GMCtrk- those studs look clean, i may have to find me some like that.

 

The part numbers are around here if you search some of GMCtrk's older threads

 

cause im feeling nice, and i happen to have them written down next to me because im getting some soon for my install.. here they are
11589154 stud
11609746 nut
also
12617944 gasket
and thanks for the tip of loosening them when hot, think im gonna cross my fingers and try that, and spray em everyday for a week prior..

 

when I do header swaps . . . I like to have the engine nice and hot. With the manifolds nice and hot, I'll "tap" on the bolts first with a small ball peen hammer, then lightly spray some wd40 on the heads. This shrinks the head bolts some before I take them off.

The y-pipe bolts are another animal. One usually breaks or cracks

 

Thanks man!

 

I fix these broken studs all the time at my shop. Mostly on 5.3 and 6.0. Depending on which stud is broken you can access through the wheel well. I use a set of high quality Sharp Snap-On drill bits. Drill the center out and then use an extractor. It also important to use a good penetrant. I like PB Blaster, it seems to work very well for braking loose stuck and rusted bolts. Once the bolt is out run a tap to clean out the hole. It a crappy job but removing the head is totally not necessary.

 

Update!

 

dont bother with o2 sims.

go to advance auto and get a anti spark plug fouler. get the right size that the o2 will screw into, i forgot i think its the 14mm or 17 or something. take a 1/2 inch drill bit and drill the hole bigger thats in the middle. then screw the o2 in it and screw the fouler onto the exhuast bung. now its reads way less flow and your computer thinks the cats are still on and no wiring BS. my SS has been this way for awhile and my buddys EVO 9 hs had this for 2 years.

EDIT must it will cost is 4 bucks plus the bit if you dont have one.