Preston129/BlkSlvrdo129 Build thread - TVS1900, EPS cam and more
#141
Day 7: The most frustrating day of the build so far. Didn't help that it was raining all day, but I thought getting the maggie on would be the most fun, but it was aggravating to the max. Getting things put back on the front of the engine means a lot less room for me wedged between the motor and rad support, so manoeuvring the maggie into place was a huge pain in the nuts. Knocked the spacers on the intake ports out of alignment twice and had to it out and re-set them. Then I noticed the fuel rail crossover at the back was hitting a bracket that's bolted to the back of the driver side head which I left on thinking it was going to be re-used, so getting the bolt broken free at the back of the head was a real delight.
Then I made my first discovery of the day: Maggie TVS truck kits are not made to be used with the valley cover vented at the front. The angle of this nipple hits the bottom of the intercooler tray so I tried first bending the pipe downward but this helped but didn't fix the problem so I finally pulled it out, re-bent it but made the mistake of leaving it out before dropping the maggie into place. Then with the maggie on, it's nearly impossible to get back into place, you're working with like a half-inch of space. Had to pull the water pump off again and even then only got the nipple seated about 2/3 of the way back into the valley cover. So with the vent nipple pointing down towards the water pump, it's just barely enough room to get the new steam crossover tube in the front. After I got the 3/8 hose on the vent barb everything is VERY tight. The crossover presses down on the 3/8 hose so it's going to help keep the vent tube in place, because there is no way I'll be able to get it back in when everything's back together. I'm going to keep an eye on it, because if it works its way out of the valley cover, I think I'm going to plug the hole with silicone and just draw air from the PCV at the back of the driver side valve cover.
And the second discovery is that you really need to take a lot of material away from that alternator bracket. Even with the amount of grinding I did yesterday, I wish I would have gone further because it just barely cleared one corner of the maggie.
Another surprising FUBAR was getting the first bolt tightened on the driver side of the maggie. The front fuel rail crossover and bypass valve are blocking any possible way of getting a socket and/or extension into place. Even a knuckle on a short socket didn't work.
Another thing I noticed was the flexible part of the fuel line is resting against the back of the fuel rail. I don't think this could ever rattle or rub enough to cause any damage to the fuel line, but it's something else I'm going to keep a close eye on.
So after all this complaining, I did get the maggie installed, fuel line connected, alternator bolted back in, HD tensioner swapped in place of the regular one, tensioner bracket installed and belt wrapped around everything.
Tomorrow going to pick up wherever the instructions left off; still need to route the EVAP lines, install my catchcan and route those lines, relocate the IAT wires then maybe get started on the the heat exchanger/aux water pump wiring.
Here's some pics:
This is the inlet on the maggie, you can see the bypass valve inside:

More than a couple paycheques sitting there:











3.4" upper pulley:

Bosch 3 bar MAP. You'd think the bolt hole on the sensor would line up with the hole tapped in the maggie, but this is not the case, connector needs to face rearward:

Here's something else that wasn't clearly addressed in the instructions. The EVAP solenoid has the grey nipple facing forward, so when you slide it onto the bracket magnacharger sends, the bracket hits a tab on the solenoid preventing it from moving any closer than this to the fuel rail:

This didn't really seem right to me so I flipped it over to take a pic of where the bracket was hitting the tab but the pic didn't come out well (this pic shows how far the EVAP solenoid can go onto the bracket before hitting the tab):

Flipped around it looks like it fits better, but the grey nipple obviously faces the wrong way:

Here you can see where I trimmed off the plastic tab on the solenoid so it would sit closer to the fuel rail:

And here's how it sits after modifying the solenoid:

