"Free" Mods List
05-26-2009, 04:11 PM
#1
"Free" Mods List
Low-Cost/Free Mods Section
haven't seen a spot up here with these & without researching i would have never known about them myself so figured might make it a little simpler on some of you guys here...and this was not written by me the post was just put together by me to fit us better with the whole truck thing rather than LS1 Camaros & T/A's
Throttle Body Coolant Bypass
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=13
MAF Screen
You CAN remove the MAF screen by gently poking it out from the intake side to the filter side. If you damage any of the three sensing units in the center of the MAF, you will have serious drivability problems and in turn will need a replacement.
There is no actual proven power to be had here. The screen is used to evenly distribute the incoming air across the surface of the sensing element in the MAF. When you remove the screen, tuning it now can be troublesome. You can run the risk of sucking in forgotten tools/ parts (hose clamps) that have been mistakenly left on your air filter during mod install...
IMO, leave the screen on your MAF. The stock MAF sensor is also good up to a considerable HP level, so a 'high performance' replacement is not exactly necessary. Unless you are running some impressive flow #'s.
EGR Mod -Non LS6 intake
If you manually open the throttle, look inside. Where the EGR tube enters the manifold, in back of the throttle body, there will be a portion of the EGR tube protruding into the path of the incoming air. That needs to be chopped. Begin by removing the 10mm bolt that holds the EGR tube into the manifold. (from the top) Be sure to grab the O-ring seal, don't let it get loose int he engine. Pull the EGR tube up and chop the tube below the hat mount ridge. You can use a die-grinder or a dremel, what ever gets the job done. DON'T CUT THE MOUNT! There will be no way to remount the EGR tube if you do!
Once cut, remove the burs and shavings w/ a file or what ever works. Re-install and snug the mounting bolt back. It doesn't have to be insanely tight!
Drill Mod -For Master cyl clutch line.
The slave is buried under the power brake booster. You'll have to snake your hand and arm underneath to get it out (have patience, it CAN be done). Once you get it out, take a roll pin punch and remove the roll pin that retains the braided line to the master. The disconnect the fluid reservoir from the unit. Drain, but do not clean with water! Brake fluid absorbs moisture. You can use brakeclean if you want, but it could stain the plastic.
DRILL MOD
-THE ENTIRE MASTER, RESERVOIR AND LINES MUST BE REMOVED TO PERFORM THIS MOD-
Wrap the master end of the line in an old hose piece to gently hold the master end of the braided line in the vice (looks like a brake bleeder valve. sorry no pic) If you insert the drill bit into the line with your hand you can feel an obstruction in the line. That's what will be drilled out. Use a 7/64" drill bit. The website, www.InstallUniversity.com, says to use an 1/8" drill bit, but I felt it was too big. Gently drill out the obstruction, lifting the drill frequently to remove shavings. Keep the line and drill bit as straight as possible as to not drill through the side of the braided line!
Free Ram Air
*not sure if this will work on truck or not*
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...am_air_mod.htm
Port & Polish Throttle Body
A home-ground throttle body is an easy way to get more air into the Gen. III engine. To perform this procedure, unhook the throttle position sensor (TPS) and idle air control sensor (IAC) connectors from the throttle body. The throttle cable and coolant hoses are removed also, then the three 10mm bolts holding the throttle body were removed.
The TB was taken to a workbench and mounted in a vise; a carbide bit and some 80- and 120-grit paper rolls were waiting for it. Porting the Gen. III's throttle body is done to remove a restrictive ridge in front of the throttle blade and to generally make the contours smooth. You want to take out the turbulence and increase velocity, but don't go hog-wild because the carbide bit can burn through pretty quickly. Use the 80-grit to smooth out the carbide burr cuts, and the 120-grit to polish the throttle body smooth.
Any sharp edge on the throttle body should be buffed down.
don't do heavy porting in the idle air bypass area--that will force air into this spot that doesn't need any more.
Mild port work is performed on the back side as well, and the throttle blade screws are ground down. Once the TB is cleaned up, it is ready for reinstallation.
haven't seen a spot up here with these & without researching i would have never known about them myself so figured might make it a little simpler on some of you guys here...and this was not written by me the post was just put together by me to fit us better with the whole truck thing rather than LS1 Camaros & T/A's
Throttle Body Coolant Bypass
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=13
MAF Screen
You CAN remove the MAF screen by gently poking it out from the intake side to the filter side. If you damage any of the three sensing units in the center of the MAF, you will have serious drivability problems and in turn will need a replacement.
There is no actual proven power to be had here. The screen is used to evenly distribute the incoming air across the surface of the sensing element in the MAF. When you remove the screen, tuning it now can be troublesome. You can run the risk of sucking in forgotten tools/ parts (hose clamps) that have been mistakenly left on your air filter during mod install...
IMO, leave the screen on your MAF. The stock MAF sensor is also good up to a considerable HP level, so a 'high performance' replacement is not exactly necessary. Unless you are running some impressive flow #'s.
EGR Mod -Non LS6 intake
If you manually open the throttle, look inside. Where the EGR tube enters the manifold, in back of the throttle body, there will be a portion of the EGR tube protruding into the path of the incoming air. That needs to be chopped. Begin by removing the 10mm bolt that holds the EGR tube into the manifold. (from the top) Be sure to grab the O-ring seal, don't let it get loose int he engine. Pull the EGR tube up and chop the tube below the hat mount ridge. You can use a die-grinder or a dremel, what ever gets the job done. DON'T CUT THE MOUNT! There will be no way to remount the EGR tube if you do!
