unplug both of these harnesses. I just rolled them down and out of the way. I removed the whole sensor from the bottom (it was a simple removal)


15mm ratchet wrench works great to remove the master cylinder
ziptie it out of the way so you can use both hands to remove the booster

 

remove the 8mm (5/16) bolt from the rack and pinion hoses. the top is the return from the cooler and the bottom (pictured) is the pressure hose.



remove the entire hose from the truck. it is a 5/8" (16mm) wrench at the rear of the pump. as you can tell GM really screwed this hose and rack design up

 

loosen the 10mm bolt that holds the clip (it will not come out of the clip) you will then use a small flat head to pry the clip open and roll it out. the clip will then be able to be removed with ease.

you will need an 18mm ratchet wrench, a deep drive 18mm socket, 3" extension, 3/8" ratchet to remove the brake pedal.

factory vs 2500hd pedal

 

15mm with a swivel, extension, cordless impact worked for me to remove the nuts for the booster. I did have to use a short ratchet to remove the top left nut though. I did not take pics of the removal.


I have installed the booster to pump hose, drilled the new hole, test fit the booster. I will have to trim a little out of the upper part of the hole due to the jam nut on the back of the booster not being "Flat" to allow the booster to sit flush. it's a simple task with a pencil grinder so I will deal with that tomorrow.


I will be going to the part store tomorrow to hopefully look at a master cylinder to see if the steel tubing will fit the booster I will need to order.

 

Everything installed. Just waiting on my master cylinder to come in now.


You can see the hole in the bracket is close to the factory hole. So IF you wanted you can cut the bottom stud off, slot the bracket more and run a bolt with a flat washer combo.


I moved the pump to booster hose off of the pump a little for safety

 

Simple splice. Should hold up just fine bc the hoses dont even have "wire cores"

 

So you need a new master cylinder because you have the trailering package? Those of us without should be able to use original master cylinder with the booster part number you supplied?

The swap looks like it is coming along well. Almost the same as the nbs trucks just having to splice the rack and pinion line.

Where did you wind up having it spliced?

 

Also did you mess around with fooling the service brakes soon message?

 

Yes i am forced to order the master cylinder due to the trailer package.
I can measure the bolt vs cylinder spread so whoever wants to do the swap can determine the booster they need. I will go to the part store an try to pull both boosters to check the differences.

I cut both hoses 1/2"-3/4" (the pic with the 2 hose ends cut off shows this) from the factory crimp that way i have enough hose. I am sure it will have plenty slack this way.

No i didnt fool with the code yet, i just started pulling it apart since i started late in the evening.

 

Didn't know you were working late. I would've stopped by and took you for a ride! Trey and I passed right by your neighborhood.

Truck pulls awesome! Ask Trey. Hehehehehehe