Here's a question for you guys that have installed the HD tensioner, which hole do you install it in? I can't remember which one I put it in but I just tried to mimic the angle the regular tensioner had:
Then I made my first discovery of the day: Maggie TVS truck kits are not made to be used with the valley cover vented at the front. The angle of this nipple hits the bottom of the intercooler tray so I tried first bending the pipe downward but this helped but didn't fix the problem so I finally pulled it out, re-bent it but made the mistake of leaving it out before dropping the maggie into place. Then with the maggie on, it's nearly impossible to get back into place, you're working with like a half-inch of space. Had to pull the water pump off again and even then only got the nipple seated about 2/3 of the way back into the valley cover. So with the vent nipple pointing down towards the water pump, it's just barely enough room to get the new steam crossover tube in the front. After I got the 3/8 hose on the vent barb everything is VERY tight. The crossover presses down on the 3/8 hose so it's going to help keep the vent tube in place, because there is no way I'll be able to get it back in when everything's back together. I'm going to keep an eye on it, because if it works its way out of the valley cover, I think I'm going to plug the hole with silicone and just draw air from the PCV at the back of the driver side valve cover.
And the second discovery is that you really need to take a lot of material away from that alternator bracket. Even with the amount of grinding I did yesterday, I wish I would have gone further because it just barely cleared one corner of the maggie.
Another surprising FUBAR was getting the first bolt tightened on the driver side of the maggie. The front fuel rail crossover and bypass valve are blocking any possible way of getting a socket and/or extension into place. Even a knuckle on a short socket didn't work.
Another thing I noticed was the flexible part of the fuel line is resting against the back of the fuel rail. I don't think this could ever rattle or rub enough to cause any damage to the fuel line, but it's something else I'm going to keep a close eye on.
So after all this complaining, I did get the maggie installed, fuel line connected, alternator bolted back in, HD tensioner swapped in place of the regular one, tensioner bracket installed and belt wrapped around everything.
Tomorrow going to pick up wherever the instructions left off; still need to route the EVAP lines, install my catchcan and route those lines, relocate the IAT wires then maybe get started on the the heat exchanger/aux water pump wiring.
Here's some pics:
This is the inlet on the maggie, you can see the bypass valve inside:

More than a couple paycheques sitting there:











3.4" upper pulley:

Bosch 3 bar MAP. You'd think the bolt hole on the sensor would line up with the hole tapped in the maggie, but this is not the case, connector needs to face rearward:

Here's something else that wasn't clearly addressed in the instructions. The EVAP solenoid has the grey nipple facing forward, so when you slide it onto the bracket magnacharger sends, the bracket hits a tab on the solenoid preventing it from moving any closer than this to the fuel rail:

This didn't really seem right to me so I flipped it over to take a pic of where the bracket was hitting the tab but the pic didn't come out well (this pic shows how far the EVAP solenoid can go onto the bracket before hitting the tab):

Flipped around it looks like it fits better, but the grey nipple obviously faces the wrong way:

Here you can see where I trimmed off the plastic tab on the solenoid so it would sit closer to the fuel rail:

And here's how it sits after modifying the solenoid:

Here's a question for you guys that have installed the HD tensioner, which hole do you install it in? I can't remember which one I put it in but I just tried to mimic the angle the regular tensioner had:
#142
Cont'd:
Here you can see the impossibly small amount of space to try to reinstall the valley cover vent tube (which is the polished piece under the steam crossover tube):

Here's another angle of the vent tube:

Serpentine belt routed:

The bracket is loose, but this is where the catchcan is going:

Couple last pics:

Here you can see the impossibly small amount of space to try to reinstall the valley cover vent tube (which is the polished piece under the steam crossover tube):

Here's another angle of the vent tube:

Serpentine belt routed:

The bracket is loose, but this is where the catchcan is going:

Couple last pics:

