I did something I probably shouldn't have, and bought another pickup off an auction. I found a 2000 C2500 with the 6.0 and NV4500 that I wanted to swap into my 02 reg cab. I thought I got a great deal on it, and after having it shipped, this thing looks about as suspicious as the faded ticket and packages with different address and names in the bed (I'm thinking they were a porch pirate). I bought it cheap enough that even if the engine and trans needed rebuilt it would still be worth it.

I found three different temp tags over the last year, from three different dealerships (at least). The bed was replaced, and then rattle canned over most of the pickup to cover it. There are extra switches, cut wires, the small ground wire off the negative batt terminal is disconnected (first fix). I'm going to pull the engine and trans along with what I could use for the swap, and then sell the rest as a roller/ chassis (with a clear title). Unless I can find someone who wants it right away, I'll probably pull a few things and take pick n pull scrap prices for it to get it out right away. Its got a multicolored hood, no plates, and my HOA doesn't allow it. I really don't want it sitting in my driveway for long. I measured it, and if I pull both bumpers off, I think I will have 2" to fit it in my garage. If I can't get it running to pull it in there, I'm literally going to have to pay tow truck to move it 20 feet (up a 2 percent grade driveway).

Its got 190K on it. I used my battery and it cranks over great. I'm getting 40 psi oil pressure at cranking. It looks like my fuel pressure is really low at the relief valve, but we couldn't get it to fire with carb cleaner in the TB. The place where I got it from was under the impression the fuel was ran empty. I thought so too. I added 4 gallons to the tank, and the low fuel light was still on (while parked at an incline). The fuel doesn't smell bad. Really no clue how long it has been sitting, but it was registered a few months ago. I would REALLY like to see if I can get it running so I can see how it is, how the trans is, so I can be honest about how the chassis and suspension are, but I really don't want to put any money into it only to pull a few things and then get rid of the rest. I checked the relays and fuses, and now I'm going to start searching on how to fix or diagnose this. That's the extent of on hand knowledge, now I need to start searching and reading. My neighbor knows a mobile mechanic he was going to text, and so that is my backup at the moment.

Because of budget, I'm honestly not sure of my 6.0 plans at the moment. AT THE MOST it would still be a budget build with a: rebuilt bottom end with gen iv rods and pistons, cam, 'better heads', TBSS intake and tune, (just a fun daily driver). The NV4500 would be nice to rebuild, but I probably won't if I can drive it and it seems fine. There's always a chance I pull this and sell it to recoup, and then keep the transmission.

I really don't want to put any money into this truck, but a quick drive around would tell me a lot. How far would it be worth even going to try to get this running. Would I almost guaranteed going to need special tools. Can anyone offer where I need to go from here? I just got in, and need to start reading and searching on my next steps over the weekend. THANK YOU.

 

holy crap, what an adventure!
i'd seafoam it real good if you get it running consistently.

being a 2000, that one would have the longer crank (using a thinner flywheel) & iron heads. some 862s would wake it right up for real cheap.
the trans has the same 32spline output & case length as the nv3500 (at least on the 4x4 version... guessing same with 2wd) that you should be able to reuse your drive shaft. you will have to change the reverse switch wiring on the harness.
the clutch will be a slight franken-kit because the hydraulics are different between the two trucks: your current slave should carry over to the nv4500, but you'll need the clutch plate/disk for the 2500.
the gearing's wildly different than the nv3500, and in a light 2wd 1/2ton, i hope you've got a 3.42 or 3.23 rear end.
i'd also recommend the Core shifter (though it's expensive) - just make sure you get the one matching your nv4500 lid height (yours is likely be the taller version, but the shorter lid would make install easier in your truck considering it ain't got the 2" HD body lift.)

 

but assuming you ain't puling trailers or 4-wheeling it on 35s, your nv3500 would be perfectly fine behind a mild 6.0 - you'd just have to use that thinner 6.0 flywheel, and that's about it.

even the Joe Gibbs trucks ran bone stock nv3500s on their blown 4.8s with a warranty (invalidating the claim that the 5.3 was 'too torquey' for that manual trans ).
there's another dude who ran a 454 big block on his... followed by an 8.1 vortec... followed by a turbo 8.1... followed by a twin turbo 8.1 before finally breaking it. the only reason me & Dan burnt ours up was from pulling heavy trailers too fast in OD.

