Basically I have from November 26 or 27th until December 14 or 15th to install, test/tune, troubleshoot, and rework the truck.

It sounds like a lot of time(roughly 18 days) but I'm sure those days will go fast. Any advices from you guys that have done these big disassemblies and resembles? any tools/equipment I'll need doubles of? etc etc?

 

What are you doing to it? I think I missed that part....

 

putting a lotta horses in a small pen

 

sorry grippy can't help, i have my own project now to restore.

 

I assume this is the heads/cam/122 swap you're referring to?

 

Take a 3-4 day weekend and insist you can't be bothered. Lock yourself in the garage or something. I always like to make a list of things I need to do in the order I need to do them. When I finish something, I cross it off, so it makes me feel like I'm actually accomplishing something. It makes the experience more enjoyable.

 

Do you have the tools to pull and install the harmonic balancer? ... same for crank sprocket if changing the timing chain kit?... crank lock? Are you going to use an ARP crank bolt or factory bolt? The factory bolt requires torque to yield (use of a degree wheel). I highly recommend the Permatex Red Threadlocker for any crank bolt you use... I like using the Permatex Blue Threadlocker on the cam bolts. Are you going to pin the crank? Got the pin kit? Will the pin kit hub fit in the new 8-rib balancer you have?
Are you going to check (degree) the cam on installation? ARP Head studs or GM Torque to yield head bolts? Same degree wheel needed for GM head bolts if used. FWIW... I really like using a thread chaser for the block head bolt holes... cleans out the orange rubbery crap GM puts on their head bolts... which can cause false torque readings unless cleaned out.
New water pump gaskets? Maybe not necessary but I always like using new ones. If you are changing the crank sprocket the oil pump has to come off... got a new o-ring for the pickup tube?... I always like using a new one there.

I'll stop here for now... that should be enough questions

Bill

 

I'll be using ARP Head Studs
I have the OTC puller for the crank damper
I am pinning the crank and it will work with my balancer
yes will degree cam
various threadlockers-check
various gasket materials-check
New water pump gaskets came with the evans wp

don't have an O-Ring for the dipstick-but I do have several O-ring kits, is it a special kind? like a viton?

 

Its the GM kind ... I'll get one for ya. They don't feel like Viton or Buna rubber... more like Silicone. And they are blue... so gotta have the right color too

Bill

 

Power steering pulley puller?

I didnt think you could install head studs while the motor is in the truck? The back head bolts driver side are going to be a HUGE PITA. It was tight getting my arp headbolts out. Im not sure if the head studs are longer I believe they are which will make it a bit tight. You will most definately have to put the head on the motor and slide the rears in. Might pick up a new oil pump o-ring. Cheater bar to tighten the crank bolt. I think you are installing a PI converter too right? If so pull the trans and throw a breaker bar through one of the slots and you can wedge it up against the starter boss. You will need and inch # tq wrench for the oil pan. Also get you a bunch of catch pans for the antifreeze. Thats all I can think of for now. Hope it all goes well for you

I dont think mine has an o-ring on the dipstick tube

That may be the cause of all my problems