The adapter bar is probably a good idea and labor saver. I just pulled the whole plate and welded some nuts to the back of it.

 

My transmission is all mounted up! I have to get a driveshaft and I have to get the pedal in and working.

I think I can tune it to drive with the stock shifter position switch set to neutral, at least temporarily.

I got the hole in the floor spot on! It might be too tight if there's much drivetrain movement. My stock crossmember worked without modification!

Oh yeah, I need fluid. Any suggestions? I know I need some kind of special fluid for this specific transmission. GL4 or GT4 rated or something.
Edit, after reading the internet I decided not to go with any substitute for the correct fluid. I got mine from a Dodge dealership. They wanted $30 a quart which seems about average but they had quoted me for the wrong stuff when I called them and they felt bad so they sold it to me for about $20 a quart.

 

It should start and run with the neutral safety switch in the N position. Or even P. You might notice some strange behavior off idle or if you let it idle down the road in gear. It will run and drive though.

It looks like you have the short console which should make the shifter part pretty easy.

 

The shifter came out good. That's in. The driveshaft has been ordered and should ship today. I cut the hole in the firewall for the pedal bracket. That wen't well. I test fit the bracket in there. It's tight! I'm only going to use the two holes on the bracket. I know it's going to be frowned upon but I don't think it'll be a problem. I think I could shove the bracket in there and hook it up without any bolts and it would work. That's how tight it fits in there. I almost couldn't get it back out. Now, once I get my nut strip and install the pedal, I only have one major problem. My y pipe doesn't fit under the transmission. I carelessly overlooked that when considering the cost of this swap. I'm going to have to go get some exhaust work done. That's going to set me back.

 

I made my nut strip out of 1/2" x 1" aluminum bar stock. I took a 3" piece and drill and tapped it to m10x1.5. I drilled an extra hole at the top and tied a piece of twine to it. Then I put that thick two sided tape on the front of it. I had to cut a slit in the plastic above where it slides in because it would have to bend to slide in the top of that bracket. So I forced it in and held the string so that I could start the bolts to pull the strip forward so the tape would stick to the bracket. Here are a couple of pics to try to explain:

 

that will save a lot of work if it pans out!

 

The bracket seems to work fine. How did you deal with your exhaust? Did you have a custom y-pipe made? Does it cross under the transmission or after the crossmember?

 

I'd have to see pictures of where your exhaust is hitting.

I have Kooks pipes on a ball joint. I put some metal spacers to bring the tranny up a hair. This didn't really work. So I cut the Kooks pipe. Pushed it down a bit. I then welded in a section to make the pipe rise more. I had to shape a bit around at the connection point. Took about a day to re-work the pipe. The only thing I don't like is that the pipe is a bit lower than the cross member.

 

HPTuners tune repository is down while they upgrade their site. Do you still have your tune file, or at least the stock tune file? Maybe they are the same OS. Mine is 12587603. Can I borrow that?

 

The only file I have (see attached) is in efilive format. Maybe there is a conversion or you can have someone with efilive flash it and then download it back into hp tuners?

Not sure if there is any difference in the 4x2 and 4x4 versions. Worked for me though.