Wow, the Fed-Ex man actually got here early today. Got my Flex-A-Lite 282's today, Thanks, SuperSportTruck. Man I can't wait to get them and my ASP Pulley installed. I have been waiting for a while. Can I go home from work early? Hmmmm., I wonder.

 

Make sure they came with the new style fuse holder

 

Definitly do that

 

Here's a tip for removing the factory pulley. Once you have the stock bolt out you can put a L A R G E allen head cap screw in the bolt hole with a couple of big flat washer under the head of the allen head cap screw to help center the threaded puller rod as you remove the pulley. The O.D. of the allen head cap screw should be just slightly smaller than the I.D. of the crank bolt. The puller threaded rod seats itself in the place where you would put the allen wrench to install or remove the allen head cap screw. I've used this big allen head cap screw method numerous times and it really helps. Some guys have posted nightmare questions like "How do I get the puller rod out of the crankshaft. I think I've damaged the bolt threads in the crank"? This after they tried to remove the pulley by bucking the puller rod directly against the crankshft bolt threads and the puller rod found its' way into the bolt threads. After sufficient torque was applied they could'nt get the the pulley off of the crank OR the puller rod out of the crank threads. Not a pretty picture. Using the allen head cap screw will eliminate the need for you to ask that question. I believe you will find the ASP pulley to be a good investment relative to the cost. I have two Silverados and they both have ASP pulleys. Don't forget to use a 120mmX16mmX2mm bolt to get the new ASP pulley started onto the crank. I would use the longer bolt to seat the ASP pulley and then install a new factory bolt after the ASP pulley bucks up against the sprocket that drives the cam chain and oil pump. When the ASP pulley and the sprocket kiss the torque value required to turn the bolt goes to MAX.