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Old Sep 29, 2013 | 07:50 PM
  #21  
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Looking good
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Old Sep 29, 2013 | 10:13 PM
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Hmmmm.....I think there's a change in plans. I really like the satin black look, going to call tomorrow and see if the local paint supplier has some satin black single stage. That solves the problem of having to sand and reapply more primer after the 3 day re-coat window passes, and I can continue to do individual panels as I have time. It also cuts the cost way down.
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 05:48 PM
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First primer/surfacer coat after spraying guide coat:

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First coat sanded down, ready for second coat:

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Second surfacer/primer coat on, guide coat sprayed again. Currently waiting for this to cure enough so I can hit it with some 400 grit, then on to the color coat!

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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 08:21 PM
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Lookin good dude. The cyber gray will look sick, that's what color our equinox is.
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 08:59 PM
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Either way you choose, satin black or cyber gray will look good.
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 09:28 PM
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Question on the 2k urethane primer...I applied three coats the first time over the epoxy primer, the blocked with 220, cleaned, and applied two more coats after. They went on pretty thin. On my final sanding, it rubbed through to the epoxy in a few places, and there are a few other places where it's still there but thin enough to be transparent (can see the black epoxy underneath). Do I need the urethane primer to be solid before topcoating it, or am I ok as long as I didn't go down to the bare metal?
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by thunder550
Question on the 2k urethane primer...I applied three coats the first time over the epoxy primer, the blocked with 220, cleaned, and applied two more coats after. They went on pretty thin. On my final sanding, it rubbed through to the epoxy in a few places, and there are a few other places where it's still there but thin enough to be transparent (can see the black epoxy underneath). Do I need the urethane primer to be solid before topcoating it, or am I ok as long as I didn't go down to the bare metal?
As long as you didn't go past the epoxy. Depending on what products your using you can usually go over the top a sealer as a wet on wet application prior to paint.

I know most of the paint systems used to be that way. The Epoxy could be used as a sealer by adding more reducer.

I am not sure what you're using though. BASF, PPG, Sikkens, all used to be like that. I haven't used any of the new water borne paint products though.
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 04:00 PM
  #28  
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I'm using PPG Shopline. I have two small dings that the guide coat exposed yesterday that I need to fill, then I'm going to shoot another coat of epoxy thinned with acetone (hopefully will go on a little smoother), then on to the color coat.
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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 09:51 PM
  #29  
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Well I cleaned the driver's bed side today, shot it with another coat of epoxy reduced with acetone, waited for it to flash off, then shot color. I'm going to have to rent some paint booth time or maybe just pay someone to shoot it for me, my garage just isn't near clean enough to do this. Might have gotten orange peel too, will have to see what it looks tomorrow after drying. I'm actually wondering if my primer coats were too thin, each one of them had quite a bit of texture to them like the paint hit and dried before it had a chance to flow together.

I think my plan now is to go ahead and prep the rest of the body, one section at a time, then shoot them with epoxy and leave it at that until the whole thing is done and I'm ready to paint it all in one shot. Then I can sand it one last time and haul it on down to the paint booth.

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Old Oct 1, 2013 | 10:02 PM
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Doesn't look bad in the pic. If your primer was drying as it hit or before, it sounds as if it may have been to heavy, or to much pressure. Did you go with single stage or base clear ?
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