Ok, have a 99 k1500 (old body style) with ht383e and stage 2 4l60e with shift kit and 2100 stall converter from monster perfomance transmission.
The thing is, i need a tune. Im about to put lt headers and 1.6 roller rockers on it just dont know what to use as far as tuning. I hear some like efilive and hptuners can tune 96-97 or 99 and up...idk. just lookin for info. I also want to delete rear 02 sensors and egr so somethin that can do that and give me more power would be nice
Thanks

 

Ok first off HP Tuner can only tune 98-00. Second if you have not taken the heads off that engine you will need to. A 1.6 ratio rocker will take that came to a .459/.481 lift which is to big for the springs that come on that head. With that said the heads will have to have the valve guides cut down for the bigger spring and the pushrod holes will have to be made larger for the 1.6 rockers... Hope this helps you out... O and welcome to the site I see its your first post....

 

Thanks, i was goin to swap the valve springs too...sorry bout that. I was reading this thing about the ht383 and its pretty much the same motor as the ht383e right? Just ones carbed and the other is efi. Well i was goin to use the lt4 valvesprings cause it says they go in place of the stock ones.
HT 383 Crate Engine Test - Tech Article - Chevy High Performance Magazine

 

Sorry that will not be correct you will have to cut down the valve guides otherwise the bottom of the retainer will beat the seal up..... And if you dont take care of the pushrod holes the pushrods will rub the head and eat the pushrod up.....

 

what about running offset valve locks seem to remember that on the vortec 350 motors should let you squeeze some more room with out machining. as far as tuning I would go with a 411 pcm swap and then pick up efi live or hp tuners an get to reading. what part of tx you in?

 

Im outside corpus christi, tx. I was thinkin of doin the 411 swap but i dont think i really think i was goin to need to do that much with the tune. Just wanted to delete the egr and fix the air/fuel for the 383, if not its kinda like i got it for nothin lol. I just thought i would go with the 411 if i decided to swap a bigger cam later on.
And on those offset valve locks... what else would i have to do?? They just go on the vortec heads??

 

yea they take the place of the original locks and raise the retainer a little. .050" I believe is what they are. I would think that the 383 would need some fuel tuning coming from the 350. Biggest thing that got me to do the 411 swap was the rev limiter on the factory pcm is low.

 

While you can use the offset locks to your advantage to do what your wanting to do without having to machine down the guides, you will not be able to use them successfully with any of the springs you’ve mentioned thus far. Factory SBC springs have an installed height of 1.750”, whereas the LS style engines utilize an installed height of 1.800”. So by using a +0.050” lock/keeper, you can install Beehive springs originally designed for an LS engine. Comp 915’s are a direct drop-in, while 918’s may or may not drop-in depending on machining variances of the heads in the guide area. The I.D. of the 918’s are slightly smaller than the 915’s and may interfere with the O.D. of the spring locator section of the guides on some if not most stock Vortec heads. The part number for the +0.050” locks from Crane is # 99095-1 and is coded yellow. There is an additional component you will need to run LS style Beehives in a SBC designed with 11/32" valve stems, you will need to use a hybrid retainer. Comp makes such a retainer Part # 787-16.

Now if you use Comp 915 Beehives that are designed for LS1's at an installed height of 1.800", instead of the factory SBC height of 1.750" you can obviously run more lift without the retainer hitting the valve guide or seal.

However, just as NEGEN said, when installing 1.6 ratio rockers in a stock Vortec head, you will most likely need to drill out the pushrod holes to keep the pushrods from rubbing and wearing through. That being said, if you have to pull the heads to drill out the pushrod holes for extra clearance, you may want to just go ahead and machine down the guides for the more typical posi-lock type seals. You can either have your local machine shop perform this step and set-up your valve-springs for the proper installed height and spring pressures or you can pick up the guide tool through someone like Summit Racing to machine them yourself. I typically use the Beehive spring/retainer/lock trick when utilizing larger camshafts with traditional 1.5 ratio rockers, where you may not want to remove the heads.