Awesome. I'll take a closer look today. Thanks for your help.

Hey, maybe you know this. What gear oil do I need for this rear end? I was thinking it was 75-90 GL-5 synthetic. Do I need a friction modifier?


Not really. More than anything I used the clamp so that I could put a specific amount of pressure on it, to position the axle shaft in just the right spot so I can pull the C clip out. When I was doing it by hand it had a tendency to push back outward and made it difficult to pull the C clip out. The clamp in that picture isn't very tight at all.

 

Yes, That is correct. If you read the Label the GL-5 Should already have friction modifier in it for the limited slip.

 

Thanks! I bought some Mobile 1 gear oil.

Today I pulled my truck into the garage and got to work. There's a lot of little things to disconnect when dropping the rear end. I found out it's easier to disconnect the parking brake cable under the driver's side door than at the brakes themselves.

After several hours, it's all disconnected.



I pulled it out where I could get a good look at it. Compared to the AXN 14 bolt, it's very similar. It looks like that backing plates will be clocked differently and the brake lines are different. The 10 bolt rear has a mounting bracket where the brake lines T together. On the 14 bolt that T is above the differential. On the 10 bolt it's above the driver's side shock mount.



I ran out of time, but it doesn't look like it'll be much of a problem to swap the disc brakes over and get everything installed. After that, I need to drop the transfercase and fix a leaky seal.

 

I opened up the 10 bolt so I could remove the C clips. Snapped a quick pic to compare to the 9.5" 14 bolt.



I measured both axle shafts. I took a pic of each measure where the shaft changed size. The 10 bolt shafts change size 7 times and the 9.5" 14 bolt, 4 times.

I won't post pics of the 10 bolt because there's 7 of them and that would take a lot of space. Here's a compilation of the 4 different sizes on the larger 9.5" 14 bolt.



I removed all the brake hardware from the 10 bolt and bolted it onto the AXN axle. The only difference is that the flange appears to be clocked 45° differently.

Here you can see the brakes back plate bolted on with the inner drum brake.



Here's the disc in place. Everything went one easy-peasy. I wasn't sure which direction to actually clock the brakes, so I went upward. I hope it doesn't interfere with the leaf springs. We'll see.



You can also see in the above picture that I put the brake lines on. The disc brake lines will bolt up everywhere except where the 2 sides meet and connect to the line that goes to the booster. On the drum brake setup, that line is above the differential. On the disc brake setup, that line has a mount welded on the axle tube. I'm not sure how I'll solve that one. I'll have to think about it.

Next I rolled in into place. Then I ran out of time.



Now I just have to get everything bolted back up then figure out what I'm going to do for a driveline. Either a hybrid u-joint or maybe a driveline from a 3/4 ton truck? I'm not sure yet.

 

I was thinking about this. Would you guys go with a conversion u-joint or have a 3/4 ton yoke welded on my driveline? I'm thinking the stronger yoke may be the smarter way to go.

Anyone happen to have a part number for the correct yoke?

 

I went with a new yoke on mine, perfect time if you dont have a built driveshaft yet. All of mine are 1350s, which is the stock size on the 14b.

 

My driveline is a tiny bit too long. Boo!





I'm still debating how I'm going to handle this. I was planning on running a conversion u-joint but now I'm leaning towards building a new driveline with 1350 u-joints.

I took this pic because I thought it was funny how the driveline is nearly horizontal due to lowering the truck.



I hate dropping the transfercase. It's heavy, awkward and slippery. Anywho, I finally got it out.



Next I need to get it taken apart so I can replace the back half. Once I get that fixed and bleed the brakes, I can drive this beast again. Woot!

 

i'm no expert, but I think that pinion angle needs to be adjusted, maybe its just the pic.

 

With the truck on jackstands, pinion angle really isn't known. But yeah, if the pinion is pointing up it needs to be shimmed.

 

Iregret, can you measure the 14b and 10b from axle hub to axle hub for comparison? George is claiming the 14b is wider than the 10b and FastBrick is saying they're the same. I've been pondering a 14b swap but I don't want my tires sticking out looking stupid.