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Efi live or get another tune

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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 07:42 PM
  #11  
bad72blazerct's Avatar
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so its either this cam or a new converter hmmmm let me talk to FTI and go from there. And then get an AUOTCAL
http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp-Cams/249/54-452-11/10001/-1
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Old Apr 13, 2011 | 02:37 AM
  #12  
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I dont think you should swap to a smaller cam. since towing is not your main concern. I believe what your feeling is not being used to pulling a trailer with a higher stall converter. It will take ALOT more throttle to get moving. I have a 3200 stall and I pull a goosneck that ways 7000 by its self. Let alone another 6000 pound truck or whatever i may be hauling on the deck. Plus my truck ways 6500. If you add that up that is alot of weight to get moving. The best thing you can do is make sure you have a big tranny cooler and a temp gauge. And just hammer down so the converter can start working asap instead of building heat while your truck remains motionless. As far as the degreeing. the main deal on that is so you know you got the grind you ordered and it is set in the icl you want. And most likely the cam company didnt screw up and you have an accurate grind. they grind a certain amount of advance in usualy so if you just line the dots up it will be pretty close to optimal according to there research. Just get a good tune and go from there. If you do decide to get efi live be prepared to read Alot, then ignor half of it after you figure out it dont make since. And yes you should have went with more stall.
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Old Apr 13, 2011 | 04:32 PM
  #13  
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From: Austin, TX
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Originally Posted by indigoblue
I dont think you should swap to a smaller cam. since towing is not your main concern. I believe what your feeling is not being used to pulling a trailer with a higher stall converter. It will take ALOT more throttle to get moving. I have a 3200 stall and I pull a goosneck that ways 7000 by its self. Let alone another 6000 pound truck or whatever i may be hauling on the deck. Plus my truck ways 6500. If you add that up that is alot of weight to get moving. The best thing you can do is make sure you have a big tranny cooler and a temp gauge. And just hammer down so the converter can start working asap instead of building heat while your truck remains motionless. As far as the degreeing. the main deal on that is so you know you got the grind you ordered and it is set in the icl you want. And most likely the cam company didnt screw up and you have an accurate grind. they grind a certain amount of advance in usualy so if you just line the dots up it will be pretty close to optimal according to there research. Just get a good tune and go from there. If you do decide to get efi live be prepared to read Alot, then ignor half of it after you figure out it dont make since. And yes you should have went with more stall.
I don't think what he is experiencing is from the converter since the factory one is about a 2400 and his is only 100 higher.
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Old Apr 13, 2011 | 06:16 PM
  #14  
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Its not all about stall speed of an empty truck. I really dont beleve you can compare a factory torque converter to an aftermarket one by stall speed when predicting how it will act with a trailer behind it.
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 05:47 PM
  #15  
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Im in the process of taken my fti converter out and sending it back so he can go through it. Im gona put the stock one back in since where i got my truck tuned insists its the converter. So that is what im doing tonight. I honestly think the fact that they didnt do a damn thing to the tranni is the problem the motor tune seems fine its just the tranni. I mean maybe the converters bad who knows. All i know is the stock ones going back in and the fti ones going back and im putting a flowmaster back in because this slp is way to loud without any resonators and just a cat.
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