hahaha!

 

I feel like such an internet noob now lol

 

So I got the whole new oil cooler line assembly with both lines and a new block and after crawling under the truck and seeing transmission fluid on the transmission cooler lines, power steering pump to gearbox hose, and all the rest of the oil sprayed all over the transmission pan along with the red transmission inspection cover on the bellhousing and seeing oil everywhere along the bellhousing and on the starter side as well, I just decided to give up and knew struggling with putting this new line on just wouldn't be worth it at all.

I think I need to just pull the whole entire motor out. This would let me be able to get to the transmission cooler lines and actually take them out since I don't think I can reach them and get them out without either pulling the motor or transmission out. This would also let me take a good look at the back of the motor and see exactly what's causing so much oil to leak from it or fix it if its the rear main seal or rear cover or something like that. The best part it would also let me put a cam and 706 heads on.

This should also let me get to the steering box and change it way easier along with the lines and power steering lines. I feel like pulling the whole motor out isn't as hard as I always thought it would be?

 

Pulling the engine isn't that bad. Hell we've even done it without taking the hood off before, or standing it up, just left it in the normal up position, although I prefer to just stand it up straight.. anyway.

Did one a couple weeks ago on a 2012 1500 truck. Pulling the balancer and radiator fans makes enough room to pull the engine out without pulling any of the front end off. I pulled the wheels off the truck and lowered the lift all the way until the ball joints/rear end were on the ground to get it real low. Didn't take the hood off just unbolted the spring assist doo dads and pushed the hood straight up and held it there with a prop rod.

Un plug all the electrical connectors and lay the harness over to the side. Pull radiator hoses and heater hoses off and cooler lines (unbolt and lean to the side). Un bolt the motor mounts through the fender wells (pull the fender liners out for super easy access to the sides of the engine. Unbolt the PS pump and lean it over to the side. Unbolt the ac compressor and lean it over to the side. Pull the starter and remove the 3 torque converter bolts AND MAKE SURE THE TQ converter stays back, if it moves make sure you ensure it's all the way back before bolting the trans back up to the motor....... Unbolt the trans and pull the motor out. Be very careful the motor will get all over the radiator if you're real careful you can leave it in, but it's best to just pop the radiator out to keep it from getting damaged. Radiator is super easy to pull out...

If you're not familiar with torque converters and making sure they are all the way back on the trans input shaft (by measuring to confirm) make sure you do that before putting the motor back in. Another way to know for sure if it's right is if the tq converter can be spun around with the trans pulled all the way up to the motor, if you can't get the trans to seat all the way against the block without pulling it up with the bolts, you need to check the converter depth...

 

Thanks for the info, sorry I didn't see your reply.

So for the TC alignment, if you are putting a stock TC back in does alignment still need to be checked? You would think stock would fit back like stock. I guess even when you're putting a stock one back in you need to check just to make sure you seated the TC back up on the trans input shaft correctly. I hear this all the time about how important it is to check TC clearance. What's funny is I don't think I ever remember seeing this in the shop manual about checking TC clearance.

Also wanted to thank everyone for the help again, I officially have decided to give up on trying to fix these leaks. I also still have the new oil cooler lines I bought. There is however a good reason why I am giving up, I bought a L9H. I got a 2011 Denali with AWD, BW4485. Researching all the years and options I have come to the conclusion that a L9H flex fuel AWD Denali 6.2 seems like the best base for a "performance" truck. The biggest cons to me with this setup would be the extra weight of the GMT-900's (I think its like about 200-300 lbs more than GMT-800 and 400 lbs more than K1XX), aluminum block also seems like it might be a con for future high boost usage (a +2005 GMT-800 might have been a better option with an iron block).

But I think the L9H has a lot of pros like bigger injectors (I think at least 54 lb/hr) and higher flow fuel pump (I am assuming) that you know has guaranteed ethanol compatibility. As far as cosmetically, a K1XX looks about a thousand times better haha, but then you lose the AWD (although you can kind of do the same thing (boosted launches) with a 4WD), and have to deal with very limited and expensive GEN V aftermarket.

 

That's a good platform to start with. Not only for the bigger way better motor, but far better trans that holds more power and the 6 speed also helps with acceleration, towing, fuel mileage etc.



As for the converter. EVERY CONVERTER should be checked EVERY TIME. They're all made the same where they go on the input shaft of the trans, a stock one does not go on any easier or any different than and after market one.

