tranny tune up
#1
sunday im gunna install my B&M tranny super cooler. i have 37,000 miles and thought i should change the fluid and filter. im thinking of goin synthetic. i run mobile 1 in my engine, do they carry tranny fluid too? do i need a new gasket for the pan??? anything else i should know? ive only done this once and it was a while ago...hope i still remember
#2
Nonono synthetic in the stock trans. It will make it slip badly as it is too slippery as the friction stuff in the ATF is absent. I dunno if I'd change the filter/screen thing or not. I read that the little O-ring on the filter is a PITA to change correctly. That filter/screen just keeps crap from getting inside the valve body when driving, but all settles on the pan bottom anyway...so in reality it never really gets dirty. Just change the fluid in the pan (about 5-6qts) every 12000-15000mi and you should be m'kay.
Go with some quality Dexron III ATF, like Valvoline or Pennzoil...besides being cheaper than synthetic ATF, it has more detergents in it too. I think the pan has a drain plug built in, my Z71 does maybe b/c it is deeper by 1 qt than the others, but hell if I know. You only will need a gasket if you drop the pan. If you do drop the pan take all of the bolts out but one in the back of the pan. That will allow it to drain easier. Hopefully you will have a drain plug makes changes sooooo much cleaner.
Oh yeah, if the pan comes off make sure you install that gasket DRY. Make sure both surfaces are completely dry from ATF. Get you a wad of those Blue shop towels to help out, ATF tastes bad and burns like a ***** in the eye...wear safety glasses. I will get the pan torque specs when I go home this afternoon and post them up.
Go with some quality Dexron III ATF, like Valvoline or Pennzoil...besides being cheaper than synthetic ATF, it has more detergents in it too. I think the pan has a drain plug built in, my Z71 does maybe b/c it is deeper by 1 qt than the others, but hell if I know. You only will need a gasket if you drop the pan. If you do drop the pan take all of the bolts out but one in the back of the pan. That will allow it to drain easier. Hopefully you will have a drain plug makes changes sooooo much cleaner.
Oh yeah, if the pan comes off make sure you install that gasket DRY. Make sure both surfaces are completely dry from ATF. Get you a wad of those Blue shop towels to help out, ATF tastes bad and burns like a ***** in the eye...wear safety glasses. I will get the pan torque specs when I go home this afternoon and post them up.
#3
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As hit man said transmission filter isn't a filter its a 400 micron screen. I don't think I will change another transmission filter again. Yeah and that 0 ring if you use a radiator hose tool to remove it you will scratch the area its sealing and then you will overtime ruin your trans from cavitation.
#4
The torque specs I got are 8 ft/lbs or 96 in/lbs. If you don't have a torque wrench just use a speed handle and go hand tight plus a bit more....maybe like a 1/4 turn. Just use your best judgement there.
I forgot to say my WRX has an external screw on filter similar to the Allison 1000 trans. Those both also have drain plugs in the pan too.
If you really need an actual filter, get a remote filter kit and get a high quality oil filter for it.
I forgot to say my WRX has an external screw on filter similar to the Allison 1000 trans. Those both also have drain plugs in the pan too.
If you really need an actual filter, get a remote filter kit and get a high quality oil filter for it.
#5
for a torque wrench my friend has this one, but i would think it not very accurate.

i think i do have a drain plug. its the allen wrench kind right? so about 5-6 quarts with the cooler? i think im gunna drain, drop the pan, and clean it off. i have a 2WD so im guessin i dont have the deeper pan, just in case they asked at the autoparts.
thanx alot for the responses

i think i do have a drain plug. its the allen wrench kind right? so about 5-6 quarts with the cooler? i think im gunna drain, drop the pan, and clean it off. i have a 2WD so im guessin i dont have the deeper pan, just in case they asked at the autoparts.
thanx alot for the responses
#6
Hey if you guys ever want to change the filter and can't get the Oring out, you can do what I do. Just pull the new Oring off and toss it, and shove the filter up into the old Oring. I an on my 3rd filter and still the factory Oring
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#8
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Hey Tokez that torque wrench is the most accurate torque wrench available and from my knowledge doesn't need to be recalibrated. In all the repair manuals I go through I never see a picture of a beam torque wrench only the one you show. Beam style ones are just good cause you set the torque and click etc. Course the snap on guy shows us a digital torque wrench... and expects us to cough up the $350bucks.
And yeah crashdude I only replaced the 0 ring a few times and since then for everyone that has wanted a filter I havn't taken out the 0 rings for about a year now and none of thoes cars have come back, so I guess it still seals well enough.
And yeah crashdude I only replaced the 0 ring a few times and since then for everyone that has wanted a filter I havn't taken out the 0 rings for about a year now and none of thoes cars have come back, so I guess it still seals well enough.
#9
dunno yet 
i had seen it at kragen autoparts for $50 but it was the 19,000 GVW and i wanted the 24,000 GVW cooler. the 24,000 was $70 but i friend there said he would buy it for me with his discount, he said it would be a lil over $50. the model # for the 24,000 GVW is: BMM-70264

i had seen it at kragen autoparts for $50 but it was the 19,000 GVW and i wanted the 24,000 GVW cooler. the 24,000 was $70 but i friend there said he would buy it for me with his discount, he said it would be a lil over $50. the model # for the 24,000 GVW is: BMM-70264
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