What thickness of metal did you use on the mounts? I'm debating on doing the same thing on my truck since I have mine apart at the moment.

 

The mounts were done by KBracing. The metal he used was very thick, probably almost 1/4" and fully welded. Just finished getting them in, my old driver's mount, the rubber had completely separated. Since my truck is lowered 8" in the back and with full 4" exhaust out the back, you could imagine excessive engine/exhaust movement is not ideal. A couple people on here are running welded stock mounts with very good success and use of solid mounts in performance apps is well documented. I dont mind if it ends up roudier, since I'm now DD'ing a Civic lol.

 

Is that the only place they are reenforced, on the top at the engine mount? I thought others were using plates on the sides tieing the engine mount and frame mount together. Just curious because I am going to do the same thing to mine before putting the engine back in.

 

Nobody is welding the frame mount and engine mount together, to my knowledge. These are purely solid motor mounts. I've seen people claim that the rubber still does absorb some of the vibrations as well which is a plus. Dirttackracer81 welded his up with the mounts in the truck so they had to be on the side. Where mine are welded faces the engine block. With the mounts installed and nobody can tell they are modded whatsoever.

 

The truck once again lives and moves under its own power!

The welded solid stock motor mounts are great, honestly there's no increased vibration over stock.

Trans temps with the TruCool averaged 134 with a high of 142. No more nasty noise from the tranny tunnel area as of now. I have a feeling I was probably overheating the trans before even though the fluid was pristine and not a single piece of debris in the trans pan. New filter and now I'm back rolling. Hopefully I can get away with this 80e and just stick a shift kit in it versus $3k for a built one.

I'm sure the cooler temps are helping (its 75* versus 100* last time I drove the truck) and I have new plugs gaped at .024" but it's making silly power now on 12.3 psi. First time I hit it, the tires lit up and I was shocked to see I had barely hit 60% TPS when I looked at the computer LOL, though I was at WOT.

Gonna start experimenting with gas/E85 blends as well to get more out of my Walbro 450 pump. AFRs are creeping up top so I'm suspicious the pump is near maxed out. 81% IDC on the 1000cc injectors. I'm curious if a 50/50 or even a 30/70 mix of E85/gas would let me tap out this 475...apparently it's only good for around 16-17 psi on a 6.0 before it turns into a hair dryer...

 

Just read the whole thread, good stuff!

Not sure if somehow I missed it (??) but I never saw details on what you did after you dropped a valve?? Did you swap motors or what?
Also, what heads/cam are you running?
Anything you'd do differently after looking back when boosting slightly higher c/r 6.0?


Have any more photos/details on the C5 coolant tank?
I like that a lot, and I already have the OE aux. battery tray there for a flat surface to mount to.

 

Here's the story, miraculously, the valve actually never dropped. I'm not sure how though because the spring was completely snapped in half. Just got very lucky. The valve did kiss the piston slightly and I just cleaned up the sharp edges with some fine sandpaper and went on my way. So I'm still running the stock bottom end LQ9.

Cam is a 222/226 113 lsa, heads are some stage 1 317s no chamber work. The top end and valvetrain were obviously spec'd for N/A use but have worked pretty well with the turbo. I do plan to switch to a smaller cam (probably an isky 212 or 215) mainly because it will be easier on the valvetrain. Obviously, the smaller cams work well in turbo setups as well and can only help with out of boost torque and turbo spool up.

As far as the higher compression goes, I probably would have dropped it down if I didn't have access to E85. That's probably giving me somewhat of a safety blanket and I like not having to deal with meth. Ethanol obviously has it's downsides as well (tough starting, terrible gas mileage).

The C5 coolant tank is pretty straightforward. I just made a little bracket to hold it down and that's about it. The 97-99 tank has the coolant sensor built into it and I specifically bought this model because I figured it would have the same plug as the truck harness (looked the same in pictures) but the truck plug doesn't fit. It would be easy enough to get the corvette plug and splice it into the harness but I just tuned out the coolant light in the tune.

 

Nice luck!
I lost a 5.3 awhile ago to a broken comp 918 garbage spring. Were very low mileage too with a tiny cam... they offered me a discount coupon on another set hahaha F that.
Just curious, did you ever contact PAC about the broken spring just to see what they would say? I live about 30min away from them...
I have some 1518's in my Sierra.

So are you running duals now? Which ones?


Oh, and are you on a stock torque converter?

 

No I never contacted PAC. I place more blame on myself than the spring itself for it breaking. I ran it hard for 3 years N/A, the cam has nearly .600" lift and the springs are good for .610". The addition of boost did them in. I've since switched to Tooley dual platinums Ti retainers.

I was on a stock torque converter until my trans let go. It will be going in the garbage unless whoever buys my core wants it. I currently have orders on a billet triple disk converter and a built 4L80 which will have every upgrade sans a billet intermediate (main) shaft. Stocker is good for 1200 rwhp supposedly.

 

Yeah understandable.

I've been eyeballing the BTR's recently too. Probably should replace my tired prc's sooner than later.


I guess I missed where your trans went too...?
80e??
Damn... just something else on my list to do but cannot afford... 4wd 80e's seem to be pretty hard to find from 2000 or newer...