3.5 yrs ago with nothing more then a K&N filter, flowmaster muffer, 373 factory gearing, full weight LS model RCSB 02 silverado with the 5.3 and 15,xxx miles on 235/75/16 goodyear ST [stock tire] i ran a 14.6 @ 94 mph with a 2.1 60' i only had truck 8 months and second time ever at track with it

so with those little mods done im sure a modded 4x4 could hit high 14s with ease

 

keep in mind i have something around 800lbs on you haha


what exactly does a stall do? does it affect your gas mileage?

 

A stall allows you to get your RPMs up higher on an automatic trans while holding still. It will get you a harder launch, thus leading to a quicker 60' time.

Mild stalls you will barely notice. If you get some of these higher stalls, like a 3600 RPM or higher, you will def start noticing them. There are a couple of guys who have 3200 stalls and say they don't affect daily driving and one or two that have 3600s that say they notice them a bit when pulling out.

If you get a stall converter, you will want/need to get a trans cooler if your truck does not already have one.

You can actually test your vehicle out and determine how much higher you want to go. Sit at a stop and hold the brake with your left foot and hold it for a moment. You want to use a little pressure so that it's nice and tight on the wheels. Next, push on the thottle and try to hold the truck in place. The highest RPM you can hit while still at a stop is where your current stall is.

 

btw its called a torque converter. the stall is at what rpm the torque converter fully engages power (in lamens terms).
a 3000 rpm stall is pretty damn noticeable IMO. especially when you're talking about the stall rpm in a truck compared to that. I think our torque converters stall at 1800 rpm? or something like that.

and really the whole reason for getting a torque converter with a higher stall rpm is to reach the desired powerband according to what kind of mods you have. when I do my tr224 ima run a 3k rpm stall cuz the operating range is from 2k+ or so to 6.5k. our stock cams are an idle-5500 rpm range cam. that's why we have such low stall rpms.
you'll definately need a HD tranny cooler to go along with any kind of torque converter. even with a lower stall like 2600 rpm I'd still get a good tranny cooler.

 

that's not necessarily true. the best way really to check stall rpm is to sit at idle and then floor it to accelerate from a standstill. when you floor it the rpms will shoot up to around 1600rpms for a stock truck converter. at 1600 rpms that's where the truck will then start to release full power to the wheels and accelerate.

 

This isn't going to be very accurate. First of all, that happens so quick there is no way to determine where it grabbed.

Second, true stall is the maximum engine rpm attained with the transmission in gear, the brakes locked, and the throttle opened to the highest rpm possible. If you really want to get technical, the only way to really reach a converter's true stall, then you need a trans brake because often times the brakes aren't strong enough to hold it.

If your idea is true, then why is it with the lower stalls can someone drive normally on a daily basis? Wouldn't you keep running into cars? The car doesn't lag until the stall, it still needs a little holding back to stall it.

 

ok thats what i thought a 'stall' did.... so heres a couple more questions:

- how does this affect gas mileage?

- whats it cost? easy install or will i have to pay someone (im car retarded)
-same questions with tranny cooler

- can i launch in 4wd or is that bad for my transfer case or any other part? cuz if so that would give me a huge advantage to make up for the added 4wd weight

 

that makes no sense whatsoever. why would you just keep running into cars?

you are correct about the stall being where the engine rpms ceise to ascend while being at WOT and the transmission output shaft being "locked". this is the point where fluid flowing from the stator into the turbine is at a maximum without spinning the input shaft of the transmission. I really dont know what type of machining is done inside a torque converter with a higher stall, but I'm assuming that the inlets/outlets of the turbine/pump housing are either narrowed/enlargened depending on if they desire a higher or lower stall.

ne ways, my point is that. the "stall" of a torque converter is the rpm in which the engine's torque output reaches a certain level before fully engaging the torque converter's turbine output shaft to the input shaft of the transmission.
I've tried to do as much research as I can right now at work to just get some knowledge out there about the subject. torque converters have many common misconceptions everywhere. I gotta finish up these fire extinguishing skid drawings, then I can do some more reading

 

btw, the higher the stall the more it will effect your mileage around town definately. I really dont know about the highway part. im under the assumption that they'll still lockup at the certain rpm as the stock ones?

cost is around 300-400, and if you're car retarded have someone else install it or get someone that knows how to do it show you how to do it (thats the best way IMO)

launching in 4wd is alright. but unless you're traction impaired I dunno if I'd really do it, just to save my t-case.

 

LOL What I meant was that you wouldn't have very much control over normal driving when you pull out. Every time you pulled out would launch the vehicle and you would just keep running into the car in front of you if you didnt have to use a little brake to stall it.