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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 11:29 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Atomic
Progress....



placed some big orders yesterday, should be getting a bunch of presents in the mail over the next week or two
summit is awesome, I ordered this stuff yesterday around 4 and got it today at lunch.

someone buy my damn alternator
I live in ohio so most of my stuff comes from Talmage,OH. I have oredered at 10-11 p.m. and get it at 12.pm or before the next day. I love it! Summit is AWESOME! Great customer service too!
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 04:01 PM
  #52  
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Heres a thread on 370 vs 408 if you have a few minutes.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...your-help.html


Your going to be giving that 1900 a workout but with the compression and cubes this thing should have tonnnssss of low end!!
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 04:39 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by 1989k1500
Heres a thread on 370 vs 408 if you have a few minutes.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...your-help.html


Your going to be giving that 1900 a workout but with the compression and cubes this thing should have tonnnssss of low end!!
Interesting thread, but I dont think I will even be in the same ballpark as those guys running 20+ pounds of boost and 1400hp. Hell I would be happy with half that

Reading that thread makes me glad I bought the shortblock from a good shop in texas. I called them before I bought it and they have a pretty big presence in the racing world, so they must be doing something right.

With the cam pat spec'd out for me it should drive damn near stock, just with a lot more *****
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 12:49 AM
  #54  
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So a few questions about swapping engines...

-Do I need to remove the hood or radsupport/condensnor? I dont really want to if I dont have to, especially the condensor.

-Do you guys unbolt the trans, remove the driveshaft, and slid the trans back enough to clear the engine, or pull it all out at once, or what?

-Any tips? This is my first engine swap.
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 12:57 AM
  #55  
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i've never done it on a newer vehicle, but back in the day, we would unbolt the driveshaft and take everything out through the engine bay. you can use the heads/chain method, but an engine lift plate works better.
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 01:08 AM
  #56  
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Do you have a lifting plate you would let me borrow?

I cant justify spending $50 on one to only use it once when bolts work just as well.
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 01:10 AM
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i have one at the house for gen 1 SBC's but it won't work on our engines. IIRC it's for a carbed intake.
If you've got an engine lift (I have one and we might be able to work something out), a chain, and a few bolts, you can lift the engine out that way, but it's better to use the plate.
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 01:13 AM
  #58  
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I have an engine hoist (see page 1) and stuff to lift, just wasnt sure about the procedure.
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 01:30 AM
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got ya.
thirty second lesson on pulling out an engine... IIRC, first you wanna disconnect and label the harness connections. disconnect all of the coolant lines, depressurize the fuel system, and don't disconnect the a/c compressor if you don't have to; take off the fan assy, disassemble the fan shroud. that should be it as far as things under the hood goes. i'd remove the hood just to be safe. you might also want to remove your grille. unbolt the trans x-member and support the tranny, a floor jack should work just fine if you don't have a tranny jack. unbolt the d-shaft. once you've got the lift chain in place and the hoist in a safe spot, jack it up until the chain is taught and give it a little bit more to take the pressure off of the engine mounts. unbolt the mounts, then slowly pull it out to make sure you don't hit anything, then tear down if you need any help let me know. i'll be happy to lend a hand.
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 01:35 AM
  #60  
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Got anything going on around July 1st? I may take you up on that
It would be much easier to maneuver with 2 people thats for sure.
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