I know I'm wearing you guys out,but I just want to get as much info as I can...cause come Tuesday I'll be making phone calls trying to get me an engine.
If I have enough money, I might go ahead and do a cam when I get another engine.
What would be a good cam for an LQ4 6.0 running a Whipple. I dont care for it to rev for days but would like to make some good power all the way up to 6000 rpm's if I can.
So cam gurus...throw some ideas at me

 

Depends on what you are looking for from the truck...All street with a tiny burble, or a street strip truck with a nice lope? Since you're going forced induction, I'd get a split pattern cam...a medium setup would be 220/224ish...I'd order it on a 114 LSA with 4* advance on either Thunder Racing lobes or Comp XE. My buddy has the TR220 114 cam in his 5.3L truck and it idles perfectly with no tuning, but you can get away with bigger since the motor will be bigger. Everyone will have a different opinion though.

 

It's my daily driver so that is somthing to consider.I dont want to hate getting in it just to run down to the store,so drivability is an issue.It doesnt have to make huge power over the stock cam,just a nice improvement that will extend the power some.

 

Something to consider when getting a FI cam is to make sure you don't have too much overlap which will bleed pressure. There are several ways to make sure you don't get too much overlap and the one I am most familiar with is increasing LSA. By increasing the LSA you are peaking the curve at a higher RPM but you are able to counteract that by advancing the cam. I would think about getting a cam ground on a 116 LSA and having 4 degrees of advance ground in.

By having the 4 degrees of advance ground in you are bringing the power band down a little to a more useful area ensuring you won't have to wind the motor too far past 6000 to make good power. This is great for a daily driver since you will see gains throughout the curve and you are keeping the curve low enough that you will have no problems keeing the LQ4 together. Look at Parish8 he shifted before 6000 and had one of the fastest trucks period. Shifting that low also helped him keep that 6.0 together.

Also, get a split duration cam to assist the flow on the exhaust side. Forcing air on the intake requires less duration but the increased exhaust duration will help the increased cylinder pressures escape. You are forcing air in under pressure (compressed gas) but the exhaust is being pushed out at atmoshpheric pressure. Think about boyles law, the volume of gas is inversely proportional to its pressure. The exhaust isn't under pressure has more volume and needs more time (duration) to evacuate the chamber.

With that said, there are a few off the shelf cams available but I would recommend a custom grind. It will take a little longer to get it but you can get whatever you want.

Look at the LS6 cam. You can get them with springs from one of the sponsors, Scoggin Dickey, for a very reasonable price.

I just bought a custom ground 212/218 .558/.561 116LSA +4 to run in my Tahoe. I have done the LS1 swap and haven't reinstalled my Whipple yet since I won't put it back on until I have either purchased theirs or built my own intercooler set up.

The best solution would be a custom grind somewhere around a 212/218 .5XX/.5XX 116LSA but the LS6 cam is a good alternative if time and money are issues.