Info: 09 Silverado, 5.3, 4x4, stock powertrain, tuned, 2" front level spacer, 18" wheels, 265/65r18. (bought truck cheap with a collapsed lifter, but i fixed that and tune has DOD off)
Final goal: 450-500 hp, daily and pulling a 20ft boat/trailers on occasion.

I am wanting to do a DOD delete, and swap cam to make more power that would work with a power adder at some point. Truck leaks oil from the rear of engine (rear seal/oil pan?). I am planning on pulling the motor to fix the leak at the time of the DOD delete. Should I take this opportunity to do any other work to the motor? pistons, rings etc... I don't need a 900hp capable (will never take to the track) but I don't want to miss something worthwhile while it is pulled out.

Plans while motor is out:
New torque converter
Upgrade trans cooler
Put oil pan fitting in for future turbo plans(will seal it off)
New lifters and trays
New cam(tbd which one)
Fix oil leak(rear main seal or other)
New push rods
Springs(paired with cam)
Rocker arm trunion upgrade?

Didnt list every gasket/cam swap part.

 

Sounds like a good plan!

What gear ratio do you have? I think the guys here will need that to recommend a cam.

Are you gapping your rings for forced induction?

 

Sorry just now responding, for some reason the site wouldnt show me your reply, but saw it in my email... is odd.

You asked about gear ratio, do you mean rear dif gear ratio right? (want to make sure I am not missing something) If so, I think 3.73? it is the LT model with Z71 package.

Ring gap: Haven't gotten that far in the plan yet. is there any issue with gaping for forced induction before I get the turbo setup?

 

The gear ratio should be listed as one of the RPO codes in the glove box. For 2013 6-speed, typically 3.08 or 3.42. Only the NHT package came with 3.73s and I'm not even sure you can get that with the 5.3L.

Ring gap, I think @ 450-500hp current stock should be fine for turbo (intercooled), but going above that then it's time to starting thinking of gapping specifically for boost.

 

Yeah, not sure why that happens sometimes. Right now this thread is showing up as recent post and it says another user posted, but this is the last post showing up on my end.

Anyways, yes: rear gear axle ratio.

Excessive ring gap will cause a bit of blow-by. Not really sure what that translates to actual effect on a daily driver. Probably depends on how much gap on the rings, which depends on how much boost you are planning on running.

 

You plan on sticking with just 93 octane?
Torque converter for more stall rpm or to get a billet front cover for reliability?
Trans cooler = TruCool 40K
Remove oil pan to tap for turbo oil drain and also plug the pressure relief with a M14 oil drain plug or get one of these. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/IRP-PO-M14-KIT

Trunion upgrade. Ive got a couple customers with these with over 140k miles on them no problem. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-141560

Cam options are wide open but if you wanting to tow with it id stay on the smaller size cam shaft. For me this would be the largest i would go. https://cammotion.com/camshafts/tc-2...214-214-113-3/

Replace the timing chain tensioner as well. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ADO-12626407

Lifters and trays. https://cammotion.com/lifters/ls1-oe...16-d-12499225/
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/BTC-BTR95365-4

Dont forget the cam retainer plate too. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/BTC-BTR89016

If you are pulling the engine go ahead and replace this as well when you remove rear cover. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/MEL-MOGP-100

 

first, thanks for the info and the links, I do appreciate it.
would rather not be limited to 93, would love to not have to pay for it lol.

TC for more reliability. have thought of messing with stall rpm, but not really a priority as will be a daily.

RPO code GU6 so 3.42 gear ratio.

To my understanding, cam for the curve, then add turbo to lift it all? so for me, cam for the torque in the low end, then when i add a turbo, it should look similar, but shifted higher on the graph?
I have been info dumping on a ton of vids and sites, so am not surprised if I am wrong. I have only really started researching the past week or 2.

 

I wouldnt go no less than 89 octane for boost.
Ive tuned some turbo 5.3 and 6.0 trucks on 87 octane and the timing has to be very low for it to not detonate. Water/Meth injection was about the easiest thing to add to those since they didnt want to run 93 octane.

If you main concern is towing id just get the stock stall speed converter with billet front.
3.42s wont be bad since you have the ability to just downshift into 5th for heavier towing and use 6th for lower rpm daily driving.
My take on it is to run the cam size on the smaller end so you dont loose low rpm torque. Then let the boost take care of the rest.

In your other thread i linked to the 206/210 cam and ive used that in several DOD deletes this year and it works very good. Kip at cam motion ran the numbers for me and we agreed on the small cam for towing since the goal was to keep it in the highest gear possible and let the boost do the work.

Years ago i towed all the time with a 6.0 and Isky 215/215 turbo cam along with a S475 turbo and 3.42s with a 30.5" tire it ran 2000 rpms at 70mph and chugged along like it wasnt nothing. Ran 6-8psi boost for towing and 25psi at the track for playing. It got really good mileage back then when gasoline was decent. 24-25mpg empty and 14-16 towing.

Also size your turbo accordingly. Dont go for a 80mm when a 66mm would be ideal for towing.
Ive got a 2005 crew cab z71 here now with a 383ci 220/224 turbo cam (5.3 bored to 3.902" and 4" crankshaft) with a 75mm on 10psi. Hauled 7100# with it Saturday night to dial in the low rpms fueling and timing in boost. with cruise set it rarely got over 48% tps and 6psi boost pulling the longer hills. I think he will be happy with it now compared to a 380,000 mile 5.3 that was slobbering oil.

 

Might be worth just doing 93O to not have to do the water/meth injection lol.
I have 799 heads, is it worth getting some 706 heads? have seen some with just valves and springs for around $150 for both in the area. from what i have found, there isnt much of a difference but the 706 do edge it out bit.
Would it be worth getting them so i can assemble before I pull the engine?
also, at what point should i look at getting a new intake manifold/throttle body? I now it can make a big difference NA, but if I am going to turbo anyway....

 

I would just reuse your stock heads. 706 will raise your compression id keep it stock.

you could run 89 octane and use -20* windsheild washer fluid in the water/meth injection. or just run 93 and be done.

Stock intake and throttle body will be fine.

Your only shooting for 500hp not 2500hp. We have made 1200hp on all those stock parts.