valve train noise?
Jan 15, 2013 | 10:29 PM
#91
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I just need to confirm I need the red one
Jan 15, 2013 | 10:37 PM
#92
I didn't read the entire thread but generally LS7 lifters requires shorter pushrods. Alas, it varies from build to build and you must always check. I used 7.325" pushrods on my build with LS7 lifters for 0.075" preload. Head were milled 0.022", otherwise stocks specs.
And, Comp calls for 22 ft-lbs on the upgraded rocker kit, not 27 ft-lbs. I don't see a downside to a little extra torque, but you run the risk of pulling the threads out of the heads.
http://www.compcams.com/v002/Instruc.../COMP4-126.pdf
What oil weight are you running? I went from 5W40 to 10W30 and it quieted mine down a little bit, now I'm running 5W30.
And, Comp calls for 22 ft-lbs on the upgraded rocker kit, not 27 ft-lbs. I don't see a downside to a little extra torque, but you run the risk of pulling the threads out of the heads.
http://www.compcams.com/v002/Instruc.../COMP4-126.pdf
What oil weight are you running? I went from 5W40 to 10W30 and it quieted mine down a little bit, now I'm running 5W30.
Jan 15, 2013 | 10:46 PM
#93
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I didn't read the entire thread but generally LS7 lifters requires shorter pushrods. Alas, it varies from build to build and you must always check. I used 7.325" pushrods on my build with LS7 lifters for 0.075" preload. Head were milled 0.022", otherwise stocks specs.
And, Comp calls for 22 ft-lbs on the upgraded rocker kit, not 27 ft-lbs. I don't see a downside to a little extra torque, but you run the risk of pulling the threads out of the heads.
http://www.compcams.com/v002/Instruc.../COMP4-126.pdf
What oil weight are you running? I went from 5W40 to 10W30 and it quieted mine down a little bit, now I'm running 5W30.
And, Comp calls for 22 ft-lbs on the upgraded rocker kit, not 27 ft-lbs. I don't see a downside to a little extra torque, but you run the risk of pulling the threads out of the heads.
http://www.compcams.com/v002/Instruc.../COMP4-126.pdf
What oil weight are you running? I went from 5W40 to 10W30 and it quieted mine down a little bit, now I'm running 5W30.
I've seen the opposite about the lifters. Needing longer rods! But my new push rods are proper fitting so thats one issue down
Jan 16, 2013 | 08:21 AM
#94
LS7 lifters require .025" more preload basically which makes the pushrod that much longer. Your usual 7.4" on a stock gen 3 motor and 7.425" on gen 4 motors due to the LS7 lifter installed.
As for the "color" o ring you need, you should have went back with the same color that came out of it. If it was blue then use blue, if it was red use red, if it was orange use orange. Its an o-ring with mileage on it, its a very wise choice to replace it. Any heat causes the rubber to break down an loses its "seal" basically.
Mine is 47psi @ 50-60% throttle and 32psi @ idle (900rpm)
As for the "color" o ring you need, you should have went back with the same color that came out of it. If it was blue then use blue, if it was red use red, if it was orange use orange. Its an o-ring with mileage on it, its a very wise choice to replace it. Any heat causes the rubber to break down an loses its "seal" basically.
Mine is 47psi @ 50-60% throttle and 32psi @ idle (900rpm)
Jan 16, 2013 | 08:38 AM
#95
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LS7 lifters require .025" more preload basically which makes the pushrod that much longer. Your usual 7.4" on a stock gen 3 motor and 7.425" on gen 4 motors due to the LS7 lifter installed.
As for the "color" o ring you need, you should have went back with the same color that came out of it. If it was blue then use blue, if it was red use red, if it was orange use orange. Its an o-ring with mileage on it, its a very wise choice to replace it. Any heat causes the rubber to break down an loses its "seal" basically.
Mine is 47psi @ 50-60% throttle and 32psi @ idle (900rpm)
As for the "color" o ring you need, you should have went back with the same color that came out of it. If it was blue then use blue, if it was red use red, if it was orange use orange. Its an o-ring with mileage on it, its a very wise choice to replace it. Any heat causes the rubber to break down an loses its "seal" basically.
Mine is 47psi @ 50-60% throttle and 32psi @ idle (900rpm)
Jan 16, 2013 | 10:02 AM
#97
LS7 lifters require .025" more preload basically which makes the pushrod that much longer. Your usual 7.4" on a stock gen 3 motor and 7.425" on gen 4 motors due to the LS7 lifter installed.
As for the "color" o ring you need, you should have went back with the same color that came out of it. If it was blue then use blue, if it was red use red, if it was orange use orange. Its an o-ring with mileage on it, its a very wise choice to replace it. Any heat causes the rubber to break down an loses its "seal" basically.
Mine is 47psi @ 50-60% throttle and 32psi @ idle (900rpm)
As for the "color" o ring you need, you should have went back with the same color that came out of it. If it was blue then use blue, if it was red use red, if it was orange use orange. Its an o-ring with mileage on it, its a very wise choice to replace it. Any heat causes the rubber to break down an loses its "seal" basically.
Mine is 47psi @ 50-60% throttle and 32psi @ idle (900rpm)
If what your saying about the pushrods is true then answer this for. All LS engines after 2007 that are not a DOD lifter are a ls7 lifter. So with that said when you look in the GM catalog if you look at a 2001 LS or a 2009 LS3 or a 2010 5.3l the pushrod part number never changes (10238852) from a stock 7.400 length.....The pushrod length is not only based on lifter but also based on the base circle size of the cam, deck height of head, and deck height of the block........
Jan 16, 2013 | 10:05 AM
#98
LS7 lifters require .025" more preload basically which makes the pushrod that much longer. Your usual 7.4" on a stock gen 3 motor and 7.425" on gen 4 motors due to the LS7 lifter installed.
As for the "color" o ring you need, you should have went back with the same color that came out of it. If it was blue then use blue, if it was red use red, if it was orange use orange. Its an o-ring with mileage on it, its a very wise choice to replace it. Any heat causes the rubber to break down an loses its "seal" basically.
Mine is 47psi @ 50-60% throttle and 32psi @ idle (900rpm)
As for the "color" o ring you need, you should have went back with the same color that came out of it. If it was blue then use blue, if it was red use red, if it was orange use orange. Its an o-ring with mileage on it, its a very wise choice to replace it. Any heat causes the rubber to break down an loses its "seal" basically.
Mine is 47psi @ 50-60% throttle and 32psi @ idle (900rpm)
The shape of the LS7 lifter cup makes the pushrod sit 0.050" higher than the LS1 lifters, so a shorter pushrod is needed to achieve the same preload. Did GMT900's come with LS7 lifters fromt he factory? That could be where the confusion is coming from. My LM7 5.3L needed 0.050" shorter pushrods to achieve the same preload when switching to LS7 lifters, measured with a dial indicator on every valve.
Jan 16, 2013 | 03:13 PM
#99
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Sooooo anyways
I went and picked up the seal and oil pan gasket for $40 combined. Ill go to the shop around 3 ish.
Do you guys put the o ring in dry or should I smear vasoline on it?
I went and picked up the seal and oil pan gasket for $40 combined. Ill go to the shop around 3 ish.
Do you guys put the o ring in dry or should I smear vasoline on it?