Once cut, remove the burs and shavings w/ a file or what ever works. Re-install and snug the mounting bolt back. It doesn't have to be insanely tight!
Drill Mod -For Master cyl clutch line.
The slave is buried under the power brake booster. You'll have to snake your hand and arm underneath to get it out (have patience, it CAN be done). Once you get it out, take a roll pin punch and remove the roll pin that retains the braided line to the master. The disconnect the fluid reservoir from the unit. Drain, but do not clean with water! Brake fluid absorbs moisture. You can use brakeclean if you want, but it could stain the plastic.
DRILL MOD
-THE ENTIRE MASTER, RESERVOIR AND LINES MUST BE REMOVED TO PERFORM THIS MOD-
Wrap the master end of the line in an old hose piece to gently hold the master end of the braided line in the vice (looks like a brake bleeder valve. sorry no pic) If you insert the drill bit into the line with your hand you can feel an obstruction in the line. That's what will be drilled out. Use a 7/64" drill bit. The website, www.InstallUniversity.com, says to use an 1/8" drill bit, but I felt it was too big. Gently drill out the obstruction, lifting the drill frequently to remove shavings. Keep the line and drill bit as straight as possible as to not drill through the side of the braided line!
Free Ram Air
*not sure if this will work on truck or not*
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...am_air_mod.htm
Port & Polish Throttle Body
A home-ground throttle body is an easy way to get more air into the Gen. III engine. To perform this procedure, unhook the throttle position sensor (TPS) and idle air control sensor (IAC) connectors from the throttle body. The throttle cable and coolant hoses are removed also, then the three 10mm bolts holding the throttle body were removed.
The TB was taken to a workbench and mounted in a vise; a carbide bit and some 80- and 120-grit paper rolls were waiting for it. Porting the Gen. III's throttle body is done to remove a restrictive ridge in front of the throttle blade and to generally make the contours smooth. You want to take out the turbulence and increase velocity, but don't go hog-wild because the carbide bit can burn through pretty quickly. Use the 80-grit to smooth out the carbide burr cuts, and the 120-grit to polish the throttle body smooth.
Any sharp edge on the throttle body should be buffed down.
don't do heavy porting in the idle air bypass area--that will force air into this spot that doesn't need any more.
Mild port work is performed on the back side as well, and the throttle blade screws are ground down. Once the TB is cleaned up, it is ready for reinstallation.
05-26-2009, 04:42 PM
#2
I've always been curious to know if someone has done this. There is a process called Heat Sink Lapping that you can do on your PC's heatsink to make sure it is getting as much contact to your processor as possible.
You use 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000 grit sand paper and 10,000 grit mirror finish polishing compound. By the time you are finished polishing the heatsink it looks like a mirror.
I was wondering if this process has ever been performed on a TB rather than using a dremel and risking putting nicks in it. Just seems like a safer method for the average person that doesn't want to risk accidently going too deep.
http://www.thetechlounge.com/article/17/
You use 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000 grit sand paper and 10,000 grit mirror finish polishing compound. By the time you are finished polishing the heatsink it looks like a mirror.
I was wondering if this process has ever been performed on a TB rather than using a dremel and risking putting nicks in it. Just seems like a safer method for the average person that doesn't want to risk accidently going too deep.
http://www.thetechlounge.com/article/17/
05-26-2009, 06:28 PM
#3
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would like to see some supporting dyno runs to see if any of these mods do anything other than waste time. IMO i dont see any gains in shaving a few tenths of a % from the TB opening or shaft that holds that butterfly. and polishing the heatsink, just use some super silver paste that computer guys use to get better heat transfer, or mount a small fan on the heatsink if you are worried about t getting too hot. also has anyone done any flow test on a stock TB to see how much air it can flow?
all i can see is maybe better throttle response
05-26-2009, 09:44 PM
#6
P&P on the throttle body DOES improve throttle response. After doing it you have to wait for the PCM to do Idle correction because the air is coming in less restricted.
I wasn't asking advice for my Heatsink, I'm fully aware on how to keep my CPU cool. I was simply describing a technique used and asking if it would apply on the TB since I'm not comfortable taking a dremel to it myself. shaving too much of nicking the tb trashes it if your too close to the butterfly.
I wasn't asking advice for my Heatsink, I'm fully aware on how to keep my CPU cool. I was simply describing a technique used and asking if it would apply on the TB since I'm not comfortable taking a dremel to it myself. shaving too much of nicking the tb trashes it if your too close to the butterfly.
05-26-2009, 09:56 PM
#7
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guess i didnt get what you were saying about the heatsink and was just suggesting something. anyhow good luck and i think it may be more of a placebo effect on the throttle response, if it works then great.
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05-27-2009, 07:01 AM
#8
Dyno #'s are in the throttle body bypass link...that is a how-to from a magazine & on their camaro they gained somethin like 5hp just from the TB bypass and that's the great thing about these mods you don't think that you will really gain anything because it's so simple but really you do...you can feel the difference
05-27-2009, 07:16 PM
#9
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most of the time when you can feel the difference, like with the TB spacers, it cuz you are giving up a little somewhere to make it feel like you are gaining. but the TB by pass prolly works well
05-27-2009, 09:20 PM
#10
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I'm sure with the porting and polishing you could use only sandpaper. I don't think you will get very far with 600 grit but I get what you saying (progressively heading toward a finer grit).