My "No Shit" Install schedule
11-09-2006, 09:39 PM
#11
Staging Lane
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Location: Central FL
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Originally Posted by moregrip
I'll be using ARP Head Studs
I have the OTC puller for the crank damper
I am pinning the crank and it will work with my balancer
yes will degree cam
various threadlockers-check
various gasket materials-check
New water pump gaskets came with the evans wp
don't have an O-Ring for the dipstick-but I do have several O-ring kits, is it a special kind? like a viton?
I have the OTC puller for the crank damper
I am pinning the crank and it will work with my balancer
yes will degree cam
various threadlockers-check
various gasket materials-check
New water pump gaskets came with the evans wp
don't have an O-Ring for the dipstick-but I do have several O-ring kits, is it a special kind? like a viton?
11-10-2006, 01:33 AM
#13
Sexy Party Mod
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Location: Spring, Texas
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I got one peice of advice....DONT BREAK A HEADBOLT OFF IN THE BLOCK!!!!
I did it this past weekend and ended up buying a new shortblock and swapping everything over. My pocketbook just took an assraping! I broke it off taking the heads off. WTF? Oh well, just a word of the wise.
I did it this past weekend and ended up buying a new shortblock and swapping everything over. My pocketbook just took an assraping! I broke it off taking the heads off. WTF? Oh well, just a word of the wise.
11-10-2006, 09:51 AM
#15
Originally Posted by 1slow01Z71
Power steering pulley puller?
Originally Posted by 1slow01Z71
I didnt think you could install head studs while the motor is in the truck? The back head bolts driver side are going to be a HUGE PITA. It was tight getting my arp headbolts out. Im not sure if the head studs are longer I believe they are which will make it a bit tight. You will most definately have to put the head on the motor and slide the rears in.
on the 2500HD chassis I have much more clearance, I'm hoping it's enough but if the tranny goes out for a rebuild I may just put the motor on an engine stand....
Originally Posted by 1slow01Z71
Might pick up a new oil pump o-ring.
Originally Posted by 1slow01Z71
Cheater bar to tighten the crank bolt. I think you are installing a PI converter too right? If so pull the trans and throw a breaker bar through one of the slots and you can wedge it up against the starter boss. You will need and inch # tq wrench for the oil pan. Also get you a bunch of catch pans for the antifreeze. Thats all I can think of for now. Hope it all goes well for you
I dont think mine has an o-ring on the dipstick tube
That may be the cause of all my problems
I dont think mine has an o-ring on the dipstick tube
That may be the cause of all my problems
I'm good on catch cans(I use a plastic cement mixing tub)
did you use the pry bar to seperate the tranny from the engine? What did you use to support the engine with the tranny out?
11-10-2006, 08:01 PM
#18
Grip on getting the trans out:
I have a floor jack with the trans adapter but using a regular floor jack works fine. I get the trans crossmember out of the way, unbolt the trans and tc then jack the trans up using a little piece of plywood so I dont dent the pan, when you jack it up it will break the bellhousing off teh block if it is stuck. Mine just slides out after all the times its been pulled
I believe the 80e bellhousing has the bottom missing when compared to a 60e housing correct? If so you could always throw a pry bar up in there to pop it loose. If the trans is stuck to the block I highly recommend keeping a couple bolts through the bellhousing but almost all the way threaded out so when it does break apart the trans doesnt go flying(that was a fun experience
)
The motor will hold itself just fine on the motor mounts no need to support it for anything unless you just want to. I left my motor sitting without the trans in the truck for about two weeks and there is nothing wrong with my motor mounts.
You are going to need some way to keep the power steering pulley from turning while tightening down on it to pop the pulley off. I use a 2 1/2 foot pry bar to wedge between the pulley and the accessorie bracket to keep it from turning. Its not easy but seems to work well.
Can you tell I like pry bars?
I have a floor jack with the trans adapter but using a regular floor jack works fine. I get the trans crossmember out of the way, unbolt the trans and tc then jack the trans up using a little piece of plywood so I dont dent the pan, when you jack it up it will break the bellhousing off teh block if it is stuck. Mine just slides out after all the times its been pulled
I believe the 80e bellhousing has the bottom missing when compared to a 60e housing correct? If so you could always throw a pry bar up in there to pop it loose. If the trans is stuck to the block I highly recommend keeping a couple bolts through the bellhousing but almost all the way threaded out so when it does break apart the trans doesnt go flying(that was a fun experience
)The motor will hold itself just fine on the motor mounts no need to support it for anything unless you just want to. I left my motor sitting without the trans in the truck for about two weeks and there is nothing wrong with my motor mounts.
You are going to need some way to keep the power steering pulley from turning while tightening down on it to pop the pulley off. I use a 2 1/2 foot pry bar to wedge between the pulley and the accessorie bracket to keep it from turning. Its not easy but seems to work well.
Can you tell I like pry bars?
11-10-2006, 08:57 PM
#19
Originally Posted by 1slow01Z71
Grip on getting the trans out:
I have a floor jack with the trans adapter but using a regular floor jack works fine. I get the trans crossmember out of the way, unbolt the trans and tc then jack the trans up using a little piece of plywood so I dont dent the pan, when you jack it up it will break the bellhousing off teh block if it is stuck. Mine just slides out after all the times its been pulled
I believe the 80e bellhousing has the bottom missing when compared to a 60e housing correct? If so you could always throw a pry bar up in there to pop it loose. If the trans is stuck to the block I highly recommend keeping a couple bolts through the bellhousing but almost all the way threaded out so when it does break apart the trans doesnt go flying(that was a fun experience )
The motor will hold itself just fine on the motor mounts no need to support it for anything unless you just want to. I left my motor sitting without the trans in the truck for about two weeks and there is nothing wrong with my motor mounts.
You are going to need some way to keep the power steering pulley from turning while tightening down on it to pop the pulley off. I use a 2 1/2 foot pry bar to wedge between the pulley and the accessorie bracket to keep it from turning. Its not easy but seems to work well.
Can you tell I like pry bars?
I have a floor jack with the trans adapter but using a regular floor jack works fine. I get the trans crossmember out of the way, unbolt the trans and tc then jack the trans up using a little piece of plywood so I dont dent the pan, when you jack it up it will break the bellhousing off teh block if it is stuck. Mine just slides out after all the times its been pulled
I believe the 80e bellhousing has the bottom missing when compared to a 60e housing correct? If so you could always throw a pry bar up in there to pop it loose. If the trans is stuck to the block I highly recommend keeping a couple bolts through the bellhousing but almost all the way threaded out so when it does break apart the trans doesnt go flying(that was a fun experience
)The motor will hold itself just fine on the motor mounts no need to support it for anything unless you just want to. I left my motor sitting without the trans in the truck for about two weeks and there is nothing wrong with my motor mounts.
You are going to need some way to keep the power steering pulley from turning while tightening down on it to pop the pulley off. I use a 2 1/2 foot pry bar to wedge between the pulley and the accessorie bracket to keep it from turning. Its not easy but seems to work well.
Can you tell I like pry bars?
