I hope I'm not late for work!
#1201
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,282
Likes: 438
From: Huntsville, AL
Ah thanks for that! I was sure I measured the thread pitch as 1mm though, hmm
Usual, I really just need the nut off of the clutch...if you want to cut that off the clutch and send it to me that would be awesome!
So McMaster has M30x1.5 for $25 each, ouch.
Usual, I really just need the nut off of the clutch...if you want to cut that off the clutch and send it to me that would be awesome!
So McMaster has M30x1.5 for $25 each, ouch.
Last edited by Atomic; Dec 10, 2015 at 02:32 PM.
#1203
$25 ea? That almost seems like it's more than what it would cost to have a custom piece turned to add support to the pulley.
So during some training at work today I had a lightbulb go off in my head. What if instead of strengthening the pulley and welding to the shaft, we just reduce the load on the pulley? Let me explain.
So the water pump, alternator, and power steering pump are all on the tensioned side of the belt between the supercharger and the crank (the right side looking at it from the front) since the crank spins clockwise. What if you simply take the tensioned side of the belt off of the water pump and then wrap the slack side of the belt (the one the tensioner is on) around the waterpump. Then to get back the belt wrap on the crank you add another idler from that pile of pulleys you have above the powersteering pump using one of the alt/PS bracket bolts and washers or a machined spacer (I think dirty dingo makes an idler relocation kit that puts an idler in that spot). The alt and PS pump seem ok with the load so they'd still be the same, but now you just have a longer belt and less load on the waterpump pulley. Somehow this seems a little too easy. You see any holes in my theory?
Look at the second to last picture in the post linked below to see a pic of where you can put the extra idler. He just used the stock truck idler (which the whipple bracket replaces) and a longer bolt with some washers.
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f213/c...2/#post7453540
So during some training at work today I had a lightbulb go off in my head. What if instead of strengthening the pulley and welding to the shaft, we just reduce the load on the pulley? Let me explain.
So the water pump, alternator, and power steering pump are all on the tensioned side of the belt between the supercharger and the crank (the right side looking at it from the front) since the crank spins clockwise. What if you simply take the tensioned side of the belt off of the water pump and then wrap the slack side of the belt (the one the tensioner is on) around the waterpump. Then to get back the belt wrap on the crank you add another idler from that pile of pulleys you have above the powersteering pump using one of the alt/PS bracket bolts and washers or a machined spacer (I think dirty dingo makes an idler relocation kit that puts an idler in that spot). The alt and PS pump seem ok with the load so they'd still be the same, but now you just have a longer belt and less load on the waterpump pulley. Somehow this seems a little too easy. You see any holes in my theory?
Look at the second to last picture in the post linked below to see a pic of where you can put the extra idler. He just used the stock truck idler (which the whipple bracket replaces) and a longer bolt with some washers.
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f213/c...2/#post7453540
#1204
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,282
Likes: 438
From: Huntsville, AL
Hmm ya know ive seen some bad ideas before, but I dont think thats one of them. The belt would be forever long, but if I could adjust the tensioner down far enough (good thing I made all those holes) to get enough wrap on the pulley then it just might work! Ill work on that some tomorrow. Thanks for the idea!
#1205
I'm glad you didn't see a glaring flaw in my thinking.
What do you mean adjust the tensioner low enough? Get enough wrap on which pulley?
Let me know how it turns out and what size belt you end up with. Would be sweet if this solved the issue.
What do you mean adjust the tensioner low enough? Get enough wrap on which pulley?
Let me know how it turns out and what size belt you end up with. Would be sweet if this solved the issue.
#1207
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,282
Likes: 438
From: Huntsville, AL
Thanks Usual!
So it looks like that idea may actually work,

I think ill need a 133" belt, which gates makes a few around the size K08135HD and non-HD. Ill also need a ~170ish mm M10x1.5 bolt for the additional idler and ill need some sort of spacer on the back to get it at the right distance. Total cost would be around $50 I think.
Other than that though, I dont have a waterpump thats not modified in some way...1 is broken, 1 has the rod welded through the snout, and the other has holes drilled for pins. So this would work better for someone else to try that is having this issue haha.
It may work better if my tensioner was reversed actually, providing tension in the clockwise direction instead of counter clockwise. I was originally worried about having enough wrap on the water pump pulley, but it looks close to 180 degrees so I think that will be ok. By adjust the tensioner low enough I mean to get enough wrap on the waterpump. Another idler down there would actually be perfect but theres not a lot of room to do that. If the tensioner pushed the belt down instead of pulled it up I think it would work better.
So it looks like that idea may actually work,

I think ill need a 133" belt, which gates makes a few around the size K08135HD and non-HD. Ill also need a ~170ish mm M10x1.5 bolt for the additional idler and ill need some sort of spacer on the back to get it at the right distance. Total cost would be around $50 I think.
Other than that though, I dont have a waterpump thats not modified in some way...1 is broken, 1 has the rod welded through the snout, and the other has holes drilled for pins. So this would work better for someone else to try that is having this issue haha.
It may work better if my tensioner was reversed actually, providing tension in the clockwise direction instead of counter clockwise. I was originally worried about having enough wrap on the water pump pulley, but it looks close to 180 degrees so I think that will be ok. By adjust the tensioner low enough I mean to get enough wrap on the waterpump. Another idler down there would actually be perfect but theres not a lot of room to do that. If the tensioner pushed the belt down instead of pulled it up I think it would work better.
#1209
Awesome! I'm glad to see it's looking like it's possible.
I was worried about clearance between the extra idler you added and the metco one, but it looks pretty good. If it does become an issue, you can use this: DD-LS-IRB - Idler Bracket Install LS Conversion LS Swap - DD-LS-IRB - Idler Bracket Install LS Conversion LS Swap
I'll try this when I install the whipple on my 5.3. With work and wedding planning, I haven't had time to touch the truck since september.
I agree a reversed tensioner would increase the wrap angle on the WP pulley as it takes up the slack.
Do the maggies not have this same issue? I feel like there are multiple members spinning maggies hard and I don't recall seeing the WP pulley coming off for them. Only the whipple 5.3 that new era built and this one (from recent threads).
I was worried about clearance between the extra idler you added and the metco one, but it looks pretty good. If it does become an issue, you can use this: DD-LS-IRB - Idler Bracket Install LS Conversion LS Swap - DD-LS-IRB - Idler Bracket Install LS Conversion LS Swap
I'll try this when I install the whipple on my 5.3. With work and wedding planning, I haven't had time to touch the truck since september.
I agree a reversed tensioner would increase the wrap angle on the WP pulley as it takes up the slack.
Do the maggies not have this same issue? I feel like there are multiple members spinning maggies hard and I don't recall seeing the WP pulley coming off for them. Only the whipple 5.3 that new era built and this one (from recent threads).







