INTERNAL ENGINE MODIFICATIONS Valvetrain |Heads | Strokers | Design | Assembly

Need help working out a Parts combo for a 5.3

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Old Nov 20, 2009 | 01:54 AM
  #21  
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If anyone sees this, I'm looking for cnc or hand Ported 5.3 heads complete with decent springs looking for 53-58cc chambers, they can be used, a Good Mildish torquey cam like a 210-218 .5-.600 lift 110-112lsa new or used cam, a CAI kit complete, and a 2500-3000 Good Tight vert, let me know what ya have, i have cash, Thanks, Derek
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Old Nov 20, 2009 | 11:13 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Pontiac Derek
Anyone else banned from posting a WTB add in the For Sale Section? is it because i'm new?
Yep, you need 50 posts before you can post in the classifieds. I think that if you've been a member for 6 months and have less than 50 posts you can post in the classifieds also, but I'm not 100% sure on that.

Talk to Richard at WCCH about some heads, they're a sponsor here and there's a link to the right. They do top notch work, and have the most outstanding customer service that I've ever received
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Old Nov 20, 2009 | 08:49 PM
  #23  
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I bought a 2003 5.3 with 19,000 miles from a wrecked truck for 200$ and a RC car i had today! i stripped it all down to a bare block and everything is Absolutely Mint, Bearings don't even have any marks, So now i'm going to build a 383 stroker out of it, 3.900 bore 4.00 stroke, i think the kit from Texas Speed Looks pretty good, Cam will be bigger now for sure LOL 224--228 area, Now we're going to have some fun!
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Old Nov 21, 2009 | 09:31 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Pontiac Derek
I do a LOT of Freeway Driving so i want to keep the 3.42's for now, I know that Kills ET big time but its fun to do 90mph in second gear LOL]
Gear your truck so at 90mph you'll be around 5000rpm in 3rd gear.
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 11:10 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by budhayes3
Derek, you've mentioned porting the stock intake...I haven't really heard of that being done, I don't believe that there's a whole lot of room to hog it out, or at least maybe it doesn't provide any gains. I can't think of anyone who's ported one. ...
Same here, IDK of anyone, nor enuff plastic to port. That's where FAST intk comes in, they claim it has room to hog out as u need. I'm not sayin buy a FAST, only that it has more a person can port, alon w/. its' other features. But, since you're on a budget & it's ~$850, pass on FAST intk. Also, somewhere on features on FAST site, it may say little or no porting can be performed to stocker.

Billy & John, cmon! Cmon Cletus! Cmon!

Originally Posted by 1Bear
Derek, it looks as if you are refining your plan and it looks good. I seen as part of your original plan, you were wanting to install a billet timing chain. There are a few reasons to omit that part of your build, but in general they are more trouble than what they are worth in the LS style motors. A good chain that will probably be more chain than you need is one that is available through Lingenfelter. Info taken from Lingenfelter: The IWIS heavy duty timing chain for LS1, LS6 or LS2, Gen III and Gen IV GM engines. This chain is more durable than the factory and most after market chains. Part # SD3SR602 is for the chain only.

I'm sure a lot of folks have their own particular stance on this subject and that's fine. A quite a few I'm sure feel that if they are building a motor, they might as well put in the best parts they can while they are building it. You can't argue with that sentiment, but while timing chains can break, it's pretty seldom they do in automatic equipped vehicles as long as they are good chains and not stretched to death. On the other hand a stick car can have issues, especially when getting on and off the throttle making gear changes. You will find this happening fairly often on road courses. A part that has helped quite a bit in this department is the spring loaded chain tensioner, to keep the chain from slapping around and stretching further. Most if not all truck blocks are not drilled and tapped for the tensioner though and would have to be to use it.
1Bear, why is a billet chain more trouble than they're worth on LS. Explain. Is it due to cost or machining? I'd like to know just to know.

Pontiac Derek, a 2003 5.3 with 19,000 miles from a wrecked truck for 200$ and a RC car is a score! And it has low miles.
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 01:19 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by fastnblu
Billy & John, cmon! Cmon Cletus! Cmon!
Ha, you have that stuck in my head now, I keep walking around doing my "chores" saying "cmon Cletus cmon" to myself lol...thanks bud
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by budhayes3
Ha, you have that stuck in my head now, I keep walking around doing my "chores" saying "cmon Cletus cmon" to myself lol...thanks bud
I say that to my brothers, sis-in-law, just about anyone when time is right.

I had to use Hercules! Hercules! Other day when someone lifted a real heavy item for a woman.
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by fastnblu
1Bear, why is a billet chain more trouble than they're worth on LS. Explain. Is it due to cost or machining? I'd like to know just to know.
Don't get me wrong, depending on the application there are all sorts of necessary equipment. It's just for most general applications a single row chain such as an LS2 or better is more than adequate. At a minimum, you will have to space out the oil pump and slightly bend the oil pick-up tube to match the new pump position. If you have the oil pan off, you could just elongate the mounting hole instead of bending the tube. Everyone knows how important it is to not have the oil pick-up tube cocked as it will suck air. In some cases when running a pump such as the Mellings, you may have to slightly clearance the pump itself when running a dual row chain. In some cases it also may be necessary to slightly clearance the timing cover itself after moving the pump forward, which is also more likely with the Mellings pump. None of this is over difficult, it's just something to keep in mind and clearances need to be checked. If you find yourself to be a person that has a tendency to just bolt things together and hope for the best, it's probably better to stick with the single row chains.

Like I said, don't get me wrong every application has its particular needs, everything from a simple chain or gear drive to a belt drive. Only you or your builder will know what your needs are. Cost is definitely not the ultimate consideration here and keep in mind everyone will have their own feelings on the subject and just because I feel this way doesn't mean everyone will.
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 06:52 PM
  #29  
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I won't hold u to it.
I knew bout spacing pump out or maybe cover interference, but not as many items as u detailed. Gotcha!

Last edited by fastnblu; Nov 22, 2009 at 07:39 PM.
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 07:23 PM
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With the set up that we've been outlining here, an LS2 timing chain and factory oil pump should be adequate...(got one <LS2 chain> sitting in a box waiting to be installed on my LQ9 )
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