2000 silverado rclb to rcsb drag truck low budget conversion
May 20, 2012 | 09:56 PM
#243
You went to all that work and left the shocks in the stock location??? Why?? Not to mention the angle of them looks insane. You should have relocated to the back of the rear end at 0*.
May 20, 2012 | 10:02 PM
#244
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 169
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City
I left them there for lateral location
2 link
I want the motor done for the upcoming car show June 16 so I have to switch priorities temporarily
The 2 link system is now completely stable and doesn't have any of the weird quirks once I added shocks and addressed the frame flex I was encountering.
2 link
I want the motor done for the upcoming car show June 16 so I have to switch priorities temporarily
The 2 link system is now completely stable and doesn't have any of the weird quirks once I added shocks and addressed the frame flex I was encountering.
May 20, 2012 | 10:04 PM
#245
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,282
Likes: 438
From: Huntsville, AL
The shock bushings completely negate any lateral support. For instance, unbolt a shock and see how far you can move it side to side. Any is way too much because while driving youll easily have 2000pounds of force trying to force it side ways.
May 20, 2012 | 11:21 PM
#248
Looks much nicer now but like others have said it needs some attention. A pan hard bar is the main thing that should be on there before you drive it more then 3 feet in the driveway.
How do you have the back half attached to the factory frame? That 2"(?) tube is pretty strong but with the spring so far from the back half I would think some more strength should be built into it. If you notice back half kits usually have a 2x3 or bigger frame not 2" square. Now if you have a cage going in the truck the 2" tube might be enough to support the coil overs and the current springs but I don't think I would put my faith in that fairly light duty frame too long. You are going to tweak the currently nice looking product and be back to square one. Maybe I am wrong but I think you need to get some more steel back there to support what you have going on right now.
Again you got some damn good looking stuff going on now but I think you need to build in some more strength. Especialy since plan to put a fire breathing 1,000,000 hp engine.
How do you have the back half attached to the factory frame? That 2"(?) tube is pretty strong but with the spring so far from the back half I would think some more strength should be built into it. If you notice back half kits usually have a 2x3 or bigger frame not 2" square. Now if you have a cage going in the truck the 2" tube might be enough to support the coil overs and the current springs but I don't think I would put my faith in that fairly light duty frame too long. You are going to tweak the currently nice looking product and be back to square one. Maybe I am wrong but I think you need to get some more steel back there to support what you have going on right now.
Again you got some damn good looking stuff going on now but I think you need to build in some more strength. Especialy since plan to put a fire breathing 1,000,000 hp engine.
May 21, 2012 | 12:22 PM
#249
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 169
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City
The kick up behind the cab is cut at an angle
The 2" is slid inside the c channel and welded everywhere it meets the frame
Above that where it levels off there's 1/8" plate reinforcing the corner
The coil springs now have upper and lower buckets
Pan hard will be fabbed up shortly.
The 2" is slid inside the c channel and welded everywhere it meets the frame
Above that where it levels off there's 1/8" plate reinforcing the corner
The coil springs now have upper and lower buckets
Pan hard will be fabbed up shortly.