Ok, so I have never messed with E-fans before this truck. I don't mind them running when it is hot out, but they run when it is down in the 30s and my truck is barely had time to warm up and isn't doing anything but idling. My temp switch is past 210 most of the time but it usually stays pretty steady. My coolant level is good and everything is working like it should, it is just starting to get colder and it is starting to get on my nerves.

What do you think I can do to get it under control? Thermostat? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

What aftermarket E-Fans would you all reccomend for a half ton? I tow a fair ammount of things, but most importantly it gets supper hot down here in the summer and I would like to have something a little quieter and more efficient.

Thanks guys & girls!!!

 

The fans will still come on in the winter, especially if the truck does a lot of idling since there is no airflow across the radiator while it idles. Not sure what you mean by "temp switch", but that leads me to ask what your fan turn on temps are and if they're possibly turning on too soon? Just noticed your sig says that you have an 05...so I'm guessing that these are the factory fans and settings? Are you running the defroster which engages the compressor and/or fans? Also, has the coolant been changed recently which may lead to an air pocket in the system?

As for aftermarket fans...the factory 05 efan/34" radiator combo is the best option out there IMO.

 

Have you or can you log your engine coolant temp? My dash gauge say the engine is at 210 deg but on efilive its saying 196 most of the time. Stock gauges are wayy off

 

Yea stock gauge wont move past 210 till the coolant gets up to 240*.

If your HVAC is on, the AC Compressor is gonna kick on sometimes to dehumidify the air for defrost or other things. So if the PCM is requesting for the AC, the fans will turn on and off with the AC pressure.

I have mine setup where the fans wont come on if the coolant temp is below 50*. Once it passes 50* then the AC request will turn them on if need be.

Hope that sheds some light on your issue.

 

If you think the tstat is bad take it out and put it in a pot of water on the stove and raise the temp and measure with a thermometer to see if it opens.

 

And theres the simple solution!
Why didnt i think of that...

 

Sounds normal to me.

 

I'd agree but,the fact he is noticing a change in fan run time makes me wonder if the coolant systems under added strain.I think Atomic smacked the nail head with a malfunctioning thermostat.

 

I apologize, I meant temp gauge. Mis-type. They are factory fans & radiator. I haven't run the defroster yet, however that is a good point that I forgot about. I flushed the coolant a year ago but I did not see any change in behavior from before to after. Maybe I am just being picky.

Well if you say it's the best setup, than It's good enough for me!!

I have not. Sounds like I need to have a little tuning done to see if I am just paranoid.


It sure does thank you.



Ok that's good to hear. Thanks everyone for your help and advice.

I'll pull the thermostat and check it out. Would it hurt to just put a new one in? Any brand that is better than others that you all like?

 

****, if I was going to pull it to test it, I'd just replace it anyway, especially since you're an 05 and have the less expensive stat than the 99-03's with the housing. I'd still do as Atomic said though and test it for piece of mind. Most of the time, t-stats will fail in the full open position and it will take forever for the heat to come up in the cab, if it does at all. The engine may never get up to full temp in the winter, and TCC lockup will not occur. Less frequently, t-stats will seize shut and not open at all, and the end result will be overheating, which is very easy to diagnose by checking the lower hose to see if it gets hot or not. It's very rare for a t-stat to get "weak" or open at the wrong temp, at least in my experience. I have seen t-stats break apart and cause issues also...sometimes they corrode, or the little welds break and you end up with a non-functioning, 2-piece stat.

As for t-stat brands, if you're sticking with the factory temp, I'd just go with a factory stat.