 

oh, and you'll have to turn the trans crossmember 180° to run it under the nv4500 (i.e., driver's side to passenger).

 

If you're planning on a rebuild from the get-go, I would try to start it

put fresh fuel in it, check the oil, make sure it has coolant and crank her up

the interior wiring is a bummer, but not likely to keep that thing from starting. Check fuses for injectors, pump, ignition systems

verify the fuel pump relay works

crank the key and let us know how it goes! Congrats on the score!

 

Yeah, I'd still like to know why the NV3500 in the dodge is rated at 350 ft lbs, and in the Silverado its 310.

AFAI K, the NV4500 is the same from 2000-2006, I think its 98-06

I have 3.42, and that was one of the biggest selling points. With how I drive, I think the NV4500 gears are going to be outstanding.

I have 265/70/17s and may eventually do the equivalent in 18s, but that would be it. I want to be able to tow a full size vehicle on a car hauler trailer (if I ever need to). It sounds like, if that day comes: just keep the revs up, spend some gas, and save a trans.

Yeah, the heads are iron and don't have the casting in the same place I know to look for it. I have 862s on my 4.8 now. That seems like the best place to get em from depending on if I do those first, or rebuild before install.

I wasn't sure on if there were clearance issues or not.

I will have to look and see what the thinner flywheel downfalls might be.


I should have included that. Brake fluid looked nasty, but oil was good level and color. Coolant overflow looked clear, but definitely smelled like coolant and good level. Checked the fuses, and when I found a loose relay in the fuse box, I went and pulled my matching relay out of my pickup to make sure.

I should take a picture of what it is wired too, I'm sure someone knows.

 

Thicker wires and the top clip slides. I'm wondering if its some kind of DUI device.

If you know this truck:
1. I'm glad I changed from on base to my house at the last minute. I don't know what the gate guards would have done when they would have inspected it and found your home made bong in the back.
2. I don't know how long this thing sat, but everything in the cab melted (your window visors were wavy), and everything in the bed (that was 1/3rd filled with water) was disgusting and either soaking in water or covered in mold if it wasn't. There were roaches breeding back there along with several other insects. Considering most of that was on you, YOU'RE GROSS.
3. Quite a few packages with different names and addresses. Looks like you're a porch pirate.
4. There was very little "stuff" that was salvageable. I have your pack of bits, $1.53, and some tape I hope still works, the rest is trash or goodwill. Your makeup was all melted, anything with fabric was ruined, and your vape crap was just taking up room in my trash can.
5. Were you on drugs, or just using left over cans of spray paint when you made this thing 9 different colors?

If I bid sniped you on this, You might want to consider yourself lucky. This smokers interior makes me stink after sitting in it for 5 seconds. The suspension is almost completely bad, some surface rust on the frame, all the body is bad, the bedcover is junk. I might get the engine, transmission, a hydroboost that needs rebuilt, it has good glass, and the chassis MIGHT be of use to somebody. The torn up bumper and headache rack might be of use to somebody. The rest, and possibly even some of that is scrap.

 

oh, that's some good stuff!

the "thinner" flywheel is because in 99-00, the manual trans LR4s and all LQ4s had a longer rear crankshaft flange (1.25" vs the normal .857"), so the flywheels & flexplates were different to compensate and correctly mate to the clutches, torque converters, & starters at the right depth.

the dodge nv3500s had a different input shaft & gearing, resulting in different torque ratings (still underrated).

there were a number of variants of nv4500: the earliest had an external slave, right after that changed gearing ratios, (aside from the early dodge-only cover) the top covers also changed to accommodate the GMT800 HD body height over the GMT-400 & -800 LD. you can still use either one of the GM versions in your truck, however, the shorter one for the 95-00 will fit a little easier; that's all.

 

and looking again at that picture again, yours might actually have the shorter lid because i think 2001 is when the revised HD look added the body lift to accommodate the duramax/allison combo

 

and i'm pretty sure even the early LQ4s had dished pistons (compared to your LR4 flat-tops), so the heads should swap over fine.