Blown 408(literally)
#1
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,282
Likes: 438
From: Huntsville, AL
This horsepower thing is addictive 
I want to build a 408 stroker and (at least initially) slap my blower on it. Maybe a turbo a long time from now....
What im starting with:
-LQ9 block bored to 4.030"
-K1 4" stroker crank
-Callies Compstar 6.125" rods
-Diamond flat top pistons
-All new bearings
Other stuff I already have
-14b SF with eaton LSD
-Performabuilt level 3 4l60e
-Bigass AL driveshaft good for 800hp
-PI 2600 triple disc stall
-Dual 3" to single 4" exhaust
-Motron 60lb injectors
What im thinking
-Change the flat top pistons for some dished ones to bring the CR down to the 10.5:1 range. As it sits now, it would be around 11.5:1 to with stock 317s
-buy some 317 heads and have them ported and polished
-Have a cam specd out from Pat G (who is that exactly?)
-The factory truck accessories should be fine
Issues
-What is the largest valve size I can run with the 4.03" bore? (Ive heard 2.08/1.6)
-This will be a daily driver so nothing crazy, and has to run on 93 gas (hence the drop in compression)
-Are piston rings reusable if the engine hasnt been run, just installed?
-Any opinions on rockers arms and other valvetrain hardware (ie, is stock sufficient?)
I plan on throwing my tvs1900 on top of it, so I need to stick with cathedral heads (317s). I might can get 6lbs of boost from the blower on a 408 with a small pulley, and I dont plan on running much more than that initially. I want a metric **** ton of low-end and midrange torque, and dont want to rev to the moon to make power. This is a long term build and I want to get it right the first time.
Any tips from you guys who have built one of these before? I just bought a couple books on engine rebuilding to educate myself before I try to just throw something together.

I want to build a 408 stroker and (at least initially) slap my blower on it. Maybe a turbo a long time from now....
What im starting with:
-LQ9 block bored to 4.030"
-K1 4" stroker crank
-Callies Compstar 6.125" rods
-Diamond flat top pistons
-All new bearings
Other stuff I already have
-14b SF with eaton LSD
-Performabuilt level 3 4l60e
-Bigass AL driveshaft good for 800hp
-PI 2600 triple disc stall
-Dual 3" to single 4" exhaust
-Motron 60lb injectors
What im thinking
-Change the flat top pistons for some dished ones to bring the CR down to the 10.5:1 range. As it sits now, it would be around 11.5:1 to with stock 317s
-buy some 317 heads and have them ported and polished
-Have a cam specd out from Pat G (who is that exactly?)
-The factory truck accessories should be fine
Issues
-What is the largest valve size I can run with the 4.03" bore? (Ive heard 2.08/1.6)
-This will be a daily driver so nothing crazy, and has to run on 93 gas (hence the drop in compression)
-Are piston rings reusable if the engine hasnt been run, just installed?
-Any opinions on rockers arms and other valvetrain hardware (ie, is stock sufficient?)
I plan on throwing my tvs1900 on top of it, so I need to stick with cathedral heads (317s). I might can get 6lbs of boost from the blower on a 408 with a small pulley, and I dont plan on running much more than that initially. I want a metric **** ton of low-end and midrange torque, and dont want to rev to the moon to make power. This is a long term build and I want to get it right the first time.
Any tips from you guys who have built one of these before? I just bought a couple books on engine rebuilding to educate myself before I try to just throw something together.
Last edited by Atomic; Apr 14, 2010 at 09:59 PM.
#6
See if you can swap it out for an 80e, seriously...
Run the thicker cometic HG, and get a set of WCCH 317 heads and get Richard to hog em out a little more, his normal CNC program leaves them at 72 but I believe he can get 74 out of them. With the thicker HG and bigger combustion chamber that should get you close to 11:1 and would be perfect for that little blower. I ran 11.2:1 in my 418 with no problems towing in Texas heat, just be conservative on the timing since youre boosted.
From reading your post it sounds like you bought an assembled 408 shortblock? If so Id really just run it and do what I said above. 11:1 and a 1900 is the perfect elixer for roasting those expensive *** MTs. Dont know how much your tires cost but the toyo mt 35x12.5R20s I had on the Dmax were F'in expensive
Patrick Guerrera si the guy youre looking for. His SN on here is Patrick G, he has a link to his cam spec'ing business in his sig. You could also talk to Richard@WCCH about cam specs too.
Run the thicker cometic HG, and get a set of WCCH 317 heads and get Richard to hog em out a little more, his normal CNC program leaves them at 72 but I believe he can get 74 out of them. With the thicker HG and bigger combustion chamber that should get you close to 11:1 and would be perfect for that little blower. I ran 11.2:1 in my 418 with no problems towing in Texas heat, just be conservative on the timing since youre boosted.
From reading your post it sounds like you bought an assembled 408 shortblock? If so Id really just run it and do what I said above. 11:1 and a 1900 is the perfect elixer for roasting those expensive *** MTs. Dont know how much your tires cost but the toyo mt 35x12.5R20s I had on the Dmax were F'in expensive

Patrick Guerrera si the guy youre looking for. His SN on here is Patrick G, he has a link to his cam spec'ing business in his sig. You could also talk to Richard@WCCH about cam specs too.
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#8
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,282
Likes: 438
From: Huntsville, AL
I actually asked him that when I bought the 60e. Frank said I can swap it out and just pay the difference anytime within the 1 year warranty period, so that is comforting....
I was hoping to avoid spending a huge amount of heads since ive heard there isnt that much benefit when running boost and ported stock heads would be 95% of the performance for a fraction of the cost.
Yea...tires....
yea, Pat, im screwed. As soon as I finished the blower I said, "ok thats done, now whats next"
I was hoping to avoid spending a huge amount of heads since ive heard there isnt that much benefit when running boost and ported stock heads would be 95% of the performance for a fraction of the cost.
Yea...tires....

yea, Pat, im screwed. As soon as I finished the blower I said, "ok thats done, now whats next"
#9
Silver-mod-o is selling those heads right now for 1100 I believe. On a stock displacement motor Id say there isnt much gain if you had the ability to turn the boost up even more but since youre running a pretty good size engine and a limited amount of CFM that blower can flow you need to make the most use out of the air you can.
Id honestly give Richard a call, he'll tell you what to do regardless of whether or not he sells you a product. Im pretty sure once you talk to him you'll have a clear idea of what you need to do. 818-705-5454
Id honestly give Richard a call, he'll tell you what to do regardless of whether or not he sells you a product. Im pretty sure once you talk to him you'll have a clear idea of what you need to do. 818-705-5454
#10
Sounds like fun, but expensive!
Why build a stroker if your going to force air into it?
Strokers make great N/A motors, But i feel its a lot of extra money spent since you plan to force feed your motor anyway.
Save some cash and swap in a 6.0 and up the boost on your blower, that will be one fun street truck!
But if cost is no thought go for it, it will be a real torque monster.
Good luck !
Why build a stroker if your going to force air into it?
Strokers make great N/A motors, But i feel its a lot of extra money spent since you plan to force feed your motor anyway.
Save some cash and swap in a 6.0 and up the boost on your blower, that will be one fun street truck!
But if cost is no thought go for it, it will be a real torque monster.
Good luck !






