what to do to get temps down more
#14
Originally Posted by Yelo
Y'all aren't REALLY trusting the factory temp gauge are you ?????, THAT thing is so far off it's not funny....
Ya, I realized that when I finally got around to doing some logs the other day day. 5 consecutive runs to 90mph and then 20 min in stop and go and it never went over 185* (tranny temp gauge was showing like 215*). I just realized I have a 34" radiator stock on my Tahoe
. Finally, a nice surprise.
#15
heck yay man them factory gauges i figure only have to be within about 10% of the actual readings. while doing logging my gauge shows 180 to 185 and the reading is actually 165 to 172.
#16
Hey guys, think about this. GM actually wants your truck to run about 210-215F for two really good reasons. First, your piston-to-wall is designed to be correct at this operating temp. If the block is too cool the aluminum piston is expanding twice as fast as the sleeve, you don't have enough p to w. This is because the bores are not as big at lower temps as at higher temps. That causes piston scuffing. Secondly, if your oil temp isn't above the boiling point of water, you aren't going to boil the humidity out of your oil and that causes "sludge"--(it isn't caused by Quaker State). If there is dew on the grass, you better believe there is water vapor in your oil. It's crazy to spend money on Mobil 1 or Royal Purple and then have the lubricity compromised by water contamination. You need to run the engine long enough at high enough temp to boil the water vapor out of your oil. That's why short trips that never allow your engine to warm up are so hard on your engine. If your car runs better at a cooler operating temp at WOT, try using a heat range colder plug, the stock plugs are selected for emissions first and performance second. BTW, haven't you noticed that the NASCAR guys seem to like temps in the 210-215 range and they aren't concerned enough to stop even when their engines get to 250F. They are also running extremely low oil pressures as well.
#17
Originally Posted by QuietTahoe
Hey guys, think about this. GM actually wants your truck to run about 210-215F for two really good reasons.
To much aluminum, cast iron and tight tolerances for me to mess with the base operating temperature of the engine.
Yes you can change the temperatures up and down in the PCM. I turn mine on at 198 off at 192. Remember this is setting for the colant in the radiator. The thermostat controls the temperature in the engine block. I am gradually gonna raise these temps once hot weather comes on so as not to cool the engine to much when the thermosat opens. Stock 05 PCM has Stage 1 on at 226 off at 219. Stage 2 on 235 off at 227.
I wouldn't put in a 160.
#18
Originally Posted by QuietTahoe
Hey guys, think about this. GM actually wants your truck to run about 210-215F for two really good reasons. First, your piston-to-wall is designed to be correct at this operating temp. If the block is too cool the aluminum piston is expanding twice as fast as the sleeve, you don't have enough p to w. This is because the bores are not as big at lower temps as at higher temps. That causes piston scuffing. Secondly, if your oil temp isn't above the boiling point of water, you aren't going to boil the humidity out of your oil and that causes "sludge"--(it isn't caused by Quaker State). If there is dew on the grass, you better believe there is water vapor in your oil. It's crazy to spend money on Mobil 1 or Royal Purple and then have the lubricity compromised by water contamination. You need to run the engine long enough at high enough temp to boil the water vapor out of your oil. That's why short trips that never allow your engine to warm up are so hard on your engine. If your car runs better at a cooler operating temp at WOT, try using a heat range colder plug, the stock plugs are selected for emissions first and performance second. BTW, haven't you noticed that the NASCAR guys seem to like temps in the 210-215 range and they aren't concerned enough to stop even when their engines get to 250F. They are also running extremely low oil pressures as well.
Im glad to see other people understand this
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