So, I am looking for the next power adder for my truck. I had thought about CAI, 90mm TB, and high flow MAF but it seems that those options would only provide me with a marginal power increase. So I have turned my eyes towards a new cam. Only problem is I am a complete noob when it comes to cams. I am not even sure if I would need new rods, springs, or rockers (although I heard the stock rocker arms are better than aftermarket). Do you guys have any idea about cam specs or what I should replace along with the cam?

PS: I know converters are a popular option but considering this is my DD and my cruise RPM is below 2000, its not an option for me. As for gearing I would love to swap to a lower ratio but being my truck is AWD, I havent found any viable options.

 

Hey bud , welcome to the site .

I have an interest for the project / truck/ mods your doing/ reaserching Lol

Anyway let's see if we can all help ya get where your going or wanting to be.

1. Don't buy a larger/or aftermarket MAF , if your wanting to make good-to great power , you'll want to ditch the MAF anyway for. Custom Speed Density tune to compliment your future mods.

2. A 90mm Throttle body is a great idea .

3. Cam wise you'll want something in the 220-235ish range . Maybe even a hair larger since you already have plenty of low end TQ from the blower., but stall converter will help also .

4. Only new push rods and stiffer valve springs will be required to compliment your cam install . Stock rockers and lifters are fine ( unless you have over 150k on your stock lifters).

5. ,The 6 speed in our trucks is pretty stout when tuned properly , and has a great lower first gear ratio to help get ya moving , so I would wait on gears for a future future mod

6. A 2600 , 2800, or 3000 stall torque converter will compliment your blower nicely , and drive like stock till ya mash it , getting you in your power band quicker .
I reccommend and only use Precision Industries Triple disc vigilante converters , they are tough and reliable and I have beat the **** out of 3 of them with no problems , they drive , race , and tow excellent .
You can also check out Circle D , they have nice units too I've heard .

Then also I'd lower your pulley size and also you'll need to keep in account how much boost/ power your fuel system will support as it may need modded too.

 

Well said Tim. For a cam you can always get one spec'd out. To fit you needs and wants.

 

Thank you again Tim! I have heard that the 90mm TB doesnt do much besides change your throttle resolution. Although, I must admit, I have wondered if it may give me some more airflow at my high end. Have you seen any gains (other than driveability) from a 90mm?

What do you think about aftermarket CAIs for a truck like mine?

You havent had issues with heat generation from the higher stall converters? I have heard two stories, one is that before stall RPM the converter is slipping ie: during cruise. I have also heard that there is a mechanism which will lock up the stall converter to prevent slippage during cruise.

As far as the smaller pulley, I am wary of turning up the boost any more on my all stock engine. I should be running about 8.5lbs at sea level.

 

Don't worry about the intake until it becomes a restriction. Cam wise 222/230 LSA115+2 would work amazing. An aftermarket stall in the 2600-3000 range should drive exactly like stock with a good custom tune don't by a good professional tuner. You will want to pulley down as some new mods here will actually appear to reduce boost which really your just building efficiency.

 

My thought is if you have a blower or turbo , why restrict the opening that the engine depends on getting air from ?
My blower inlet is at least 90 and if I recall it may be 4.5" instead of 4" , so 90mm only made sense to me and installed it right off the bat .
Yes you will see gains of a larger intake tube and filter , I Fabbed up a 4.5 pipe that connects a large AFE dry flow diesel filter to my Throttle body with a 4.5"x4" reducing elbow . All I can say is it puts down the beans on the dyno

My trans runs at roughly 150-160* when romping on it , and cooler when cruising unless is like 90ish* outside then it's always around 150-160 ,
So NO heat issues with my stall , your thinking of those big Loose stalls that are like 3600-up , they have to slip a lot more than a tighter well built converter like my Precision Industries , I love this converter .

Don't be afraid to run more boost , 8.5 is nothing on a stock motor and your only cheating yourself . I rock a stock LQ4 long block as do a ton of others and if I could get more boost out of my combo I would !

This is true info right here verified by a well reputable tuner/engine builder.
" The rule of thumb for a stock LS bottom end is roughly 850ish horse power till a rod will bend , yes the rod will bend before a piston breaks on a properly tuned engine , if a piston pops before you bend a rod or at lower power levels it's not tuned right, roughly 20psi is max you want to run on a stock long block but it must be spot on tuning wise, "

This is not gospel but a good indicator of how far you can push a stock engine . Take it for what it's worth

 

On the statement made about the stock bottom end, are there certain years that can handle that. I thought stock bottoms were only good for 500hp. Good info though.