There's different methods, there's the feeling for clicks/drops method which can work but is horribly inaccurate. The best way is to look up your application and see what the spec is. You take a straight edge and put it across the bellhousing of the trans and measure how far back the mounting pads are on the converter.

I pull lots of transmissions being a mechanic, so what I normally do (and I only recommend this if you're really comfortable seating converters, if you aren't MEASURE IT). During trans install I put the trans up toward the engine and as I move the trans forward I continually reach in and make sure the converter still spins freely as I move the trans closer to the engine. If the trans will pull all the way up to the engine and converter still spins freely then you're good. THERE IS SUPPOSED to be a little gap between the converter and flex plate of the engine with the trans fully seated. You bring that gap down when you put in the converter bolts, It pulls the converter forward a little bit. If the converter at ANY time hits the flex plate as your pulling the trans up to the engine it is not fully seated unless you have it at such a bad angle it causes it to hit, if the trans is straight the converter will not touch the flex plate. One way to confirm is get the trans up real close and START a few bolts, only start and then that will make sure the trans is straight then you can slowly work the trans forward and keep checking the converter. I DO NOT RECOMMNED using the bolts to pull the trans up. You should always do whatever you can to get the trans fully seated against the engine with minimal force. If you have to use the bolts you likely have wiring pinched in a or a converter not seated. If neither of those are an issue use the bolts but only after very closely confirming nothing is wedged in and the converter isn't hitting. And you need to work it forward very little, stop confirm, work forward a little, stop confirm, rinse and repeat.

Where people get into trouble is they slap the trans up there and it wont go flush against the engine block and they pull the trans up to the engine using the trans bolts. That right there is a really good sign your converter was not fully seated and you just smashed it into the pump and ruined the pump. So, if you don't measure just make sure that as you move the trans up to the engine the converter never gets bound up, if it's far enough into the trans you'll be able easily push the trans fully flush up to the block by hand and the converter will still spin freely. Then you spin it around to line up the bolt holes, put in the bolts.

I sometimes confirm people's issues with one question. Did the trans go all the way or did you have to put bolts in it to force it up all the way.


In SOME situations, not many, with an after market converter you'll have a little too much gap and put a washer in between the converter and flex plate to help make up the space and keep from pulling the converter too far forward out of the trans

But you'll never have a situation where the converter is smashed against the flex plate, and it be right. There should always be a gap between the converter and flex plate, or the ability to have a gap by pushing the converter back with the bolts out of it (the bolts that go throught the flex plate into the converter)

 

Thanks for the info. Good to know I am about to be putting a Circle D in my Camaro.

Now I get to play this game again haha. It honestly looks almost like the exact same situation with oil in the exact same places. I was about to buy a pair of new oil cooler lines, but then after looking at the crimp on them, I don't see any oil, they are dirty I presume from the oil leaking from somewhere else and getting dirt and dust on them, but it just doesn't seem like they are leaking to me. Also I feel like if they were in fact leaking, I would see drips of oil on the lowest part of the lines at the rubber hose part. I guess the first thing I need to check is the oil pressure sensor, then I guess it could be the oil pan gasket, the GMT900 looks like it might be a little easier to remove the front diff out of the way.

 

GMT900 front diff is super easy to remove. And not very heavy either.

 

How long does oil continue to drip (yes that's a loaded question) ... Trying the easy stuff first, I have changed the valve cover gaskets, the o-rings on the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors (using the ones on eBay that are supposedly the correct ones), and the oil pressure sending unit. I also resealed the oil cooler blockoff plate. I still have some oil dropping from the bellhousing (I think) and some still getting on the starter bolts, though the side by the crank position sensor seems to be not leaking ... so I am wondering if I just have a ton of oil in the bellhousing looking for a home ...

Interestingly, the bottom of the engine is pretty damn clean except for the dripping off.

By the way ... longtime reader, first-time poster. I have a '99 Silverado LT with the 5.3. About 226,000 miles.

Thank you!

Richard

[QUOTE=00pooterSS;5492757]Use caution there, oil collects in little holes in the bellhousing etc and will continue to seep after the leak has stopped. I had a car that kept dripping after an oil leak repair and had to end up drilling holes in a couple places to release trapped oil.

 

It can drip for quite a while or at least show to be wet.

One drop of oil can spread out to a quarter size spot pretty easily so it doesn't take much.

If you haven't done an oil pan gasket do one of those next, they are notorious for leaking