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Roll Pan Install

Old Apr 20, 2009 | 08:15 PM
  #61  
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Pan looks very nice man. IMO I would tuck those exhaust tips up tighter to the bed so you dont see them when looking at the truck from the back or side. Just my opinion
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Old Apr 20, 2009 | 08:21 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by 8ALTNG
Pan looks very nice man. IMO I would tuck those exhaust tips up tighter to the bed so you dont see them when looking at the truck from the back or side. Just my opinion
Some point in the future I'm going to completely re-do the exhaust. Can't easily do that now with where they are at from the old setup. I'm all about tucking them up and out of sight but don't want the exhaust burning up the pan..... don't know where that point is.
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Old Apr 20, 2009 | 08:32 PM
  #63  
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I c. I used to have my exhaust turn down 3 inches after the axle. Truck looks good man. almost makes we want to do a roll pan myself
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 03:29 PM
  #64  
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I love the way your truck looks with that rollpan. I'll probably never do this because of the cost, labor and time but damn it looks good!

I especially like the fancy plate relocator. That's snazzy.
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 03:33 PM
  #65  
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Would it have been possible to flip the mounting plate over so your plate just went down instead of up? Or maybe I'm just a blithering idiot.
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 03:42 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by ridnrimz
I love the way your truck looks with that rollpan. I'll probably never do this because of the cost, labor and time but damn it looks good!

I especially like the fancy plate relocator. That's snazzy.
Thanks so much. I also like the looks much better. Yep the snazzy part hooked me also. If I had it to do over I'd just do a plan flip down plate and risk a ticket running without the plates showing.

Originally Posted by larsy87
Would it have been possible to flip the mounting plate over so your plate just went down instead of up? Or maybe I'm just a blithering idiot.
Well you got me thinking about it... but no. Flipping it wouldn't work. Well at least not with a drop down hitch. Picture it.... the license plate and ball would want to occupy the same space.
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 04:23 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by KySilverado
Thanks so much. I also like the looks much better. Yep the snazzy part hooked me also. If I had it to do over I'd just do a plan flip down plate and risk a ticket running without the plates showing.



Well you got me thinking about it... but no. Flipping it wouldn't work. Well at least not with a drop down hitch. Picture it.... the license plate and ball would want to occupy the same space.
Yeah, I was trying to figure out if the drop down would happen before or during the gooseneck on the hitch.

Sick pan either way, uber bad ***.
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 05:16 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by Wilde Racing
damn, looks good.... I want a roll pan really bad now...
See, Roger, you're inspiring everyone. Now when guys from PT go to a truck show & put pans on, passersby will ask, why? Cause Roger did.
They'll say, who? If I have to explain, you wouldn't understand.

Originally Posted by KySilverado
...Worried about getting the body work right. I'm going to have to use some filler to get it smooth. Worried about that.

...The grinding I'm talking about is to the top of the drop J piece. Take some off it to get it to clear the bottom of the plate.
I did a rollpan for a '91 S10. Never put it on. Still have it to this day, for anyone interested pm. Anyway, I spent a ton of time making bodywork perfect. On a rollpan you are dealing w/ the curve of pan while tryin to keep filler straight from L-R. Straight as an arrow, too bad my DD is now my Silvy.

When the pan is made, the fabricator when putting curve that gives pan shape, disrupts sheetmetal, while the license plate recess is welded in causes issues. A brake used to strengthen ends causes further metal creases that demand attention.

Roger, sorry for rambling. You may not wish to go as nuts as I did, but I was taught to finish to the highest standard.
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 05:40 PM
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Oh yeah, as for hanging tailgate. Yes, you can do that method too. Lot of weight hanging from some thin wire. If you do wire, use the strong stuff. Kinda comes down to freedom of movement around item being sprayed. As I stated earlier, sawhorses work wonders. Only problem is, you want them to support w/o tipping. You want the style w/ a flat tabletop look unless you can get the stability w/ the kind most are used to seeing, in which case you'll need 2. You can get around tailgate, & only have to kneel to do edges so you don't have a line where new paint meets old. Spraying on a flat surface will also lessen the chance of paint sags which when hung vertically, you will have to contend w/. It depends on what you prefer, I can do either. Some clears run easier than others, but thats another story. Good luck. Seeing your past work, you'll do alright.
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Old Apr 22, 2009 | 07:31 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by larsy87
Yeah, I was trying to figure out if the drop down would happen before or during the gooseneck on the hitch.

Sick pan either way, uber bad ***.
Thanks again. Yeah think it will look much much better. "uber bad ***"... now that is debatable.

Originally Posted by fastnblu
See, Roger, you're inspiring everyone. Now when guys from PT go to a truck show & put pans on, passersby will ask, why? Cause Roger did.
They'll say, who? If I have to explain, you wouldn't understand.



I did a rollpan for a '91 S10. Never put it on. Still have it to this day, for anyone interested pm. Anyway, I spent a ton of time making bodywork perfect. On a rollpan you are dealing w/ the curve of pan while tryin to keep filler straight from L-R. Straight as an arrow, too bad my DD is now my Silvy.

When the pan is made, the fabricator when putting curve that gives pan shape, disrupts sheetmetal, while the license plate recess is welded in causes issues. A brake used to strengthen ends causes further metal creases that demand attention.

Roger, sorry for rambling. You may not wish to go as nuts as I did, but I was taught to finish to the highest standard.
No doubt the forums sell parts. I've probably sold a couple blowers, cowl hoods, suspension parts, transmissions.

The panel over all looks and feels pretty straight. Not a lot of weld on it to distort it. Major work will be over my weld in area I think. I'll finish it to the highest standard I personally can do. If it doesn't suite me I'll take it to a pro.

Originally Posted by fastnblu
Oh yeah, as for hanging tailgate. Yes, you can do that method too. Lot of weight hanging from some thin wire. If you do wire, use the strong stuff. Kinda comes down to freedom of movement around item being sprayed. As I stated earlier, sawhorses work wonders. Only problem is, you want them to support w/o tipping. You want the style w/ a flat tabletop look unless you can get the stability w/ the kind most are used to seeing, in which case you'll need 2. You can get around tailgate, & only have to kneel to do edges so you don't have a line where new paint meets old. Spraying on a flat surface will also lessen the chance of paint sags which when hung vertically, you will have to contend w/. It depends on what you prefer, I can do either. Some clears run easier than others, but thats another story. Good luck. Seeing your past work, you'll do alright.
I have a couple saw horses that should work. Will probably lay it flat on that. I was concerned about the hard line of the stripe. The additional paint build up until I went around the truck and felt all of the two tone transition. Know I can match that. Need to read up on how to blend the clear over the two colors.
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