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Now I need to find heater hose numbers as well as the little cooling system hose that goes from the front of one head over to the front of the other head.
The one heater core hose are in the first diagram. They are labeled radiator surge tank hose because they go to both things, look at how they have the quick connect fittings on the one end.
For some reason the link doesn't work, just keeps closing the window. I dug in though and see the part you found is Dorman 47157 -
And yeah, with that you could just get bulk heater hose and make up your own set, other than the quick connect at the heater core end.
It would help solve this problem I ran into today while replacing the water pump on my '06 SS, one of those stupid crimped plastic ring clamps split even though I was super careful with the hoses, had already moved the spring clamp and used a hose pick to loosen the hose on the pump. If I wanna be honest the hose assembly is due to be replaced anyway as they're old, but they still seem good, so I threw a worm gear clamp on that end for now. GMT800's use pretty much that same setup..
That tee you guys posted is going to be handy. That OEM replacement tee with the cramped hose assembly was like $75 a few years ago. Probably higher now.
Not sure on the GMT900s, but the GMT800s with the rear heater tee quick connects at the firewall can also fail. Had that happen on my 06 Suburban.
My 99 Silverado also had those break, but you can remove the plastic quick connects and hook up the rubber hose directly to the aluminum heater tubing with hose clamps.
I replaced that assembly on my wife's SS a couple years ago. The particular one for a 2006 where it has the crimped tee by the water pump, and a quick connect at the heater core end, is currently $95 at Rock. Can't remember what it cost when I did it but it seemed like it was a tiny bit cheaper then.
Can't imagine trying to get in at the firewall with a regular hose and clamp, surely it's possible, but man it's tight in there. I barely had room to get the quick connect tool in there to remove the old hose assembly without disturbing the single hose next to it. Didn't want a chain reaction of broken crap to follow, as it often does.
Hers was leaking at the tee where the crimps are. I could have used the Dorman part here with the original hoses (or new bulk hose) or even just worm gear clamped the tee and been done with it, but this being the wife's truck, I worried she may not notice if it began leaking again and didn't want to risk her overheating it so I sprung for the new hose assembly.
Like I said tight fit getting in there with the disconnect tool..
I've started to call this truck Ol' Drippy because it's always leaking something. Thermostat housing, windshield washer pump, then the washer bottle, heater hose assembly, water pump, and pretty soon I'll need to do the oil cooler lines.