kr1s

looking to wake up this 2003 5.3 off the line, I cant get it to just light the tires once I punch it, I've removed all of the TM, and anything related to pulling power out but I haven't touched the Timing tables yet, Any tips on how much to add down low? Engine is 100% stock and I'm using EFI live.
I've leaned out the A/F to about 12.3 ( This is actually on the WB) )

I've attached 2 Images. one is my stock timing table the other is my friends "tuned" 408

Now I know better than to just copy timing tables, which is why im asking you guys what you think thanks

Last Call

iTrader: (4)

I would log it first to see how much timing you are actually getting off the line. Those are just the base numbers.

smokeshow

iTrader: (16)

Why not just get it tuned properly?

kr1s

Yeah I need to get some logs of the WOT down low timing
I've seen some tutorials that say to start with 8-10 degrees and work your way up since the stock base timing table is very low

I wouldn't mind getting it tuned but I wanna see if I can get it on my own first

Lilbro

Who are you using?

smokeshow

iTrader: (16)

I tune my own stuff.

Well that wasn't exactly my point. If you're doing the tuning, do it properly. Adding timing isn't just a simple process of adding until you break the tires loose. There's going to be a specific value that the engine will operate best at. In some cases, too much will cost torque. In other cases (the ones we're more accustomed to), you start hearing or seeing detonation on the scanner. Over the stock calibration you might be able to squeeze in a degree or two. Or as I have seen in almost every stock engine vehicle I have tuned, it's already detonating and needs timing pulled out. Switching to a higher octane fuel can often afford you a few more degrees of timing, but it really depends on the engine.

kr1s

Ah I see what you're saying,
I'm running 93 motor is stock
I'm gonna be doing a MAF And VE correction since my LTFTs are a little off and I don't like how it likes to run leaner than what Im commanding (maf has been relocated and has a 3in exhaust all the way out to the muffler)
As for timing Im not getting any sign of detonation as far as I know, plugs look good (TR6) no knock on the computer
Just wanna wake up the truck down low before I take it to the track to dial in my WOT timing in the higher rpm.
I do have PE coming in at around 3,000 and the enrichment rate has been set to 1.0
I've been looking at denmahs tunes on HPT and they all start with 3-8 degrees down low

If you'd like I could PM you my current tune

LS1FREEK

iTrader: (1)

More timing and richer AFR usually get u the best launch

zblee

I am in the same boat as you on this. I have hptuners and i am new to it. I just recently installed my wideband so I am able to start making adjustments. First thing I did was calibrate the VE table in open loop (SD tuning) and then calibrate the MAF sensor. The last few days I have been working on the spark advance. I am doing street tuning as I do not have access to a dyno at the moment. I know this is not the best way because I may be advancing more than needed.

Like you mentioned, I too was unable to even squeak the tires with stock timing. I may be wrong but I wouldn't think that TM would have anything to do with launch since the TM isn't until you shift into 2nd,3rd,etc. First thing I did was setup my PE settings; PE ratios, TPS % to engage , etc etc. Then I started advancing my timing. Simply put; the process I go through is datalog and hit as many cells as i can so that i can see which cells in my spark table are being utilized and when. After a bit of data logging , I calibrate the MAF table until it is +/-1% error or less and remove any Knock retard as I go. After KR adjusted for and MAF looks good, I add 2 degrees to the cells that I am hitting in my logs ( I also modify the surrounding cells , give or take a couple). Then I repeat the process. Calibrate MAF and remove KR with a few datalogging sessions before advancing the timing again. I live in the middle of the city so it is hard to find areas that I can hit all the cells - almost had a couple of run ins with the cops . What I found I have had to do is put it in 2nd and get on the highway to get some of the higher rpm (3600+) / low load numbers (I guess I wouldn't normally hit these with normal driving anyways - so maybe this is not needed).

I have since been able to screech the tires for a second . After reviewing my logs and watching where the cells are hitting as I floor the throttle from a stand still - I see that I still have more timing to advance to help out on my punch. I can already tell a difference in how hard it pulls (besides the tire spinning briefly ) up and into 3rd. I am about to get my tranny built to support future mods and getting a high stall installed so this will make it more fun and shouldn't have an issue with not spinning tires with 3600 stall (actually will probably end up being an issue - no traction). I then can take out all of the TM as the tranny will have no issues handling the power

I have a 2003 5.3l silverado as well and was sad that it wouldnt even burn out when I floored it , even after installing long tube headers ( actually this was probably part of the problem , im guessing there was low-end torque that was lost with these).

Well take this with a grain of salt because I am completely 100% new to all of this. I am open to suggestion for modifying my process/method for this as well...

_Zblee

zblee

This is really what you should take from my response to answer your initial question. Since I am working on the same thing this is what I am going to be doing as well. Log a few WOT launches from a stop and then look at the log and see which cells are getting hit (rpm x airmass) when you are first taking off. these are the cells that can be advanced to boost power (assuming PE is already setup correctly). this is what I am going to do this evening at least.

_Zblee