Well, I have been in the performance industry specifically engine building for about 17 years or so and I have built quite a few nice projects that I am pretty proud of. I am sorry to say that I do not have a degree in engineering I work off of real word knowledge, not school taught BS. I am afraid I have not done any thermal analysis on any rotors in my life, nor do I plan on it. Kind of sounds boring to me. I think you need to get back to studying now, there are finals at Wyotech tomorrow right? Before you challenge someone’s intelligence or knowledge it is a good idea to know who you are dealing with, I am pretty sure who my opponent is. I will now sign off from this post, you are boring me with your cut and paste tactics and constant ranting and carrying on about this topic. Bottom line here is they work. There is data to prove just about any point out there about any topic. Remember that.

 

Funny that you mention Wyotech Brian, the UTI guys are the same way "on paper it runs 10's, what? in real life, oh well, it runs 16's..."

 

Not puttin down their program, I think it is a great deal.

 

Wow, guess I missed this one. There does seem to be some good info on this. Id like to hear Hitman's ideas. I know Baer's Eradispeed +1 is supposed to drop stopping distances significantly. Is this simply from the larger rotor?? I think they are CD and slotted though. Would it be better to just go with stock sized powerslots and hawk pads?? You cant tell me that the setup we have stock is the end of the road.

 

Dude...do you have Snap-on branded on your forehead?? Seriously...school taught bs??this is what our world works on.. physics, thermodynamics, mechanics, and engineering materials..You will not i repeat you will NOT gain braking power from crossdrilled rotors. if anyone was intelligent enough to read the FAQ's that Trey28 put up from a company that produces these rotors no where in there did it say anything about CD-ed rotors enhancing braking, only helping vent gas. in order to enhance braking force you must encrease the size of your rotor when going to Cross drilled. You are losing surface area at a greater rate than you are dissapating heat. Therefore in order to still have the same surface area for breaking and less heat you must increase rotor size. Please try to tell me I am wrong. All i do everyday is test rotors and pads. so if you think you are more informed than myself in braking theory, please speak now or stop being ignorant.

 

This is all assuming your stock system is fine.

Mine is not. My stock rotors heat up too quick and the proof is in the warping

(BTW - Who the **** are you? You might want to get more than 1 post before you come over here trying to be billy badass? Go away n00b )

 

btw ..what is the UTI and wyotech stuff you guys are talking about...last time i looked they werent in the top 5 engineering schools in the nation..but if you guys wanna believe everything you learn in college is Bs, i am among fools. Or just under-water basket weaving majors.

 

I have the miracle cure for you...dont slam on your brakes doing 80, and dopnt wait 20 feet before a red light to start braking, i am running stock rotors on my truck which weigh just as much as yours. I have not had a warped rotor yet.

 

Dont tell me how to drive moron. I change my truck to MY driving habbits not the other way around. I can tell by your kinda thinking you are ***-backwards in more than one way. We are talkn about performance

Take your 2 posts and shove em

 

hey its another dumbass with ***** cuz hes typing to a screen name...im sorry you drive like a moron..buuut thats why you have a bowtie on your truck right??