Ok...I have a question on the body lift.

The LLY radiator support is 2-3/4" taller than the gasser support. I've read that most people are running a 2" body lift. I don't want to reinvent the wheel, but if I run a 2" lift at the rear of the cab and the fender mounting holes are 2-3/4" at the front, approx 10 feet ahead, that will give me about a .35 degree up angle for the body. When comparing that to the bed, which will be flat, the gap would theoretically be 1/4" tighter at the top of the bed than at the bottom. Think that will be noticeable?

 

OK, been sorta watching this thread now for a while, and I like what I see ! I have a question regarding the body lift.. In order to avoid the installation of the body lift is it possible to drop the radiator support down?? I realize this would involve cutting and pasting the mounts but perhaps its an alternative?

Is the only reason that you need the body lift is because of the rad support or is it also because of clearance around the transmission tunnel ?

Thanks and good luck with the project, it looks like a fun project !

 

Body lift is only necessary for the rad support. Supposedly the Allison fits under the body with it at stock height. I suppose you could either cut down the body mounts that go under the rad support or lower the entire thing, I think there are a few people that have done that. You'd have to either run e-fans or modify the stock fan shroud, because it wouldn't line up at that point. Too much work for me, and I've seen a couple pics of these body lifted trucks with suspension drops to compensate that look good, so I wasn't too worried about it. I ordered a set of Belltech drop shocks, bumpstops, and drop shackles today, should lower me by 2-4 inches when I'm all finished. Looking to get as close as possible to my old truck's stance when I'm finished:

 

sniff sniff , i miss the ole beast !!!

can you post up some pics of the mounting for the cooling stack , kinda hard to tell , but looks possible to lower it some , and more modding might even get it down enough , though at that point , custom tanks would help out alot more

 

I'm sure by cutting down or eliminating the body mounts that go under the cooling stack I could get it down quite a bit. Some have mentioned being able to notch the frame as well to drop the radiator/intercooler stack down and be able to run the gasser radiator support. For me, it's just easier to run the body lift. I'll make up the difference with a suspension drop, should be fine that way.

I think I've decided for sure on running a 9.5 SF out back, but I'm having a hell of a time finding one. I'll be making a roadtrip to Cali later this month, and found a couple out there, might end up picking one of them up if nothing pops up here in CO between now and then. Been watching craigslist and car-part.com.

 

If you find a smoking deal on a rear end out here and want to get it just let me know and I'll buy it and hold if for you until you come out here. I'm shuttling between LA and SF so I can bring it to either place.

 

Awesome, thanks Julien. The cheapest one I found so far is in Duarte by LA, but it has drums on it. I can use it but it will put the calipers in a weird position when I switch them over from the 8.5. Ideally I'd like to find a 9.5 that had discs, as my understanding is that the flange is in the "correct" place for calipers.

There's another one in Sacramento, and two in Lynwood as well, I need to call on those to see if they are drums or discs.

 

Neither of the two places in LA are that far from me and sacramento is just a little detour from my drives into SF. Might wanna check with Joseph (1FastBrick). He's got a hard-on for rear-ends and collects them if he comes across a good deal.

 

Got the chassis and transfer case harnesses swapped over this afternoon. I have about 2 feet of length to take out of it, might try to do that tomorrow. I am currently out of heat shrink tubing and almost out of electrical tape, so tomorrow is a parts run afternoon.

Also figured out that the connectors on the ABS modules are different. Any thoughts on whether I can cut and splice the connectors, or if I need to swap the whole module over from the 05?

 

I talked to the Lynwood guy today, he was supposed to go check on it and call me back...never heard from him. Will call again tomorrow.