Need help working out a Parts combo for a 5.3
#13
Hey thanks for the Info!, Yeah i have been mulling over that Radix 112, I basically want to spend 2500-3000$ and be Done for quite a while, I do a LOT of Freeway Driving so i want to keep the 3.42's for now, I know that Kills ET big time but its fun to do 90mph in second gear LOL, The motor runs Beutifull so far and so i don't think i will do a 408 yet, The supercharger will eat my budget fairly quickly and i'm sure i will need $ for tuning,headers,cat back,K&N ect, So for i have to be Smart with the mods I do for sure, I think i will keep it NA and try to do as many mods on the list as possible,
Here is what i'm coming up with
I'm going to upgrade my stock heads with new or slightly used castings fully rebuilt with comp 2618's,retainers,locators,2.00in 1.55ex valves, Hand Ported mostly bowl and guide work and Flow tested, milled .035 to 53cc with .041 head gaskets get comp up to 10.5-10.7:1
TS 220-220 cam 112lsa .581lift Hardened Push rods, stock rockers
Billit 9-key t-set if available?
Ported Truck intake, stock MAF and TB
Long tube Ceramic coated headers, No cat Y, Magnaflow Muffler
I'll get the recomended cold air kit with K&N filter
Yank or Cirlcle D 3000 stall
Full custom tune by my Guy Wong's Performance,
Trans Mods if affordable at this moment,
Ok now hows this sound?
On Headers i just found on Ebay Motors Stainless steel headers with 3'' outlet and Y-pipe for buy it now of 320$ by speed daddy, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/99-07...item2a0160aa9c
Here is what i'm coming up with
I'm going to upgrade my stock heads with new or slightly used castings fully rebuilt with comp 2618's,retainers,locators,2.00in 1.55ex valves, Hand Ported mostly bowl and guide work and Flow tested, milled .035 to 53cc with .041 head gaskets get comp up to 10.5-10.7:1
TS 220-220 cam 112lsa .581lift Hardened Push rods, stock rockers
Billit 9-key t-set if available?
Ported Truck intake, stock MAF and TB
Long tube Ceramic coated headers, No cat Y, Magnaflow Muffler
I'll get the recomended cold air kit with K&N filter
Yank or Cirlcle D 3000 stall
Full custom tune by my Guy Wong's Performance,
Trans Mods if affordable at this moment,
Ok now hows this sound?
On Headers i just found on Ebay Motors Stainless steel headers with 3'' outlet and Y-pipe for buy it now of 320$ by speed daddy, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/99-07...item2a0160aa9c
Last edited by Pontiac Derek; Nov 19, 2009 at 04:51 PM.
#14
Interesting cam specs...I'm not sure, but .600 lift and 1.8 rockers on milled heads may or may not create PTV clearance issues
When you referred to "MAS", did you mean "MAF" (mass air flow sensor)? If so, don't do anything to the MAF, keep the stocker unless you go with a speed density tune. You can keep the stock truck intake and throttle body with the head and cam combo that you listed and save some money there. If you decide to go for the 408, plan on swapping out your 4L60E trans for a stout 80E, as a 408 will eat the 60E for lunch 

60E can fail to somethin weaker than a 408, but I have a line on a partially paid Level 7, which includes a CircleD. My buddy is gonna let me pay balance off & it's all mine.
OP, if buyin a used Radix, it'll prolly come w/. a K&N drop-in filter.
Last edited by fastnblu; Nov 22, 2009 at 10:51 AM.
#15
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...de=GEN3Rockers these are the Comp Gold 1.82's, I was going to use the Stainless 1.85's i just got the two mixed up, My reasoning behind the cam,heads,rocker ratio was this, In my experience Good Flowing Heads with Good Flow to CC ratio with Good Low-Mid range Numbers Combined With Short Duration/Aggressive High lift Lobes/and or High Ratio Rockers makes the Big Power Gains in a Usable "Truck Like" RPM Range, Its not Great for Hi RPM without Killer Valvetrain Parts but i never Personally was shooting for a 5000rpm torque peak, That was My thought behind that, I build Hi Performance Pontiac and Ford FE Engines for a Living and was Incorporating what ive learned in other areas to the LS style engine fwiw I'm here to Learn Though and want all the input i can get!
#16

Derek, you've mentioned porting the stock intake...I haven't really heard of that being done, I don't believe that there's a whole lot of room to hog it out, or at least maybe it doesn't provide any gains. I can't think of anyone who's ported one. Also, since you're on a relatively tight budget, I'd pass on the rockers and put the cash towards something else. The stockers have proven to be reliable and many have revved to the moon with them
Sounds like you're getting on the right track
Last edited by budhayes3; Nov 19, 2009 at 09:00 PM.
#17
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 16,820
Likes: 2
From: In a van DOWN BY THE RIVER
#18
#19
Derek, it looks as if you are refining your plan and it looks good. I seen as part of your original plan, you were wanting to install a billet timing chain. There are a few reasons to omit that part of your build, but in general they are more trouble than what they are worth in the LS style motors. A good chain that will probably be more chain than you need is one that is available through Lingenfelter. Info taken from Lingenfelter: The IWIS heavy duty timing chain for LS1, LS6 or LS2, Gen III and Gen IV GM engines. This chain is more durable than the factory and most after market chains. Part # SD3SR602 is for the chain only.
I'm sure a lot of folks have their own particular stance on this subject and that's fine. A quite a few I'm sure feel that if they are building a motor, they might as well put in the best parts they can while they are building it. You can't argue with that sentiment, but while timing chains can break, it's pretty seldom they do in automatic equipped vehicles as long as they are good chains and not stretched to death. On the other hand a stick car can have issues, especially when getting on and off the throttle making gear changes. You will find this happening fairly often on road courses. A part that has helped quite a bit in this department is the spring loaded chain tensioner, to keep the chain from slapping around and stretching further. Most if not all truck blocks are not drilled and tapped for the tensioner though and would have to be to use it.
Good luck in your quest for a fun, good running truck!
I'm sure a lot of folks have their own particular stance on this subject and that's fine. A quite a few I'm sure feel that if they are building a motor, they might as well put in the best parts they can while they are building it. You can't argue with that sentiment, but while timing chains can break, it's pretty seldom they do in automatic equipped vehicles as long as they are good chains and not stretched to death. On the other hand a stick car can have issues, especially when getting on and off the throttle making gear changes. You will find this happening fairly often on road courses. A part that has helped quite a bit in this department is the spring loaded chain tensioner, to keep the chain from slapping around and stretching further. Most if not all truck blocks are not drilled and tapped for the tensioner though and would have to be to use it.
Good luck in your quest for a fun, good running truck!
#20
Thanks 1Bear, Only reason i was hinting at a 9-key timing set is the Adjustability so i can Degree the Cam easier, i have seldom seen a Cam come in on spec or a Timing set for that matter, its important but i'll see how close the cam is to where i want it and go from there and Thanks for the info from LPE, Anyone else banned from posting a WTB add in the For Sale Section? is it because i'm new?






.. Hell for a couple of beers I would do it for ya