mocked the front half up, all cuts made, deburred the ID, polished, ready to go, just need to find the right orifice to put in the large filter body:

 

Looks good grippy. Will you have enough room to manipulate around your reservoir? Does the GM A/C kit come with instructions or TSB#?

Thanks,
Bill

 

here's some info:

http://www.autoacforum.com/tsi/inline.pdf


about where I'm putting mine:

 

If you want a little more blingage, they can do a clear coating on top of that and give it some gloss.

 

anyone got any ideas on what I should do for a baseline tune to break-in the engine?

the big changes are:
MP112 to MP122H(equivalent to running a 3.0” pulley)
42 to 60lb injectors
stock maf to LPE 100mm maf
stock heads to WCCH stage 2 heads
stock 6L cam to EDC 224/236 600/586 on a 116LSA
stock Converter to PI 2800 3 disc Vig

 

You might want to leave the stock MAF on there while breaking in the engine. You know that table is correct right now. Also, I've heard someone mention in the past that the table supplied by LPE for that 100mm MAF needs some tweaking.

Other than that do some research on other tunes to get the numbers for the 60#ers close(especially idle). Talk to Dewey he has a lot of experience with them.

 

i don't have a stock MAF anymore, sold, gone.......need something to get me down the road

 

I like the flat because I can use a rattle can for touch ups

 

I would dial in the injectors, raise the idle to about 1000, and disconnect the maf for the startup and first few miles. This will keep it from loading up and hurting the rings until you get the v.e. table closer. Once you get that somewhat dialed in you should be able to get a smooth and missfire free idle at around 750/800. That should be good enough to fire it up on and begin your work from there. Below 1600 or so is going to be the challenge. Everything else with that combo should be pretty easy. Are you going to a 2 bar system?

 

Zip, he is staying 1bar I do believe. We can't get that MAF to work nicely with a custom OS. If someone can, post up that tune(2bar/maf) for me to study ALL night. I also believe grip is building a 4" intake so even if he did have the stock maf, it would be more of a bear to get it right just to check the tune out. I agree, the crap work is under 1500rpm. Even 1000rpm. Ever thing else is easy.

Returnless sucks, I have no clue how to tune a 60# inj on returnless. The 60# inj is rated 72.3 at 58psi. So your IFR needs to reflect that obviously...scaled as below.
Injector Flow (lb/hr)72.97836 73.43318 73.88521 74.33448 74.78106 75.22498 75.6663 76.10506 76.54131 76.97508 77.40643 77.83538 78.26198 78.68627 79.10828 79.52806 79.94563

Your min inj setting should be much lower, default as well. Your offset table needs to be in the .5x area at idle vac. Which is difficult when you are trying to get iit on in line at 1000rpm idling.

The nice thing IMO, is you carry all error with that MAF. Sorry, most tuners don't like that, but fuckabunchoftweakingthoseinj settings. DO like zip says, go SD/OL and get your ve inline in all areas below 4K. Then the 100MM maf comes with tables and use theirs, and then turn the maf back on and tune the maf table inline. Then once happy turn on closed loop and don't look back. Have you hit crash up yet? He's got that 1bar **** down! (and everything else as well)

BTW, Grip...


I think you should have those chromed. You know the plastic chrome so the handles aren't metal.