Cool, now I know! Thanks guys! I had an extra 14 bolt girdle and had hoped I could use it on the Van but guess not. Dana 70 sounds pretty beefy though so I'm happy either way.

No idea and I haven't figured it out yet. Saw a pic of a van that had that done so I'm assuming it can be done but I have to spend more time under the van when it's on a lift to really see if it can be done. I just remembered that there's a second battery in that location between the frame and body molding so that might not be possible. Either way I'll figure something out, I'd really like to use that space for a H20 tank and compressor equipment/tanks.


I think I'm gonna use MDF on the shelves tomorrow, not sure if I'll finish it tomorrow but hopefully make some good progress.

 

For tool storage, I would look into one of Harbor Freight's 5 drawer tool carts, just leave the legs off and you will have a nice low profile box with a top opening lid.


Somehow I thought of Kreiger from Archer when I saw this thread

 

that's a sweet build. There is one in Chino for 6400 I was looking at. Wish I could afford it. Plywood is way stronger than mdf. It is also cheaper (unless you get the high grade thick stuff). there will be way less deflection with the plywood. Also the screws will not "bite" as well in mdf.

 

Now you tell me!!!

I already started the shelves today and the people at home depot all told me different things and different materials that I should use so I ended up just going with MDF!

And now your the second person whose told me the limitations of MDF so I'm a bit worried that it will all come apart. I was also advised to use pilot holes with the screws or the MDF will just split.

I will post up in a few how far I got with the shelves but so far they are coming out pretty sweet. Now that I'm using MDF I'm open to suggestions on what I can do to ensure I don't strip, split or crack the shelves.
Updates with pics coming in a few...

 

I wouldve went with at least HDF... you could always drill holes and bolt it instead of using screws. Just be sure to use large fender washers to disperse the force.

 

If somebody can do it & make it look great, it's probably Julien. He got pretty damn creative with his truck's exhaust setup, and I have to say it turned out looking great.

That said, I wanna see how he does it too.

 

I dont see why the MDF wont hold up as long as you dont beat the **** out of it, they make sub boxes out of MDF and they hold up fine from all the vibrations of subwoofers, so i dont see why it would be a problem. Plus you could always rhino line or line-x the shelves like the floor so they hold up and if you spill something on them it wont soak into the shelves either

 

So I started the cabinet today and like I mentioned earlier, I picked up a sheet of 4x8' 3/4" MDF at home depot. Cost $30 so it wasn't too bad, not sure how much an equivalent sheet of Drywood would of been but this wasn't too bad on the wallet.

I think it reached triple digits today in LA


Here's the first upright, I'm from the school of measure once and cut 7 times!




Followed by the second upright that's just behind the bed...


I got a little sloppy with the wheel well arch!



Made a top shelf, which took alot of time because of the contours but after quite a bit if sanding I think I got it just right...





And followed by the bottom shelf:




I still have two shelves to build before I can cover it in something, not sure if I'm doing carpet, suede or something else. I just think it would be a waste to leave the MDF exposed when the rest of the walls are covered in suede. After it's all done I'm gonna bolt up a steel basket up top so I can store extra oil, fluids, straps or whatever.

I bought some "Loctight power grab heavy duty" today at the advice of a guy at Home Depot but am gonna return it and instead get some Liquid nail at the advice of a friend. So I figure with Liquid nail, and some wood screws it should hold the cabinet together real well.


I also bought some tool bags to hold all the misc tools and make it easier to store it. Ended up getting a basket and a gearbag.

 

You cant really trust the people at home depot. VEry few of them have knowlegde you can trust. It would be like asking an an auto parts retailer emloyee how to build your last truck.

Use lots of wood glue and clamp pieces together while glue is drying. wipe excess up with a damp but not soaked sponge. use a brad nailer. always drill a pilot if you are going to use screws. wood will almost always split when you are within 1.5" from the edge IF you do not drill a pillot.
you can use a countersink bit to make the heads of the screws flush.
you can put 1"x1" in a 90 degree joints to stiffen it up us well.
If you need any help I have a storage full of carpentry/woodworking tools.
also make sure to coat it before it has the chance to get wet.

It really depends on what he is using it for. In my eyes the only good use for mdf is for speaker enclosures.
plywood is lighter for his gas mileage
boats are built with plywood
mdf is basically recycled sawdust with glues etc.
mdf will hold up to vibrations but it doesn't compare to the strength or loads that lywood can handle tensile or compressive.
with water plywood can warp mdf will swell.
Imagine a skateboard made from mdf. that would break on the first ollie

 

THose contours came out pretty (.)(.). I don't know about the liquid nails. I don't think it will adhere to well to the smooth surface of the mdf. It is typically used for sub flooring with rough pressure treated lumber to adhere to foundations. IDK about the tight bond stuff you got, I never used it.