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Old Nov 6, 2017 | 04:48 PM
  #151  
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Originally Posted by walledition
i was planning on using the same ones if they look good, im glad u bring this up, i will keep the pinion as it it aswell, iŽll look that up in your build thread, btw did u use new bearing or the ones from the stock g80?

thank you
No the carrier bearings for the Eaton Trutrac are different, you can't reuse the originals (nor would you want to). You'll need to do a search to find out if that's the same for the Eaton posi.
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Old Nov 6, 2017 | 04:55 PM
  #152  
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Originally Posted by lxcoupe
No the carrier bearings for the Eaton Trutrac are different, you can't reuse the originals (nor would you want to). You'll need to do a search to find out if that's the same for the Eaton posi.
ok iŽll look that up

i just went through all you thread titles and cant find one differential related, how is it called? you have many threads lol
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Old Nov 6, 2017 | 05:02 PM
  #153  
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Originally Posted by walledition
ok iŽll look that up

i just went through all you thread titles and cant find one differential related, how is it called? you have many threads lol
Click on the link in my signature
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Old Nov 6, 2017 | 07:57 PM
  #154  
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Originally Posted by lxcoupe
Click on the link in my signature
Found it but yours is a 10 bolt and mine is a 14 bolt, this is the first time this rear end has been open and it only had 1 shim on the left side, right side u can screw to adjust :s












This pin shows wear on both sides, does anyone know why?
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Old Nov 10, 2017 | 03:15 PM
  #155  
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I got new bearings and the gear ring on my eaton LSD and its time to get this together, im thinking on using the stock thick shim on the left just like it came and paint the gears to see what it looks like, my question here is: how tight does the right side needs to be since i can screw it left and right?


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Old Nov 10, 2017 | 03:28 PM
  #156  
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Painting the gears and checking the pattern is only 1/2 the job. You also need to set backlash. I set mine up at .006" like I do with all used gearsets. You don't want to go any tighter than .006" but no looser than .008".

The carrier needs to be somewhat snug in the housing. You can't just slip it in and out by hand. A big dead blow hammer and pry bar are your friend since you'll probably end up installing/ removing the carrier in and out at least 5-10 times.

You have a dial indicator with magnetic base?
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Old Nov 10, 2017 | 03:44 PM
  #157  
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Originally Posted by lxcoupe
Painting the gears and checking the pattern is only 1/2 the job. You also need to set backlash. I set mine up at .006" like I do with all used gearsets. You don't want to go any tighter than .006" but no looser than .008".

The carrier needs to be somewhat snug in the housing. You can't just slip it in and out by hand. A big dead blow hammer and pry bar are your friend since you'll probably end up installing/ removing the carrier in and out at least 5-10 times.

You have a dial indicator with magnetic base?
sounds good, iŽll make sure to use paint and a friend is gonna lend me a dial indicator, i used a small screwdriver to adjust the right side, i didnt get it very tight with a small screwdriver but that should probably work then, iŽll keep you posted as i go

thank you
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Old Nov 10, 2017 | 05:28 PM
  #158  
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Ideally, you would have checked backlash before you took this apart and then verified that it didn't change after installing the new Eaton carrier.

The shim on the left is what is going to set your backlash and the spanner on the right is what is going to set your carrier bearing preload. If that's the only shim you have, all you can do at this point is put some preload on the carrier, measure your backlash, paint the gears and check a pattern.

Good luck and cool build btw!
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Old Nov 11, 2017 | 06:46 AM
  #159  
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If all you are doing is changing the diff, you do not need to run a pattern because you have not manipulated the pinion. It would have been ideal that you checked your backlash before you took everything apart so that you could set it up to the same backlash when you put it all together with the new differential. I don't know what year this axle is, however if it is 2000 and up, it will have a 2 cut gear, requiring a backlash of 0.003" - 0.006". Try and aim for the middle. As for that adjuster you will want to get it tight. Use a nice long hardened punch that you can put in the holes. When tightening, place one hand on the punch right next to the adjuster ring and the other hand on the end. Try and hold the punch perpendicular so that you don't bend the end of it while tightening. Get it as tight as you can like this, and then use the punch and a small hammer to tighten the ring to the next set of holes.

HTH.

Last edited by axisT6; Nov 11, 2017 at 06:52 AM.
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Old Nov 12, 2017 | 05:41 PM
  #160  
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Thank you for your answers, LSD is bolted in but im still waiting on the tool to check backlash before i seal it, i read eaton doesnt recommend synthetic oil for some reason so i went to a local lube change on got me some mobil mobilube HD 80-90
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