Want my truck faster
03-05-2018, 11:03 PM
#32
Agreed. Maybe the 2600 is a sweet spot. I’ve had friends drive my truck respectfully and haven’t a clue it’s stalled. Whenever I get a “wow it has more power than I thought”, I know they’ve hit it hard.
The stall keeps em honest. Lol
The stall keeps em honest. Lol
03-06-2018, 04:51 PM
#33
Obviously if you're towing the stock stall is gonna be your favorite.
Have y'all ever had a large stall and felt the change it makes?
I've had the "hardly noticeable" stall before too when I had a 2500 rpm stall. Track times also proved it was hardly noticeable... MPG was the same and so were track times, it was a total waste of money.
Have y'all ever had a large stall and felt the change it makes?
I've had the "hardly noticeable" stall before too when I had a 2500 rpm stall. Track times also proved it was hardly noticeable... MPG was the same and so were track times, it was a total waste of money.
03-07-2018, 01:11 PM
#34
It’s important to find a balance between all the gobs of hp you want, and the drivability you need.
If you put a large stall on a daily driver, it probably won’t be your daily for long. Or you’ll just be the guy who complains about losing MPGs.
If you put a large stall on a daily driver, it probably won’t be your daily for long. Or you’ll just be the guy who complains about losing MPGs.
03-07-2018, 05:57 PM
#35
I was that guy, but I knew what I was getting into so I didn't care, the mass amounts of fun I had daily was all worth it. I spent a lot of time driving and didn't have much time for fun. I worked a lot and work was 1-2 hours drive each way, and was always going somewhere for work or for the kids so I got my enjoyment where I could.
03-07-2018, 06:51 PM
#36
I hear yah. I drive ALOT, and have done a lot of research before buying.
I decided to build my truck from the back forward. This is a nnbs ccsb heavy pig.
So first was the 14 bolt s/f and 3:73 (I drive mostly highway), then a fully built 4l65 (knew I’d never exceed 450whp), now I’m deciding to either build a high revving destroked ls3 or just a basic cammed 6.2.
Life’s not worth living unless you can enjoy it.
My point is, for any one:
Do research till your ears and eyes bleed.
Plan.
Plan some more.
Execute.
Break ****.
Figure out why it broke.
Repeat.
..once you have the vehicle you want to put money into..figure out realistic goals. Especially if yah got a full size crew cab or suv.
For instance, I don’t have the money to build a 1,200hp monster that my heavy *** truck would need to break into the 10’s. Doesn’t make sense to me. I’d rather buy a single cab short bed to start, or even a car.
I knew I wanted a truck to comfortably fit my whole family, enough bed space and tow capacity to get my jobs done, and eventually a mildly built engine to have a little fun w/ a drive terrain to hold the power. That’s without going into specifics.
It’s all the advice I have from my experiences.
I decided to build my truck from the back forward. This is a nnbs ccsb heavy pig.
So first was the 14 bolt s/f and 3:73 (I drive mostly highway), then a fully built 4l65 (knew I’d never exceed 450whp), now I’m deciding to either build a high revving destroked ls3 or just a basic cammed 6.2.
Life’s not worth living unless you can enjoy it.
My point is, for any one:
Do research till your ears and eyes bleed.
Plan.
Plan some more.
Execute.
Break ****.
Figure out why it broke.
Repeat.
..once you have the vehicle you want to put money into..figure out realistic goals. Especially if yah got a full size crew cab or suv.
For instance, I don’t have the money to build a 1,200hp monster that my heavy *** truck would need to break into the 10’s. Doesn’t make sense to me. I’d rather buy a single cab short bed to start, or even a car.
I knew I wanted a truck to comfortably fit my whole family, enough bed space and tow capacity to get my jobs done, and eventually a mildly built engine to have a little fun w/ a drive terrain to hold the power. That’s without going into specifics.
It’s all the advice I have from my experiences.
03-08-2018, 01:00 PM
#37
I hear yah. I drive ALOT, and have done a lot of research before buying.
I decided to build my truck from the back forward. This is a nnbs ccsb heavy pig.
So first was the 14 bolt s/f and 3:73 (I drive mostly highway), then a fully built 4l65 (knew I’d never exceed 450whp), now I’m deciding to either build a high revving destroked ls3 or just a basic cammed 6.2.
Life’s not worth living unless you can enjoy it.
My point is, for any one:
Do research till your ears and eyes bleed.
Plan.
Plan some more.
Execute.
Break ****.
Figure out why it broke.
Repeat.
..once you have the vehicle you want to put money into..figure out realistic goals. Especially if yah got a full size crew cab or suv.
