Timing and Knock Retard.
#3
Originally Posted by James B.
If the plugs are too cold you will find carbon deposits on them. Tuning is really just spark (timing) and fuel. The only part of fueling that gets changed is wide-open throttle when the PCM is in open loop. Anything happening at part-throttle has to be timing.
In order to advance the timing and not get knock retard, you have to give a little bit of something back. Something like running 91 octane fuel, or installing a 180 degree thermostat, or putting on headers to better evacuate the combustion chambers. Even all of the above. If you don't take one of these step you could be getting enough knock retard to mitigate the improvements of the tuning.
I'm not a fan of hand-held tuners, or even mail-order tunes, but your times should not be exactly the same. That's rediculous and there is obviously a problem. The only advice I can give you has to be vague because you have no data to base it on. If you had a scanner I might suggest you log some PIDs, like RPM, MAP, LTrim B1+B2, TPS, and especially Timing and Knock Retard.
In order to advance the timing and not get knock retard, you have to give a little bit of something back. Something like running 91 octane fuel, or installing a 180 degree thermostat, or putting on headers to better evacuate the combustion chambers. Even all of the above. If you don't take one of these step you could be getting enough knock retard to mitigate the improvements of the tuning.
I'm not a fan of hand-held tuners, or even mail-order tunes, but your times should not be exactly the same. That's rediculous and there is obviously a problem. The only advice I can give you has to be vague because you have no data to base it on. If you had a scanner I might suggest you log some PIDs, like RPM, MAP, LTrim B1+B2, TPS, and especially Timing and Knock Retard.
Ill give some of that a try and ill get back to ya.
#4
K, say i install the lemp temp stat and and i check the plugs and theres no carbon, What then? Also when u have me doing this(If you had a scanner I might suggest you log some PIDs, like RPM, MAP, LTrim B1+B2, TPS, and especially Timing and Knock Retard.) What are good numbers to be in, what are bad numbers?
#5
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iTrader: (26)
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 7,294
Likes: 2
From: Behind the TIG welder
Things to watch
>>>Look at Long Term FT bank 1
>>>Look at Long Term FT bank2
This is how much fuel the computer is adding or subtracting.
>>>>Look at H02S bank 1 sensor 1
>>>>Look at H02S bank 2 sensor 1
This is the 02 voltage, you want it to be between 880 and 900 m-volts at WOT
>>>>Look at Knock Retard Make sure the value never goes above 0
>>>Look at Long Term FT bank 1
>>>Look at Long Term FT bank2
This is how much fuel the computer is adding or subtracting.
>>>>Look at H02S bank 1 sensor 1
>>>>Look at H02S bank 2 sensor 1
This is the 02 voltage, you want it to be between 880 and 900 m-volts at WOT
>>>>Look at Knock Retard Make sure the value never goes above 0
#6
Originally Posted by Wilde Racing
Things to watch
>>>Look at Long Term FT bank 1
>>>Look at Long Term FT bank2
This is how much fuel the computer is adding or subtracting.
>>>>Look at H02S bank 1 sensor 1
>>>>Look at H02S bank 2 sensor 1
This is the 02 voltage, you want it to be between 880 and 900 m-volts at WOT
>>>>Look at Knock Retard Make sure the value never goes above 0
>>>Look at Long Term FT bank 1
>>>Look at Long Term FT bank2
This is how much fuel the computer is adding or subtracting.
>>>>Look at H02S bank 1 sensor 1
>>>>Look at H02S bank 2 sensor 1
This is the 02 voltage, you want it to be between 880 and 900 m-volts at WOT
>>>>Look at Knock Retard Make sure the value never goes above 0
O2 voltage was ussally between that but some times it would drop to around 7 something. Knock retard didnt move at all. As far as the LONG TERM FT BANKS go, am i looking at them at idle or while in motion or a WOT?
#7
I assume you are using the Predator to monitor your numbers. Keep in mind that the Pred doesnt read as quick as say EFI Live or HP Tuners. Where the Pred may have changed numbers once every second the "Real" scanning software would have changed 10 times. If it didnt pick up any knock that's good. You should also be able to see your spark on there. What is it reading at WOT? Part throttle? It would be easier if you had another person to log rpm/spark/KR etc while you drive. Have them write it down and post some numbers up here. If you want to see the differences, unload the Pred program and scan the same info and compare the 2 tunes.You can PM me if you have questions on how to do it.
I still use my Pred to erase codes or monitor minor things when I dont have my laptop but, it doesnt log info anywhere near as well as my EFI Live. Try to find somebody that has tuning software to scan your truck.
I still use my Pred to erase codes or monitor minor things when I dont have my laptop but, it doesnt log info anywhere near as well as my EFI Live. Try to find somebody that has tuning software to scan your truck.
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#8
How do I change this text
iTrader: (26)
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 7,294
Likes: 2
From: Behind the TIG welder
700s are to lean IMO. But remember you are looking at narrow band 02 sensors and are not that accurate. but if you don't see any K.R...........
As far as fuel trim.
All the time. Thou they should go 0 if you are less than 0 at part throttle. The trims are correcting the a/f ratio. If it is positive the trims are added fuel. If you go WOT, the VCM remembers it needed more fuel at part throttle so it will add it during P.E mode. If it is -0 or lower the VCM will not pull fuel during P.E mode...... O ya, P.E (aka) Power enrichment is when the VCM is commanding a lower than 14.68 A/F ratio. There are a lot of parameters that effect when P.E mode runs.......
As far as fuel trim.
All the time. Thou they should go 0 if you are less than 0 at part throttle. The trims are correcting the a/f ratio. If it is positive the trims are added fuel. If you go WOT, the VCM remembers it needed more fuel at part throttle so it will add it during P.E mode. If it is -0 or lower the VCM will not pull fuel during P.E mode...... O ya, P.E (aka) Power enrichment is when the VCM is commanding a lower than 14.68 A/F ratio. There are a lot of parameters that effect when P.E mode runs.......
#9
I bought the Pred. for the performance tune as a bolt on, not really to moniter then truck. But the problem is that it didnt make my truck any faster. Thats the problem. But im asking what the numbers should be, so i can see if there anything wrong other then the tune. Im gonna get rid of it as soon as i add my stall and headers. My buddy told me to buy HP tuners. Plus im adding alot more stuff in the future, such as cam and heads and so on..... So by then the Pred will not be usefull from what i can see. Plus i plan on spraying it so from what i was told the tuner acts kinda like a chip and adds timing so it would det. under spray. But from my stand point the Pred tuner is a waste of money, it didnt add any horsepower from what i can see, all it did was get rid of my torque mang. and rasie my speed limiter. For $400 ,if u ask me thats a waste of money. Plus when i raised the speed-o limiter my speed-o got all jacked up. I cant even tell what speed im going anymore. Unless is some kinda wiered thing that my speed sensor went out when i installed the tune. Who knows. I still have to check some stuff. But ill keep you guys posted as i get further into the numbers u guys asked my about.
#10
well I found another problem the tuner gave my truck, it messed up my speedo, all this time i thought i had a bad speed sensor and it was the damn tuner. Well for now i took the tune out. Some time this week ill have my buddy ride with me and read the data for the stock settings and then ill plug the tune back in and write thoughs down too, and post em up in this thread and have u guys tell me what u think as i have no clue what im doing when it comes to tuning. But for now thanks for all the help.
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