Please get some video with good sound. Words can't say how jealous I am.

 

Hmm...seems I remember someone in your last thread mentioning something about that...now who could it have been...

 

that nitrous was a 2 stage, 75wet, 75dry, my stall was too tight to run more than a 75 out of the hole, i tried and got a nice backfire.

so far the best fix for maxing the maf that i have heard is a piggy back "black box" that can overide the stock injectors and add fuel but it only kicks in at WOT, it uses a 3 bar map sensor and some other stuff to figure out how much extra fuel to add. sounds like a great idea but it isn't avaliable just yet.

check this out, Seth saw this post and called me to get some impresions, we talked for about an hour and that guy was still at work, i think it is 8pm there , i regularly call him at what would be 8am there , he told me a few things that really have me pumped up, stuff i didn't realize.

not sure who knows about my stall delema but yank sent me a stall what was too loose, i sent it back to get tightened up, i also put in a big cam at the same time and between the 2 mods i really killed my low end, the truck is way way slower than before down low but pulls strong up top. the stall and cam were sized for a 409 so it makes some sence. i figured the turbo wouldn't change things all that much, still probably be soft on the bottom and pull like mad up top. Seth says it wont be like that at all, says i will see killer torqe down low, says this cam was made for a turbo and that is part of the reason it is dogy down low and with a turbo it will rock down low.

if that is true i could see some crazy ET's. for perspective i ran a best of 12.77 at 8psi in my last truck, this truck is 400lb's lighter, no belt to run and an intercooler so more boost, maybe alot more boost. sounds like easy 11's to me with a 6.0 and boost only, time will tell, sounds like it will be a couple of weeks before i get the exhaust parts i need to run my front drive shaft but it will probably take me that long to get most of the bugs worked out and some tuning done. i can still dyno it, might have to do that next weekend.

 

Seems like you'd want a tighter stall due to the fact that the turbo is load dependant, not RPM dependant. If you rev it all the way to redline in neutral, you wont see the same boost as you would at 5000rpm in 4th, hence the reason you will now want to run everyone from a punch at highway speeds

 

How come your coils look so much different than mine btw?

 

Pro-M does make a MAF that's supposed to work,you buy it with a calibrator and software,they scale the MAF to the size injectors you are running then load the calibration on a disk then you download the calibration into the calibrator when you install your MAF/calibrator combo,then they suggest that you tune it further with a wideband O2 sensor.You can scale any combination you like on your laptop.The setup I ordered is supposed to be good for 800+hp.They also make bigger setups some are good for 1200+hp.

 

Kick a$$ it's alive, sort of. I think the 90* boot mudz5.3 mentioned sounds like a good idea if they will fit. That would definitely move those wires more inboard.

Don't you love the flood of questions about everything -even when you have just installed it and not even had a chance to tune

You are a lucky man to not have to worry about using belts to make boost. 14psi on pump junk lucky ba$t@r#

 

Find some lightnings and fk em up on video. I need to show a few 5.0 fox dorks some chevy truck performance.

FMI, why does it seem like turbos can run more boost without detonation than superchargers? Is it because there is less load?

 

i dont think you can just because it is a turbo, from what i understand in my case and seths case it is because of the cam.

 

Grats man!

I just found out yesterday my loan went through so I'll be ordering my kit late next week.

As for the cam what did you go with? I am thinking of going with a 224/220/.535/115 or something to that effect. All I know is I was told to go with zero overlap. LOL