For instance, I don’t have the money to build a 1,200hp monster that my heavy *** truck would need to break into the 10’s. Doesn’t make sense to me. I’d rather buy a single cab short bed to start, or even a car.
I knew I wanted a truck to comfortably fit my whole family, enough bed space and tow capacity to get my jobs done, and eventually a mildly built engine to have a little fun w/ a drive terrain to hold the power. That’s without going into specifics.
It’s all the advice I have from my experiences.
I decided to build my truck from the back forward. This is a nnbs ccsb heavy pig.
So first was the 14 bolt s/f and 3:73 (I drive mostly highway), then a fully built 4l65 (knew I’d never exceed 450whp), now I’m deciding to either build a high revving destroked ls3 or just a basic cammed 6.2.
Life’s not worth living unless you can enjoy it.
My point is, for any one:
Do research till your ears and eyes bleed.
Plan.
Plan some more.
Execute.
Break ****.
Figure out why it broke.
Repeat.
..once you have the vehicle you want to put money into..figure out realistic goals. Especially if yah got a full size crew cab or suv.
For instance, I don’t have the money to build a 1,200hp monster that my heavy *** truck would need to break into the 10’s. Doesn’t make sense to me. I’d rather buy a single cab short bed to start, or even a car.
I knew I wanted a truck to comfortably fit my whole family, enough bed space and tow capacity to get my jobs done, and eventually a mildly built engine to have a little fun w/ a drive terrain to hold the power. That’s without going into specifics.
It’s all the advice I have from my experiences.
For you a high revving destroker is polar opposite of what you need in a pig, you need big stroke low rpm grunt. The low end setup will be far more fun. The high revver will cost you thousands in valve train, you'll need a large stall to get rolling out, kiss towing goodbye, you'll need high gears and the stall to keep the rpms high at all times. Just all around terrible for a heavy truck.
Either take a 6.0 iron block and stroke it and bore or do a 6.2
I planned out and mapped out a build for a long time and I was going to get a NNBS so that it already had the good intake large tb and good 243 heads and I was gonna do a 6.0 block and bore it 4.065 so I could use OE stock cast LS3 pistons and save a lot of money. Just gotta figure out which rod to use with it.
03-08-2018, 06:02 PM
#39
I always build the car then add power, brakes chassis suspension headers exhaust then cam, nitrous or turbo. So basically I do it the same way.
For you a high revving destroker is polar opposite of what you need in a pig, you need big stroke low rpm grunt. The low end setup will be far more fun. The high revver will cost you thousands in valve train, you'll need a large stall to get rolling out, kiss towing goodbye, you'll need high gears and the stall to keep the rpms high at all times. Just all around terrible for a heavy truck.
Either take a 6.0 iron block and stroke it and bore or do a 6.2
I planned out and mapped out a build for a long time and I was going to get a NNBS so that it already had the good intake large tb and good 243 heads and I was gonna do a 6.0 block and bore it 4.065 so I could use OE stock cast LS3 pistons and save a lot of money. Just gotta figure out which rod to use with it.
For you a high revving destroker is polar opposite of what you need in a pig, you need big stroke low rpm grunt. The low end setup will be far more fun. The high revver will cost you thousands in valve train, you'll need a large stall to get rolling out, kiss towing goodbye, you'll need high gears and the stall to keep the rpms high at all times. Just all around terrible for a heavy truck.
Either take a 6.0 iron block and stroke it and bore or do a 6.2
I planned out and mapped out a build for a long time and I was going to get a NNBS so that it already had the good intake large tb and good 243 heads and I was gonna do a 6.0 block and bore it 4.065 so I could use OE stock cast LS3 pistons and save a lot of money. Just gotta figure out which rod to use with it.
03-08-2018, 07:49 PM
#40
My biggest problem is my stock LMG series 2007 engine will not die. It’s completely stock and the truck only has a tune from Blackbear. So far it’s taken out a rearend (replaced by a 14 bolt s/f), and a transmission (replaced w/ a fully built 4l65).
I’m almost at the point where I’m thinking it would be cool to do a full rebuild w/heads & cam plus all the longevity parts then put a million miles on it.
Plus an LSA blower for fun at some point.
It’s just my family wagon, not a race truck. These 4 & 5th gen LS engines are putting GM outta business, the rest of my truck looks damn good in my opinion and I have zero incentive to buy anything newer than 2013...ever.
I’m almost at the point where I’m thinking it would be cool to do a full rebuild w/heads & cam plus all the longevity parts then put a million miles on it.
Plus an LSA blower for fun at some point.
It’s just my family wagon, not a race truck. These 4 & 5th gen LS engines are putting GM outta business, the rest of my truck looks damn good in my opinion and I have zero incentive to buy anything newer than 2013...ever.