the revving and all of that is for a flat tappet cam, going out and driving it will vary the rpms and allow the rings to seat right. Go search on tech and you will find all the info you need, the link to the motorcycle guy is on there too in one of the threads.

 

The EOS from GM is what we use on all of our engine break-ins, The Engine Oil Supplement has Zinc in it which was removed from production oils ( the most of them anyway ). It is especially useful in preventing cam lobe failure when spring pressures approach the upper limit of reliability ( for that particular cam ).

TJ

 

Seating the rings with high rpm makes sense and alot of engine builders use that method. Itd be interesting to see what GM does with factory engines.

But one thing Ive always wondered about is what if you have new high lift springs that require a couple heat cycles before thrashing em?

 

I use 10w30 conventional oil. I do 25 mins of varying rpms around 2500-3000 (just don't let it idle long - prolonged idling doesn't promote ring seal), shut it down and cool down for 25 mins, then repeat (heat cycles the valve springs) - change oil & filter to get out all assembly lube and crap. Then run it like you stole it! Change oil again at 500 miles, then at 3,000. After that, you can change to synthetic.

 

i read somewhere that GM messed up with the LS1 motors by using synteic too soon and one reason they consume so much oil as they do. i think it was in GM high tech awhile back


i also read to us 20-50 on strokers to break them in


i plan on using 20-50 for first fire up. let it idle up to temp. shut off. cool down then fire it up and let it get to temp then start driving thru rpm ranges.
plan to use 20-50 for it...after 2k in miles proably then go to syn....as long as its not the typical 408 consuming oil

 

thanks for the info

 

on my initial fire up I'm going to use Rotella Diesel 15w-40.

 

some good tips in here:

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com..._engine_build/

 

it's not just for flat tappet setups, but also to lube/cool the wrist pins/pistons.

 

With the flat tappet cams, the method is to start it up and run it at 2k for 15 or so minutes to "run in" the cam. With our engines (or any engine for that matter), what I've always learned and been told is not to keep the engine at any certain speed for a pro-longed period of time for the first 500 miles. As mentioned, you should vary the engine speed as much as possible.