Back in the game. RCSB 1500 D-max swap coming...
#391
moog makes a whole upper control arm that has offset bushings in them. a quick search wil find them. thats why i have on mine they work perfectly. very well priced too. think the best price was on amazon
edit: it was moog part number K80826 they're like $60 a piece plus shipping on amazon can't beat that although your probably going to have to rotate the offset of the bushing but i know it can be done another guy on a tahoe forum did it
edit: it was moog part number K80826 they're like $60 a piece plus shipping on amazon can't beat that although your probably going to have to rotate the offset of the bushing but i know it can be done another guy on a tahoe forum did it
#393
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,282
Likes: 438
From: Huntsville, AL
Too much negative CV angle is just as bad as too much, although you are right the front end will lift some when you launch. You could always drill out the knuckle and run the tie rods on the bottom with heims kind of like I did.
#394
Thread Starter
High on diesel fumes
iTrader: (70)
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 12,658
Likes: 3
From: Phoenix, AZ
Seems as though I have three options:
1. Lift truck back up 1/2-1 inch and align using stock components. Cheap, no additional parts needed, but I'm not sure I'd like the look. Might have to simulate the change this evening. Tie rods would come closer to level doing it this way.
2. Replace control arms with aftermarkets with offset bushings. Easier of the two options for keeping current ride height, a little cheaper, but it sounds like I'll have to mess with the bushing offsets some and hope I get it right. Also, tie rods stay in current position.
3. Replace spindles with aftermarket lowering spindles. Torsion bars would come up while the truck stays at the same height, which would bring the tie rods closer to level. Most expensive and most time consuming of the three options. Not sure if or how ride quality would be affected having bumpstops further from LCA.
Hmmmm........
1. Lift truck back up 1/2-1 inch and align using stock components. Cheap, no additional parts needed, but I'm not sure I'd like the look. Might have to simulate the change this evening. Tie rods would come closer to level doing it this way.
2. Replace control arms with aftermarkets with offset bushings. Easier of the two options for keeping current ride height, a little cheaper, but it sounds like I'll have to mess with the bushing offsets some and hope I get it right. Also, tie rods stay in current position.
3. Replace spindles with aftermarket lowering spindles. Torsion bars would come up while the truck stays at the same height, which would bring the tie rods closer to level. Most expensive and most time consuming of the three options. Not sure if or how ride quality would be affected having bumpstops further from LCA.
Hmmmm........
#396
IMHO, the negative CV angle is just fine and nothing to be worried about. As far as the offset bushings, you'll only need to install them one time. Position them to move the upper ball joint as far away from the frame as possible, and you're all set. It's easy to do if you have a press, and not expensive.
I've never seen the preassembled UCA's with offset bushings. I don't know if they come clocked properly for what you need, or not. Any links or pics of them??
I've never seen the preassembled UCA's with offset bushings. I don't know if they come clocked properly for what you need, or not. Any links or pics of them??
#397
Thread Starter
High on diesel fumes
iTrader: (70)
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 12,658
Likes: 3
From: Phoenix, AZ
IMHO, the negative CV angle is just fine and nothing to be worried about. As far as the offset bushings, you'll only need to install them one time. Position them to move the upper ball joint as far away from the frame as possible, and you're all set. It's easy to do if you have a press, and not expensive.
Where's a good place to look for the offset bushings, or what brand? That would be great if I could get just a bushing set rather than having to buy the whole arm.






