Blown 408(literally)
Jun 7, 2010 | 01:40 AM
#61
i dunno... during summer i try not to plan that far ahead. 
if you figure out when you want to do it, just let me know. i need to ask off of work 2 weeks in advance. almost all of my friends went home for the summer, so other than redoing my exhaust, i won't have much of anything to do other than work all summer long. PM sent.
if you figure out when you want to do it, just let me know. i need to ask off of work 2 weeks in advance. almost all of my friends went home for the summer, so other than redoing my exhaust, i won't have much of anything to do other than work all summer long. PM sent.
Jun 7, 2010 | 01:51 AM
#62
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,282
Likes: 438
From: Huntsville, AL
If everything goes right (ha) I should have everything before the end of the month and I hope to install it between my break in classes around the 4th....
Jun 7, 2010 | 02:07 AM
#64
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,282
Likes: 438
From: Huntsville, AL
Nothing is for sure though since I dont have everything, still waiting on quite a lot actually, and the girlfriend wants to go to a braves game right in the middle of that 
If its not around the 1st it will be in middle august.
If its not around the 1st it will be in middle august.
Jun 7, 2010 | 06:45 AM
#66
got ya.
thirty second lesson on pulling out an engine...
IIRC, first you wanna disconnect and label the harness connections. disconnect all of the coolant lines, depressurize the fuel system, and don't disconnect the a/c compressor if you don't have to; take off the fan assy, disassemble the fan shroud. that should be it as far as things under the hood goes. i'd remove the hood just to be safe. you might also want to remove your grille. unbolt the trans x-member and support the tranny, a floor jack should work just fine if you don't have a tranny jack. unbolt the d-shaft. once you've got the lift chain in place and the hoist in a safe spot, jack it up until the chain is taught and give it a little bit more to take the pressure off of the engine mounts. unbolt the mounts, then slowly pull it out to make sure you don't hit anything, then tear down 
if you need any help let me know. i'll be happy to lend a hand.
thirty second lesson on pulling out an engine...
IIRC, first you wanna disconnect and label the harness connections. disconnect all of the coolant lines, depressurize the fuel system, and don't disconnect the a/c compressor if you don't have to; take off the fan assy, disassemble the fan shroud. that should be it as far as things under the hood goes. i'd remove the hood just to be safe. you might also want to remove your grille. unbolt the trans x-member and support the tranny, a floor jack should work just fine if you don't have a tranny jack. unbolt the d-shaft. once you've got the lift chain in place and the hoist in a safe spot, jack it up until the chain is taught and give it a little bit more to take the pressure off of the engine mounts. unbolt the mounts, then slowly pull it out to make sure you don't hit anything, then tear down if you need any help let me know. i'll be happy to lend a hand.SCREW ALL THE EXTRA STUFF ! ! If it doesn't need to come out . . . leave it alone !
No need to label all the conections . . . all the plugs are different, except for the injectors. Take a few pics of where the ground connections go, on the back of the intake, front accessory bracket, on the drivers side to the block, and the ground strap.
pull the battery connections,
The hood can open to a service position . . . unbolt the lower bolt, and the hood flips up to vertical.
The A/C pump cannot be removed until the motor is a few inches up and in the air . . . leave the all the plugs and hose connections on there . . . just unbolt it
You can pull the motor with the water pump on the block and the crank pulley . . . . if you pull the water pump . . . it dumps coolant all over the place while the motor is in the air
pull the radiator, tape off the tranny lines
Pull the starter . . and then the bolts for the flex plate . .. these can be seen now where the starter was.
unbolt the accessory bracket, with the alernator and power stearing still attached . . . just flop it to the side
While the motor is in the air, it can be rotated as it's pulled . . .
Keep the ground as dry as possible . . . . you're going to be laying in everything that gets dropped.
Remember the placement/length for he a/c compressor bolts . . . . put the bracket on the new motor before it goes in . . .
Take off the oil pressure sender . . . it's easy to kill it on the fire wall
have a 12pt 15mm box wrench for the converter bolts, and about 4ft of extentions for the tranny bolts unless you already have a body lift . . . this is for the bell housing bolts. Once the intake is off, you can get to the top 3 bolts.
When the motor goes in, it needs to be a little higher in the front vs the rear, meaning not level. It's easy to mat it to the trans
Jun 7, 2010 | 09:16 AM
#68
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,282
Likes: 438
From: Huntsville, AL
^^^^
SCREW ALL THE EXTRA STUFF ! ! If it doesn't need to come out . . . leave it alone !
No need to label all the conections . . . all the plugs are different, except for the injectors. Take a few pics of where the ground connections go, on the back of the intake, front accessory bracket, on the drivers side to the block, and the ground strap.
pull the battery connections,
The hood can open to a service position . . . unbolt the lower bolt, and the hood flips up to vertical.
The A/C pump cannot be removed until the motor is a few inches up and in the air . . . leave the all the plugs and hose connections on there . . . just unbolt it
You can pull the motor with the water pump on the block and the crank pulley . . . . if you pull the water pump . . . it dumps coolant all over the place while the motor is in the air
pull the radiator, tape off the tranny lines
Pull the starter . . and then the bolts for the flex plate . .. these can be seen now where the starter was.
unbolt the accessory bracket, with the alernator and power stearing still attached . . . just flop it to the side
While the motor is in the air, it can be rotated as it's pulled . . .
Keep the ground as dry as possible . . . . you're going to be laying in everything that gets dropped.
Remember the placement/length for he a/c compressor bolts . . . . put the bracket on the new motor before it goes in . . .
Take off the oil pressure sender . . . it's easy to kill it on the fire wall
have a 12pt 15mm box wrench for the converter bolts, and about 4ft of extentions for the tranny bolts unless you already have a body lift . . . this is for the bell housing bolts. Once the intake is off, you can get to the top 3 bolts.
When the motor goes in, it needs to be a little higher in the front vs the rear, meaning not level. It's easy to mat it to the trans
SCREW ALL THE EXTRA STUFF ! ! If it doesn't need to come out . . . leave it alone !
No need to label all the conections . . . all the plugs are different, except for the injectors. Take a few pics of where the ground connections go, on the back of the intake, front accessory bracket, on the drivers side to the block, and the ground strap.
pull the battery connections,
The hood can open to a service position . . . unbolt the lower bolt, and the hood flips up to vertical.
The A/C pump cannot be removed until the motor is a few inches up and in the air . . . leave the all the plugs and hose connections on there . . . just unbolt it
You can pull the motor with the water pump on the block and the crank pulley . . . . if you pull the water pump . . . it dumps coolant all over the place while the motor is in the air
pull the radiator, tape off the tranny lines
Pull the starter . . and then the bolts for the flex plate . .. these can be seen now where the starter was.
unbolt the accessory bracket, with the alernator and power stearing still attached . . . just flop it to the side
While the motor is in the air, it can be rotated as it's pulled . . .
Keep the ground as dry as possible . . . . you're going to be laying in everything that gets dropped.
Remember the placement/length for he a/c compressor bolts . . . . put the bracket on the new motor before it goes in . . .
Take off the oil pressure sender . . . it's easy to kill it on the fire wall
have a 12pt 15mm box wrench for the converter bolts, and about 4ft of extentions for the tranny bolts unless you already have a body lift . . . this is for the bell housing bolts. Once the intake is off, you can get to the top 3 bolts.
When the motor goes in, it needs to be a little higher in the front vs the rear, meaning not level. It's easy to mat it to the trans
Ive replaced the trans before so I know how to get to the flywheel and all of that. I plan to put the blower on after I have the engine in there so I can reach that top bolt on the bellhousing, man that sucked last time.