#146
[QUOTE=Preston129;4721747]Day 6:
I read in the installation manual from magnacharger that you have to take off some material from the alternator bracket right behind the idler pulley, and I debated the necessity of this step, because I've spoken with Trey (Skipperdaddy) who has a Roush TVS1900 kit and he didn't need to modify anything, but I felt the time to do it was now, and I don't want to have to lift the maggie twice, so I Sharpie'd a couple lines and went to work with the die grinder.
Is the manual different then the one on maggies website? The only one they have for the NNBS is the Radix Max for 6.0 and 6.2s.
I read in the installation manual from magnacharger that you have to take off some material from the alternator bracket right behind the idler pulley, and I debated the necessity of this step, because I've spoken with Trey (Skipperdaddy) who has a Roush TVS1900 kit and he didn't need to modify anything, but I felt the time to do it was now, and I don't want to have to lift the maggie twice, so I Sharpie'd a couple lines and went to work with the die grinder.
Is the manual different then the one on maggies website? The only one they have for the NNBS is the Radix Max for 6.0 and 6.2s.
#147
Day 6:
I read in the installation manual from magnacharger that you have to take off some material from the alternator bracket right behind the idler pulley, and I debated the necessity of this step, because I've spoken with Trey (Skipperdaddy) who has a Roush TVS1900 kit and he didn't need to modify anything, but I felt the time to do it was now, and I don't want to have to lift the maggie twice, so I Sharpie'd a couple lines and went to work with the die grinder.
I read in the installation manual from magnacharger that you have to take off some material from the alternator bracket right behind the idler pulley, and I debated the necessity of this step, because I've spoken with Trey (Skipperdaddy) who has a Roush TVS1900 kit and he didn't need to modify anything, but I felt the time to do it was now, and I don't want to have to lift the maggie twice, so I Sharpie'd a couple lines and went to work with the die grinder.
#149
Whenever you end up getting it I'll try to point out all the trouble spots.
#150
Day 8: Had to stop for rain twice but I'm flying now! Relocated the IAT wires, plugged in the injectors, mounted the RX catchcan and ran the lines to it from the valley cover then to the port on the maggie. Hooked up the EVAP piping and last vac line to the brake booster. Got the heat exchanger mounted, aux water pump relay and aux water pump mounted and last job was mounting the Trick Performance water tank.
Tomorrow I'm going to bring the last exhaust parts to powdercoating so I can have them back sometime next week.
Only things left to do now are to run the water lines, hook up a few more electrical connections, mount the air intake tube, lingenfelter MAF and 4" couplings, reinstall the rad and fans. Fill the rad and coolant tank, download the new tunes and I can fire it up.
Really wish I had my 90mm throttle body back, but Canada Post is being a bunch of greedy ****** so it's sitting somewhere around the border in NY while they're on strike
Might bolt the stock 87 just to fire it though, not sure, they're supposed to be in the process of legislating them back to work so we'll see what happens.
Didn't take too many pics today, so I hope you guys like looking at composite tanks
Bit of a difference between the water tank Magnacharger sends with their kits and the one I bought from Trick:

I had -12 AN fittings installed in the tank so flow would never be a problem:


Can's dirty, but looks great in the engine bay:


Going to be a bit of a pain getting the can drained because it sits so close to the HD tensioner, but I think I'll be able to get a coffee cup in there, or funnel or something:


Back to the tank; it fits in REALLY well with the rest of the black plastic under the hood, looks almost OEM:



Bosch waterpump for the intercooler:


Last one for the day:
Tomorrow I'm going to bring the last exhaust parts to powdercoating so I can have them back sometime next week.
Only things left to do now are to run the water lines, hook up a few more electrical connections, mount the air intake tube, lingenfelter MAF and 4" couplings, reinstall the rad and fans. Fill the rad and coolant tank, download the new tunes and I can fire it up.
Really wish I had my 90mm throttle body back, but Canada Post is being a bunch of greedy ****** so it's sitting somewhere around the border in NY while they're on strike

Might bolt the stock 87 just to fire it though, not sure, they're supposed to be in the process of legislating them back to work so we'll see what happens.
Didn't take too many pics today, so I hope you guys like looking at composite tanks
Bit of a difference between the water tank Magnacharger sends with their kits and the one I bought from Trick:

I had -12 AN fittings installed in the tank so flow would never be a problem:


Can's dirty, but looks great in the engine bay:


Going to be a bit of a pain getting the can drained because it sits so close to the HD tensioner, but I think I'll be able to get a coffee cup in there, or funnel or something:


Back to the tank; it fits in REALLY well with the rest of the black plastic under the hood, looks almost OEM:



Bosch waterpump for the intercooler:


Last one for the day:




Still waiting for idle vids haha.